No spacers

[tileman2]

Hi, Just been to view a job and the tiles are approx 8"x6" and are a sort of mosaic effect approx 9 mosaic tiles on this one tile with grout lines if that makes sense.

The guy has said the bloke in the tile shop said that they are to be fitted without spacers and only to apply grout where the tiles meet.

The tiles are ceramic

Has anyone else come across this before, and is it fairly straight forward to do

Regards

Kevin

 

[Dan]

I've tiled with similar tiles. If they have glazed over the 'fake' grout joints then you do only need to grout the edges, some I've seen are not glazed in the fake joints so grout will hold in there long-term.

I'd be a bit sceptical about not using a spacer though. BS says you have to for one, and for another, you'll probably find the tiles have a tolerance in size, so it could be a pain in the bum to get them all flush, plumb and level without a spacer to help you.

I'd size-up a few tiles and see if you can get away with a 2mm spacer. If you can't, maybe even just some small bits of card from the tile boxes just to help you when you get a tile that's a bit off square or whatever. But I'd certainly avoid butting them all up fully, that can lead to a maul of a job if you start going out of line.

 

[tileman2]

I'd be a bit sceptical about not using a spacer though. BS says you have to for one, and for another, you'll probably find the tiles have a tolerance in size, so it could be a pain in the bum to get them all flush, plumb and level without a spacer to help you.

I'd size-up a few tiles and see if you can get away with a 2mm spacer. If you can't, maybe even just some small bits of card from the tile boxes just to help you when you get a tile that's a bit off square or whatever. But I'd certainly avoid butting them all up fully, that can lead to a maul of a job if you start going out of line.

Thanks Dan for the swift reply

I've tiled with similar tiles. If they have glazed over the 'fake' grout joints then you do only need to grout the edges, some I've seen are not glazed in the fake joints so grout will hold in there long-term.

How would you apply the grout only to the edges

Would you reccomend a 1mm spacer or stick to 2mm as i was going to use a 2mm until he mentioned it.

Youre quite right it probably would lead to problems ie alignment

Regards

Kev

 

[Concept PHT]

I fixed the same tiles in my kitchen ages ago on a house I renovated. I used a very small space inbetween the tiles and grouted all over. No problems at all 🙂

 

[tileman2]

Concept, So did you use a spacer or not, surely a 1mm spacer shouldnt make too much difference but will keep tiles profiled

Regards

Kevin

 

[tileman2]

A Similar tile is attached

 

[Leatherface]

1 mm space is best

 

[CON5933]

I had these a few weeks ago, apparently 'Made in England' so you don't need spacers??
I rigged a pce of plaster board up at home and put a few up with spacers and without, the point of them being a 'mosaic' design i imagine is that your not supposed to see the individual tile, Once grouted with the spacer I could see it but without the spacer it looked like a proper job(ish)

Maybe you could explain to the customer that without spacers you don't have any leeway for 'running out' therefore the job could become more difficult... adjust price accordingly.

 

[Dan]

Thanks Dan for the swift reply
How would you apply the grout only to the edges

If the fake joints are glazed, when you apply the grout all over (trying to not grout the fake's the best you can) you will still be able to sponge the grout off the glazed fake tile joint but you'll have a hard job of getting grout out of the real grout joint. So it's just a bit of time that's all, keep your grout pretty damp so it doesn't become stiff too quickly on the fake joints.

You could use a standard grout with a flexi-admix in it to get the grout stick to the glazed joints if you wanted. But it will also stick to the tile face too so it becomes a job and a half to try and get the tile clean again, as it always is when you stick an admix in your grout.

I suppose it depends on how the fake tile joints look, if they are not too deep then getting grout to stay in them all long-term would be a task, and you don't want to get called back every year to re-grout bits.

I'd try and not grout them personally. And use at least a 1mm spacer or cardboard. It's bloody risky not using a spacer at all though, no margin for error, and even you level has a tolerance.

 

[Dan]

A Similar tile is attached

See, that looks grouted to me, so I'd just grout the real joints on that one.

 

[Concept PHT]

Yes I used a spacer. 1mm. 🙂

 

[L & R CERAMICS]

whats a spacer!!!!!!!!

 

[tileman2]

The bloke was told by a guy in topps tiles that no spacer is required, Ill suggest a 1mm spacer is needed to help alignment see what he says.

 

[L & R CERAMICS]

if you are good enough you shouldnt need spacers but if the tiles are differnt sizes then you should use them but if you can use card you should be ok to get over variations in sizes

 

[trevortine]

Ive done these before and used a mix of 1mm spacers and tile wedges which allow you to compensate for the tolerance in the tile.

 

[Concept PHT]

There is a guy in Topps by me that has never laid a tile in his life... nuff said 😉

 

[tjsmiler]

Mate, get yourself some 1mm spacers and a pack of tile wedges

Set out as per normal and then start tiling using your spacers, every so often put your spirit level across the top of the tiles and make sure it's all plum and that all the topps of tiles are touching the bottom of your spirit level. Where you notice slight differences in width of grout line (or where the top of your tile does not touch the bottom of your spirit level) adjust accordingly using your wedges to find a happy medium.

Different sized tiles are a real pain so Sometimes you just have to find a compromise so that all the grout lines look as near as possible and this is where the wedges are so usefull as you can push them in and out accordingly.

Good luck :wink_smile:

 

[tileman2]

tjsmiler

Spot on bud with your comments, Although as far as im aware all tiles are exactly the same size (hopefully as it will save a lot of chew).

As im tiling above a kitchen worktop, ill obviously get centre plumbed then set out from this line ensuring decent cuts on corners/sockets and adjust accordingly.

Im planning on working from centre across to the left then over to the right towards corner.

Would you start anywhere different.

Regards

Kev