My 1st Job Shower bath tiling preparation: plaster and wooden windowsill - TilersForums.com

[A SMITH]

I'd appreciate your suggestions on preparation for tiling over my bath.

Photo shows the old bath. The new bath will be in by the end of the week. The soil pipe will be boxed in to the width of the bath using Aquapanel, and a mixer shower and concealed bath valves will be attached to it.

All three walls surrounding the bath, and around the window, will be tiled (DIY) with 75x150mm "farmhouse" ceramic tiles, 9mm thick, from the tub up to the ceiling. The wall at the head of the bath will only be tiled to the width of the bath.

The old skim plaster is mostly still OK. There are a few patches where I've removed loose skim plaster. Some paint and tile adhesive from the 70s remains over the bath.

The windowsill is solid wood.

I'd like to start the tiling in the middle of next week at the latest, so I'm hoping I won't need to do anything that takes ages to dry.

So my question is what should I do to prepare this mess for tiling - board the walls with Aquapanel or something? Tank the plaster directly? Some other solution?

 

[Qwerty]

Remove all paint and old adhesive using a 4" blade scraper. Remove any loose plaster and ensure the wall is reasonably flat.

That wooden window board is in the shower zone and destined to rot. Look to remove the window board and replace with a waterproof board and tank all shower walls. Avoid aquapanel as it is water resistant, not waterproof. This goes for the soil pipe also.

 

[WetSaw]

The soil pipe is waterproof surely?

 

[Qwerty]

The soil pipe is waterproof surely?

Hahaha, Yes, but the wall behind it, the batons and the floor beneath it isn't. Unless you know different? I was of course referring to the soil pipe boxing in my first post!!!

 

[WetSaw]

My sarcasm gene has a mind of its own..

 

[A SMITH]

Thanks for this. Surely tanked aquapanel is as waterproof as tanked plaster, though?

What's the more-waterproof alternative?

 

[Qwerty]

It is, but only you can decide if the walls require overboarding of not. My advice would be to use normal plasterboard in the corner over the soil pipe and tank everything. Cheaper, easier to purchase and will be just as water tight (if done correctly)

 

[Kevbos]

The room is not a wet room .does not need tanking .unless you have a solution to bridge it onto bath. Where it leaks .just make sure tiles are stuck with good adhesive .and grouped well .and silicone all joints internal etc in wet areas .then look after the tiles and silicone. Nothing lasts forever .

 

[Kevbos]

Most leaks are around bath or shower tray edges .or from pipes etc leaking .

 

[Tile Shop]

The room is not a wet room .does not need tanking .unless you have a solution to bridge it onto bath. Where it leaks .just make sure tiles are stuck with good adhesive .and grouped well .and silicone all joints internal etc in wet areas .then look after the tiles and silicone. Nothing lasts forever .

This has got to be a joke, right? Using your method, damn right it won't last forever!

Grout is not waterproof (unless you insist on using epoxy), adhesive is not waterproof no matter how "good" it is, plaster and plasterboard also not waterproof. And you're advising not to tank it??? Moisture will still be getting to the background no matter how much silicone you put on the internals!

The only difference between this and a wet-room is the base. Its still an intermittent wet area. Water is still hitting the walls. There is still a high level of humidity and condensation. Its not all about leaks, there should be as much care in protecting the substrates as there is in filling in the gaps. Stop giving bad advise. You'll be telling him to spot fix it next!

@A SMITH , stick with the advise from @Plan Tec Tiling and if anyone tells you not to tank it, ignore them.