Tanking ….to get you started

[wetdec]

Before you begin you need to understand what you’re doing. When you tank a room you are effectively trying to prevent water escaping and causing damage to other parts of your property. This could be damage to ground floor ceilings where water has found its way through or damp into screeds causing floor covering damage. You are trying to incorporate a waterproof layer under your tiles………

There are differing ways to create this layer the most popular being:

• to roller or paint a rubberoid or acrylic coating such as Bal WP1 or Mapeigum over the area to be sealed, this system should be applied to dry backgrounds at a thickness of 1-2mm (poss 2 coats) and takes 24 hours to dry. On floors subject to deflection (eg wood flooring) then a reinforced layer must be added.
• to actually incorporate a mat / membrane such as Durabase WP or Homelux waterproof membrane into the tiling process. The area to be waterproofed is spread with your flexible adhesive and the membrane stuck over the top (as you would wallpaper).overlapping the joints. This type of membrane can be tiled with no waiting time and is the most time saving and straight forward to use

As well as the bigger areas any joints between walls and floors and corners in the shower area will need making waterproof as these points can often crack. This is done by way of a tape which is bonder into the angle creating a flexible seal. There are various tapes available but one with a width of around 150mm with a flexible central strip are good practice.

This is a brief explanation which I hope goes a little way to explaining the popular tanking options. If you have any questions I can be contacted through the forum, or through wetdecs

 

[cornish_crofter]

Thanks for that.

Could you give your view on the use of products such as Aqua panel, hardibacker on walls or floors please.

Would you use these with or without extra tanking? I ask because there are other forums that give conflicting advice.

 

[BizzieTiling]

Thank you for your guide to tanking - I wish I had read it 2 weeks ago!

I am looking for comfort that I did not make a huge mistake! I tanked the room before tiling with big travertine stone tiles. Unfortunately I overdid the tanking and under-read the technical data. On the Bal WP1 tub I read the section saying you can bed the membrane into it (paint on WP1, bed in the membrane, paint on more WP1) and I did this up the walls. Only after finishing the tiling did I re-read the technical data which said that you need a cementitious adhesive/screed between the tiler backing board and the WP1 (not just the ADP Primer) AND on reflection thought it would have been better simply to stick the membrane to the wall with adhesive (no need actually for WP1). So, now I am having nightmares about the tiles falling off the wall (or rather the membrane slowly being dragged away from the wall by the tiles). Can you give me any comfort to stop the nightmares? Please!

 

[Algernon]

Just wanted to say thanks to wetdec for his time helping me with offline questions about how to go about creating a wetroom. The guy has the patience of a saint!

Algie

 

[GrantC]

Just want to say thanks wetdec as a newbie to tiling its good to have technical issues explained simply helps the grey matter soak it up easier.
:hurray:

 

[stevee]

i like to second that ,wetdec and the other masters mass of knowledge and willingness to pas it on will no doubt help me and other newbies to tiling immensely. many thanks for your time,steve

 

[NeillJor]

Before you begin you need to understand what you’re doing. When you tank a room you are effectively trying to prevent water escaping and causing damage to other parts of your property. This could be damage to ground floor ceilings where water has found its way through or damp into screeds causing floor covering damage. You are trying to incorporate a waterproof layer under your tiles………


There are differing ways to create this layer the most popular being:

• to roller or paint a rubberoid or acrylic coating such as Bal WP1 or Mapeigum over the area to be sealed, this system should be applied to dry backgrounds at a thickness of 1-2mm (poss 2 coats) and takes 24 hours to dry. On floors subject to deflection (eg wood flooring) then a reinforced layer must be added.
• to actually incorporate a mat / membrane such as Durabase WP or Homelux waterproof membrane into the tiling process. The area to be waterproofed is spread with your flexible adhesive and the membrane stuck over the top (as you would wallpaper).overlapping the joints. This type of membrane can be tiled with no waiting time and is the most time saving and straight forward to use

As well as the bigger areas any joints between walls and floors and corners in the shower area will need making waterproof as these points can often crack. This is done by way of a tape which is bonder into the angle creating a flexible seal. There are various tapes available but one with a width of around 150mm with a flexible central strip are good practice.

This is a brief explanation which I hope goes a little way to explaining the popular tanking options. If you have any questions I can be contacted through the forum, or through wetdecs

Many thanks for your useful advice and explanation of this process

 

[larryp7639]

i like to second that ,wetdec and the other masters mass of knowledge and willingness to pas it on will no doubt help me and other newbies to tiling immensely. many thanks for your time,steve

me too 😀

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