How to tile round 'L' shaped rad valves?

[dingabell]

Tiling a bathroom which has rad valves which come out of the wall a couple of inches then turn upwards in an 'L' shape if that makes sense? Can't really figure how to tile round these without slotting the tile and putting the piece back in, or starting a tile halfway up the pipe which comes out of the wall. This would mean cutting a semi circle out of the top of one tile and the bottom of another, which would look cleaner but might not work with the rest of the walls? How have you all done it?

 

[Ian]

Getting a grout line to land on them is the easiest way , like you say though, how will that affect the rest of the room. Other option is to remove the valves and slide the tile over after coring a hole in it.

 

[John Benton]

I've had these before and I get the plumber to just leave the tails pointing out of the wall longer than required and get them to solder a 15mm end cap on. I then drill the tile and slot it over and fix to wall. Plumber then comes back and cuts pipe to length and fits valve on.

It means that the system has to be drained down a couple of times but it means you don't have to slot tiles. As Bri says getting a grout joint is easiest but it is dictated by too many factors for that fall nicely every time.

 

[dingabell]

No chance the plumber will be back to help out, and the holes would have to be so big to get the tile over the valves that it wouldn't get covered by the radiator collars. I'll have a look how the grout line works out tomorrow but I've just remembered there are two rads on opposite walls with the same bloody pipes. What are the chances that they've been installed at exactly the same height? None I'd say. Will have a chat to the customer and see what he wants me to do? Just wondered if there was stunningly simple solution that I'd overlooked?

 

[John Benton]

Nothing is simple once a plumber's had his 2p's worth!!!

 

[cam_low]

plumbers are the bain of my life. lost three days so far on this job...

 

[Stef]

Only other option is to split the tile straight up the middle behind the tails & fit in place once you have cut your notch.
It's a lot neater looking than a grout line.
It depends on the tile & the grout colour though.

 

[CJ]

As above.
It is the only way if the plumber won't/can't just leave a tail.

Best of a bad job......then talk customer into getting rad covers. :smilewinkgrin:

 

[Bathfix Bob]

Remove valve and drill hole through tile, everything else is a bodge.

 

[Dougs Third Go]

pipe collars won't cover a bodge, plumber has to come back and sold pipe caps on, slits and in-filled tiles aren't acceptable imo.

 

[Andy Allen]

the op just said the plumber wont come back..??

so what then just leave the tile out..

like others have said you have to make the best out of a bad job, try working it on a grout joint vertical or horizontal or split the tile........but make sure you explain to the customer its the plumbers fault for not leaving the job ready for tiling..

 

[IHB]

If it can't be removed then remember if the valves fit tight to the radiator then the tile above the valve will be hidden when the radiator's fitted. Any cut outs above the valve should be hidden.

 

[stusgsx]

Learn a bit of plumbing then charge them to remove and refit valves. That's what I do ;-)

 

[thompsonbrown]

Plumbing a towel rail using elbows is not a way I would install a towel rail.
However slagging of the plumber for not coming back, is a bit unfair without knowing all the circumstances about the job. Splitting a tile through the drilled hole would look the best in my opinion.

 

[Qwerty]

I don't think they are elbows, but L shaped valves

 

[beanz]

Don't you know a plumber, that could come and remove the rads for you? Then put them back on when you're done? Obviously you'd have to add that to your price... In all fairness to the plumber, it's not really his problem. If the customer won't wear the expense, you'll just have to slot them. If you go down that route, don't re-use the bit you cut out, cut new pieces, and get them tight. It'll be less noticeable.

 

[Chalker]

Plumber should have left them capped so you cold tile.

 

[Andy Allen]

its always the plumbers fault......:lol:

 

[lizzardtong]

draining system its easy. to avoid draining and filling few times i do install if possible valves outside bathroom. so once tiling its finished and radiator its fitted i just open valves bleed air and depend on the system thats it. simple

 

[pete f]

its just rough work by the plumber they should be capped off for you then he can do what he wants with his joints when he re fits the rads

 

[lizzardtong]

its just rough work by the plumber they should be capped off for you then he can do what he wants with his joints when he re fits the rads

yes and no. he did his work. end of the line.

 

[Kyle87]

First off I'm a plumber!!!! Don't start throwing rotten veg at me lol

To say it's the plumbers fault isn't fair unless we know that for sure. If customer won't pay for the extra visit then it's the customers fault.

Not every tradesman can make multiple visits and this should be discussed before hand.

I always try to accommodate for other trades. I even keep a spare tap in the van so when I rip out a bathroom the tilers and plasterers can still use water in that room for adhesives etc.

Someone mentioned putting valves outside the room and then putting rad on after. Not the best idea I'm afraid especially if your using iso valves that will restrict flow and deliver less heat to the rad.

All I'm saying is......innocent until proven guilty. Blame the customer first and possibly yourself dare I say for not planning properly with the plumber before starting

 

[lizzardtong]

First off I'm a plumber!!!! Don't start throwing rotten veg at me lol

To say it's the plumbers fault isn't fair unless we know that for sure. If customer won't pay for the extra visit then it's the customers fault.

Not every tradesman can make multiple visits and this should be discussed before hand.

I always try to accommodate for other trades. I even keep a spare tap in the van so when I rip out a bathroom the tilers and plasterers can still use water in that room for adhesives etc.

Someone mentioned putting valves outside the room and then putting rad on after. Not the best idea I'm afraid especially if your using iso valves that will restrict flow and deliver less heat to the rad.

All I'm saying is......innocent until proven guilty. Blame the customer first and possibly yourself dare I say for not planning properly with the plumber before starting

i was on about full bore valved

 

[Kyle87]

i was on about full bore valved

Fair enough as long as they are not under floor boards etc

 

[lizzardtong]

easier than dealing with 20 radiators

 

[Kyle87]

easier than dealing with 20 radiators

Agreed especially as most non plumbers wouldn't add inhibitor to system upon topping up.
That's not a dig or anything

 

[lizzardtong]

Agreed especially as most non plumbers wouldn't add inhibitor to system upon topping up.
That's not a dig or anything

thats down to lack of knowledge

 

[Kyle87]

A lot of people get funny about plumbers doing a bit of tiling and tilers doing a bit of plumbing.

Providing you know your beans it's all good. You just wouldn't win a lot of jobs unless willing to do a bit of this and a bit of that.

I literally tell my customers "look I'm not a tiler. I know a good tiler if you want one. I can stick tiles to a wall but to say I can tile is a different matter. Now what do you want?"


It's bathroom season for me again so that's why I'm back reading on the tilers forum

 

[lizzardtong]

its time to confess im a multitrader.

 

[Chalker]

its time to confess im a multitrader.

Me too!:sofahide: