I
Ian
I strike a line around the room using a laser as a guide, then start tiling from the floor upwards. Same principle over a bath.
Q
Qwerty
Same as Bri for me. Faster than battens IMO
D
Dougs Third Go
me too ^^^ 🙂
R
RDTiling
For me, I just use lengths of timber on the walls. I set my height using my laser level and draw marks along the laser line all the way round the room.
I then screw the batton to the wall, checking the batton is level with my spirit level.
I then screw the batton to the wall, checking the batton is level with my spirit level.
P
prceramics
batton from the bottom of last full tile using a lasor level as a guide and double checking with a spirit level , sometimes i start from the floor by pinging a line round where the battons go and cutting the tile in but only if the floor is not to be tiled, if i batton i always use screws and plugs if needed
J
J Sid
Same as Doug, plan and bri
I
IHB
Does that mean you tile the floor first?
J
J Sid
I always tile the floor first. That way i can leave an expansion gap around perimeter, (ufh), and makes it easier to follow joints up the walls.
S
Sean SML Tiling
I use batten stands and do the floor last then then slot bottom row after floor has been laid.
D
Diamond Pool Finishers
Why don't someone like you Bri do a picture step by step guide to show beginners then it can be made sticky........ just a thought. this question like so many just pops-up time after time .
P
prceramics
I always put the bottom row in after the floor is tiled
M
Mr Tiler
I would strike a line 2 course up the wall, tile down from that line and put screws in under the last full tiles leaving room for the floor to be tiled then cut in the bottom row later
S
Stef
Easier just fixing a baton to the wall Ash if your trying to monkey about with screws under tiles.
I always try & tile from the floor up but if the floors getting tiled then I will fix a level on the 1st row & tile up from there then tile the floor & fix in the bottom row last.
M
Mr Tiler
that's how I am being taught to do it stef so have no choice on the matter mate lol. but tbh I just mark a few course up, strike a line around the room and then work down from that level... then when it comes to chucking the screws into the wall you just have to push the tiles together (with the spacers in place) if ya know what I mean mate? its very effective tbh
P
prceramics
I only use nails or screws when tiling on the diagonal otherwise always batton
M
Mr Tiler
guess im outnumberd here! haha... I used to use a batton too but since working with these guys it is all about speed and that tbh is the fastest way its much easier to wack 2 screws under each tile and keep to the line rather than put a batton up... to them it is anyway and it works and I couldn't use a batton if I wanted to lol
P
prceramics
You only need two or three screws in the whole length with a batton
S
Stef
I only do this when needed but you would be quicker to stick a batton on the wall Ash,
Depends how heavy your tile is also..
M
Mr Tiler
well its mainly 600x300 atm mate
C
cam_low
with the way some people are paying at the moment I will start a thread up about 'what technique do you use to remove the tiles without damaging them so you can get your adhesive back'
P
Peter
Gone are the days when you can draw your line a metre high, spread the entire bottom section and work from the line down. There was a lot less faffing about before the advent of large formats. :mad2:
T
The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.
T
TJ Smiler
Depends on the job (and i seem to go through phases) type/size of tile and the state of the walls for me.... after setting out i would then normally measure down to the top of the bottom tile then set my laser up on this line and put all the cuts to the floor in first.
I do like the floor being tiled first as it feels like a big lump on the job has been done so i often also put the floor in first and then do the same system as above............. if ever i do use batten i have the rubi stands and several old spirit levels that i use as the batten.
I do like the floor being tiled first as it feels like a big lump on the job has been done so i often also put the floor in first and then do the same system as above............. if ever i do use batten i have the rubi stands and several old spirit levels that i use as the batten.
C
charlie1
Phill, it's methods like this that separate you and one or two others from the rest!! Excellent method!
C
charlie1
I tend to use battens if I have concerns over the flatness of the walls, I don't want to be messing about too much with levels if I'm adjusting the plane of the tiles too, just too much going on so sometimes just batten it and that's one thing I don't need to worry about. When battening, you must try and find a solid fixing and pay attention to where you put your fixings and not just for pipes / cables but let's say (as someone has mentioned before) Your only using 2 or 3 fixings then considering your placement of the fixings, try to imaging how your batten will flex under weight stress from tiles because the flex could start giving you problems with grout joints opening up or closing as you move up the wall. Try to get as many fixings as possible but mind those pipes.
Never to old to learn what with my knees and back,thanks.
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