Bath shorter than room width

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Pac

i started a bathroom for my daughter a while ago and am just doing bits as i get spare time. i am in the building trade but tiling is fairly new to me asit is something i have done little of in the last 20+ years.

with a lot of really good help in the prep forum i have now got all of the walls ready for tiling. it is all tanked out now so i moved to the next stage when suddenly i came across a problem i didn't notice before.

they delivered the wrong length bath last Nov. :yikes:

i actually put the taps on and the drain so it cannot go back now. the idiots delivered the 1700 when it should have been the 1730mm. as i cannot take this bath back because at the end of the day, i should have checked it before i fitted the taps etc, i now have a gap to take up.

can one of you experts give me an idea as to how you would go about it? i am guessing you come across it. all i can think of is using a piece of treated wood, sealing it further and then putting it in as a base to add a few small cuts of tile.

any ideas advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Pac are you able to take a photo of the bath in situ so we can see where you're short by 30mm? Might help the guys to advise you better. I'm not sure that a piece of wood will be the answer.
 
sorry can't take a photo cos i have a problem uploading at the moment, i have a fault to find on this rig.

end of the bath 30 mm short from the wall. the tile will take up about 12 mm of the gap with adhesive which will leave me with at least an 15-18mm gap at the end. not only that but it will also leave the same gap from the top of the bath to the floor, which i am guessing is going to be a pain in the glutous maximus :smilewinkgrin:

looking at the bath long ways on, the wall is going to be tile to the top of the bath and down the side of the bath. the wood was all i could think of as a base to add a little strip of tiles on to.

i can't really build it out with tile as that would be seen from the side view.

i just wondered if there was such thing as a plastic shield/strip? but not one of the ones you tile into because they look cr4p and wouldn't sort the vertical gap out.
 
You could use some plastic window trim, or just strips of tile. Wood isn't ideal for tiling onto, but it's not really worth sticking a slither of cement board on top, just so you can tile. :thumbsup:
 
Youl need to make a small shelf at the end of the bath before you start to tile the walls, you could use wood but you will come into problems if it gets wet later on down the line. Without seeing it it is hard to give advice, have you thought about using a tile backer board like No More Ply or hardie? Easy to use and wont rot with moisture.
 
Install a batten flush with the bath to take up the gap, screw this onto the wall. Fix similar battens along the wall to take a piece of aqua panel, fix aqua panel to the batten but take it onto the bath to create a wider shelf, you can then build this up to make a decent sized shelf which will take tiles. Silicon all areas before fixing tiles to waterproof and Silicon again after tiling. You will have small cuts down the side of the bath but they are unavoidable.
Perhaps you could use mosaics on this area so that it looks deliberate.

There is a picture in one of my albums where I built out similar to you but my shelf was supposed to be there.


tilersforums.com | Tile Forums | Tiling Forum - diamondtiling's Album: bathrooms - Picture

You could use marmox to make up your own bath panel, this would take away the small gap along the wall.

:thumbsup:
 
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Ideally you want the tiles sitting over the bath not slipped behind so....

Depending on how far you are willing to go i'd dot and dab plasterboard on to one wall making the whole room smaller 30mm shorter (assuming there are no doors on that wall)

or screw 20mm battens and plasterboard an area just behind the bath (so the boxing goes to the ceiling as it were)

or cut and shut the bath (Herbie style):smilewinkgrin:
 
Ideally you want the tiles sitting over the bath not slipped behind so....

Depending on how far you are willing to go i'd dot and dab plasterboard on to one wall making the whole room smaller 30mm shorter (assuming there are no doors on that wall)

or screw 20mm battens and plasterboard an area just behind the bath (so the boxing goes to the ceiling as it were)

or cut and shut the bath (Herbie style):smilewinkgrin:



likewise
 
Im with Beanz, the window trim either a 'd' moulding or cloaking profile would be better. It can be siliconed and wiped clean and it wont break loose like some small cuts of tiles can if they are not laid properly.
 
Im with Beanz, the window trim either a 'd' moulding or cloaking profile would be better. It can be siliconed and wiped clean and it wont break loose like some small cuts of tiles can if they are not laid properly.


Yuk ! I think that would always look like a quick fix bodge.
 
To fit bath i alweys use legs just to level it and Aerated autoclaved concrete (usually wide 6 cm) below around and then foam to make acustic isolation. You can use wider ones (8 cm) to put bath on 5 cm wide and 3 cm will be for this gap. It is hard to explain me this in english if you want i can make draw and sent here.
 
To fit bath i alweys use legs just to level it and Aerated autoclaved concrete (usually wide 6 cm) below around and then foam to make acustic isolation. You can use wider ones (8 cm) to put bath on 5 cm wide and 3 cm will be for this gap. It is hard to explain me this in english if you want i can make draw and sent here.


Please do..:thumbsup:
 
Reboard if possible :thumbsup:
 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x85K3Ps5W24[/ame]

i put some isolation foam below bath too. What i meant before, in place where is 3cm gap you can use 3cm wider material and then strips tile and silicon around.
 
thanks everybody for the ideas. a nice selection to have thought about.

altering the wall is not a possibility. i am a builder so i know all about the walls the mistake was in trusting B&Cr4p.

i know without seeing it it is always hard to know the situation fully but the best way i can explain it is: -

rectangle room. no spare space what so ever because i have had to cram bath to sink to toilet to get an 800/800 cubical in.

all walls are already completely finished and floor fully tiled front to back side to side. all plasterboard to be tiled is fully tanked and all the remaining plasterboard is skimmed. the spot lights are in and equally divided between the space available. shower tray installed & the toilet stack has been altered outside to the new position. the only way all of this was possible was to move the bath to the end under the window which just gave them enough room to get a towel rail in with the door just opening past it.

having been there all afternoon and staring at it i have come up with the only solution i can see feasible for the current situation i have. i know this is NOT ideal and i really did not want to do it but: -

tile the walls to the floor from the window sill height.
2 x 8mm tiles + 2 x adhesive = 26-28mm. gap is 30mm
fit the bath into the tiles section and then have 2-4mm to Silicon the edges.

not what i wanted to do but it is fully protected from slight leaks. it is possible to remove the Silicon and replace it when it does finally change colour and more than anything, it answers my problem without costing me time or money by damaging all of the work i have already done.

now unless there is any major reason why any of you say i cannot do this, i will do so tomorrow. i appreciate it is not ideal.
 
sorry mate just read your post

if you have already tanked etc and dont want to sheet over etc you could frame over the some of the area(doesnt need to be to ceiling height, you could do 300mm up the wall above bath level to form a cill for sher gel etc) and sheet over with aquapanel(this is water resistant)
 
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that YouTube video was interesting viewing Polishtradesman :thumbsup: but i would guess you meant "insulation" not "isolation" 😳

unfortunately framing above it is not an option either as it would look dam ugly to see that from the side. when you open the bathroom door you will be looking straight at the bath from the side, not the ends. unless there are any massive objections i will push for the neatest looking and fit the bath into the tiled area leaving 1-2mm to Silicon.
 
that YouTube video was interesting viewing Polishtradesman :thumbsup: but i would guessyou meant "insulation" not "isolation" 😳

unfortunately framing above it is not an option either as it would look dam ugly to see that from the side. when you open the bathroom door you will be looking straight at the bath from the side, not the ends. unless there are any massive objections i will push for the neatest looking and fit the bath into the tiled area leaving 1-2mm to Silicon.


1-2mm gap to Silicon sounds fine to me mate, as long as its water tight! :thumbsup:
 
that YouTube video was interesting viewing Polishtradesman :thumbsup: but i would guess you meant "insulation" not "isolation" 😳

unfortunately framing above it is not an option either as it would look dam ugly to see that from the side. when you open the bathroom door you will be looking straight at the bath from the side, not the ends. unless there are any massive objections i will push for the neatest looking and fit the bath into the tiled area leaving 1-2mm to Silicon.
My english is not good enought to write exacly what i mean. I dont know diffrence between insulation and isolation, i wrote about foam (same like one to fix windows, door etc) which make sound isolation so if you bang the bath you will not hear loud sound. Method with this material makes bath solid and it looks very nice after tiling this cover.
 
wheres the access panel polishtradesman for possible leaks on the waste in the future
Of course you need to do acces panel. You need to cut hole in right place and fix metal door and use silicon to fix tile to door.
 

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