Tiling around a slightly un level bath

[Rickm34]

Thanks all - so plan is to find the horizontal centre and vertical centre using a gauge stick to work out cuts. Strike a level line less than a full tile height to account for the unlevel bath on the bottom row. Fix horizontal batton and tile the rest then do the bottom row cuts last

Does this sound about right ??

Naive question but is it best to work one wall at a time?
I am going to do the tiles brickwork style in terms of positioning, any tips as in ensuring the grout lines between the 3 walls line up. thanks guys

Put a level line round all three walls as well as vertical line on main bath wall centred . And work exact to the line. I find it easier completing a wall at a time with brickbond. key is keeping to your lines. 1 mm out and your joints will start opening or closing up. Remember to measure the the centre of a tile for your next row. So its exact. Then keep measuring the centre of the tile for your next row. If that makes sense. You can also put a vertical line on either end so it runs up the edge of the bath. Agin if you keep to lines your joints will meet unless your tiles are slightly different sizes in that case you may have to do some twiddling with the spacers

 

[rufus the tiler]

level batten between half and 3 quarters of tile height(depending how tiles fall at ceiling) then tile up and when set take off batten and tile down to bath....this is the correct way.

 

[SJPurdy]

Whatever your set out ends up there are three horizontal surfaces to consider:
1. the top of the bath,
2. the ceiling and
3. the floor or top of skirting below the basin (assuming the tiling goes down this low below the basin).
(4. if the tiles are to tuck under the end of the bath also consider this).

First of all check that your spirit level is working correctly (most sold are out in my opinion). place it on a surface that reads level and then lift the level and replace it the other way round - if your level is good it will read level again; if the bubble is now off centre then that is the inaccuracy in your level. (anyone buying a level should do this in the shop before purchasing, you will probably reject a dozen before finding one that is accurate!).

With a working level I would then find the lowest point in the bath top and mark the wall 1 tile plus about 3mm (silicone joint) up from this point. I would then extend this line around all three walls. Using a tape measure or gauge staff I would then check what the cuts to all parts of the ceiling and down to the floor/skirting would be if this was the line equivalent to the top of a tile. I would also check how much if any needed to be cut of this "bottom" tile to fit in along other parts of the bath top. Note that if a few mm need to be trimmed from some of the tiles over the bath top it will be easier and quicker to drop the line and cut a cm or more off them all. Likewise if the cuts to the ceiling are aesthetically to small then reduce the size of the tile over the bath to make them larger. The cut above the bath needs to be as large as possible (its the most vulnerable wet area) but balanced with the other cuts to give a pleasing overall appearance. With all this info (if necessary) mark a new line below the first test line which will be the top of the first row of cuts above the bath.

Personally I would cut and fit this first row (packed up off the bath top) and then fit the rest of the wall. Alternatively fix a batten to the wall/line and then tile the wall above; when set remove the batten and cut and fit the tiles below.

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

there s no bath that cant be leveled you do no we have put a man on the moon all bath s have a justment on the feet .the bracket that hold them to the wall allow you to move them up to level in tiling we all learn a lot
of other jobs along the way that make our jobs a lot quicker so dont waste your time learn how to level a bath and move on

 

[WetSaw]

I find that most baths and shower trays are rarely flat anyway whether you get them level or not!!

 

[LM]

Most of the cheap crap I have to work too in new builds are like bananas, level at the two ends and internals and they could be out as much as 5-7mm in the middle

 

[rufus the tiler]

I find that most baths and shower trays are rarely flat anyway whether you get them level or not!!

bang on

 

[rufus the tiler]

Whatever your set out ends up there are three horizontal surfaces to consider:
1. the top of the bath,
2. the ceiling and
3. the floor or top of skirting below the basin (assuming the tiling goes down this low below the basin).
(4. if the tiles are to tuck under the end of the bath also consider this).

First of all check that your spirit level is working correctly (most sold are out in my opinion). place it on a surface that reads level and then lift the level and replace it the other way round - if your level is good it will read level again; if the bubble is now off centre then that is the inaccuracy in your level. (anyone buying a level should do this in the shop before purchasing, you will probably reject a dozen before finding one that is accurate!).

With a working level I would then find the lowest point in the bath top and mark the wall 1 tile plus about 3mm (silicone joint) up from this point. I would then extend this line around all three walls. Using a tape measure or gauge staff I would then check what the cuts to all parts of the ceiling and down to the floor/skirting would be if this was the line equivalent to the top of a tile. I would also check how much if any needed to be cut of this "bottom" tile to fit in along other parts of the bath top. Note that if a few mm need to be trimmed from some of the tiles over the bath top it will be easier and quicker to drop the line and cut a cm or more off them all. Likewise if the cuts to the ceiling are aesthetically to small then reduce the size of the tile over the bath to make them larger. The cut above the bath needs to be as large as possible (its the most vulnerable wet area) but balanced with the other cuts to give a pleasing overall appearance. With all this info (if necessary) mark a new line below the first test line which will be the top of the first row of cuts above the bath.

Personally I would cut and fit this first row (packed up off the bath top) and then fit the rest of the wall. Alternatively fix a batten to the wall/line and then tile the wall above; when set remove the batten and cut and fit the tiles below.

 

[rufus the tiler]

If you measure up from the lowest part of the bath size of a tile and add 3mm silicone joint and the bath starts to rise slightly you will be left with the annoying task of having to shave tiles with grinder or wet cutter ....best if possible to try and leave a cut that is achievable on the manual cutter.

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

Most of the cheap crap I have to work too in new builds are like bananas, level at the two ends and internals and they could be out as much as 5-7mm in the middle

you should tile level from end to end if there a 7 mm gap in the middle call back the people who supplied the bath and ask them them to explain its there problem not yours .dont make it yours and let them get away with it .or the next time you will be to dealing with 10 to 12 mm give them an inch they will take a mile show there sh45t for what it is .or be a mug all your working life