1mm joint madness

[mz30]

In my honest opinion 1mm joints are only required,when they are required I:E using the stick or eidos etc range from porcelanosa (or similar products).

Using rectified tiles (imho) is a totally diffrent animal,i once had an issue with using rectified tiles and spoke to a reputable suppliers main guy who informed me that rectified tiles in his experience were always fitted without a grout joint.

I have always fixed to a minimum of 2 mm unless as stated above the tiles required a smaller joint.

 

[tfs]

The problem is that in accordance to British/european standards all tile types have a tolerance with regards to tile widths and lenghts. As a result discrepancies in sizes, curvature and squareness are all very common in many tiles (obviously some more than others)

For this reason I dont thik it is advisable to fix with 1mm joints (exept maybe in the smallest of areas e.g table tops etc)

The other obvious reason would be the possibilty of thermal expansion etc

 

[tfs]

BS5385 Wall and floor tiling

Setting Out

1. Tiles should not be butt jointed

• Pressed tiles should be spaced at a minimum of 3mm
• Extruded tiles should be spaced at a minimum of 5mm
• Rectified or calibrated tiles should be spaced at a minimum of 2mm

 

[Rob Z]

Aah, thanks Rob, I'm starting to understand the point...duh, yes makes sense...not an easy with my hand cut mosaics, see?

G, I love the irregular look of mosaics, stone, and other tile that is made to look rustic, uneven, or anything other than with laser-straight lines and machined joints. My favorite covering is stone or porcelain that looks like it's been in a castle for 500 years or so. I used to install a lot of Casa Dolce, which is this way, but for some reason I don't see it any more in the stores around here.

 

[user123]

ops, just noticed my typo in that post, should have said, not an issue with my handcut... weird... but yes Rob, your post did help to make it clear to me what all the fuss is about!! :lol:

 

[Rob Z]

G, the other problem with tight joints comes from the warpage of the face of the tile. Except for stone that is ground flat, all tile has warpage to some extent on the face. Some, in my experience, like Stonepeak and Porcelenosa, are about as flat as one can expect. Others, such as Impronta, look like a Pringles potato chip. And when the designer/showroom/owner says they want tight joints and even better-running bond-it just ain't happening with these tiles without major lippage.

I've had some ridiculous discussions with reps and designers about this issue. I've displayed their tiles with a straightedge across the face, or face-to-face, to show how the corners are warped...and invariably they say either 1. But they're rectified, so I want tight joints :mad2: or 2. a skilled tile setter should be able to handle that.:dizzy2:

 

[tfs]

1. But they're rectified, so I want tight joints :mad2: or 2. a skilled tile setter should be able to handle that.:dizzy2:

lol, a skilled tile fixer could do it with their magic wand!

 

[DHTiling]

a skilled tile setter should be able to handle that.

mmm if i had a pound for every time i heard that...🙂

 

[charlie1]

If going down to 1mm joint, I find it benefical to use a darker grout. Reason being the tiles as you know are sometimes warped so if you are seting them brickbond then the corners or the tile will end up at with slight lip compaired with the middle section of the tile next to it, this will cast a shadow if using a lighter grout, however by going to a darker grout, the shadow becomes invisibile to an extent and gives a much nicer finish.

 

[Ken Bruty]

I've also had this scenario many times, especially with 60 x 30 porcelain tiles, then they want plinth lights fitted :yikes:, which highlights the fact that the lippage is there, I actually find them embarrassing to lay, because there is nothing that can be done to prevent the lippage, so I always talk my customers through this before I even attempt to start fixing.