First Attempt at Floor Tiling

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andyb

Hi Guys - not sure whether to post here or in the adhesives forum - I guess it depends if you think the problem I'm describing is adhesive related or something else...

Anyway, have had more than one 'flood' in the kitchen over the years - once from the washing machine door springing open and emptying the contents and another with a bath leak through the ceiling. The thermoplastic floor tiles that came with the house started cracking and lifting and in the end we thought we would just rip it up and lay tiles.

However, although the thermoplastic tiles came up easily enough, the bitumen-like glue underneath didn't.

Research revealed that it would be inadvisable to lay tiles onto that surface without cleaning the bitumen/glue off first. As an alternative I read that you could overlay the concrete subfloor with plywood and then tile on top of that, with an appropriate adhesive.

A trip to Travis Perkins and I was advised to use 5mm ext grade plywood ('this is what everyone uses') - duly delivered and laid and held down by Fischer Nylon Hammerfix F 6 x 40mm fixings at 450mm centres. This was laid over a 4mm layer of Airtec Double Foil Reflective Bubble Insulation to try and reduce heat loss through the floor.

After watching the 'how-to' video that came with the ceramic tiles we purchased in the sale from Homebase (round the corner), I opted for grey Evo Stick 'Tile a Floor' ready mixed Flexible adhesive & grout for ceramic tiles - water proof - allows wide joints - wooden floors version - sounds like the business.

The bucket had a clock label marked 'standard set' with the hands at '10 to 2'. I initially thought this meant 4 hours (!) however, the instructions say allow a minimum of 24 hours before grouting.

My problem is that I laid the first batch of tiles last Thursday (17th Jan). Inspecting the floor today to see if I could start grouting I realised that two of the tiles had 'popped' and were loose. I suspect other tiles may have a similar problem but I don't want to do too much poking until I know what the problem is...

On lifting one of the popped tiles I realised that, although the adhesive had dried around the perimeter of the tile, the adhesive from about 10mm in was still wet! When lifted the adhesive split equally between the tile and the floor.

Is this a subfloor problem? an adhesive problem? a technique issue? temperature/humidity?

Grateful for any ideas

Over to you...
 
Jesus!!!! no way will that floor stay down.. you should deffo have not boarded it with that ply..
 
Airtec Double Foil Reflective Bubble Insulation???? did travis perkins advise this too? whoever advised on the 5mm ply should be shot in order to eliminate giving advise that will guarantee floor failure! sorry mate but IMO the whole lot needs to come up and be re-laid correctly
 
I think you'll definately have to rip the floor up.

Then when you are ready to go again, post the job on here to find a pro in your area.

... or you could use the forum to research the process & ask questions to help you prepare.
 
Airtec Double Foil Reflective Bubble Insulation???? did travis perkins advise this too?

No, that was my idea on the basis that the ply and fixings combination would prevent any movement. I'd seen airtec used under chipboard flooring before so assumed it was ok to use


whoever advised on the 5mm ply should be shot in order to eliminate giving advise that will guarantee floor failure!

I actually asked for 6mm ply but both the guy in the woodstore and at the shop front said this was the one that everybody used for 'smoothing' concrete floors
 
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to insulate the floor you could use marmox boards and powder adhesive to stick your tiles, or as ppl said above hire the pro in your area
 
Replies so far seem to indicate using the ply as specified is at fault and that I should reek violence on the folk who recommended it - but nobody has yet advised what I should have done/specified instead in order to successfully lay tiles on a concrete with bitumen adhesive subfloor....
 
If the vinyl adhesive was virtually unremovable , then you could have slurry coated and tiled it.

What you have done is megga wrong , if you have a leak , say from a washing machine then it will fail big time.
 
floortililgkitchen1opt.jpg Ok - thanks for all the replies - I've lifted another tile and it seems that the adhesive is just not setting even though these tiles were laid last Thursday evening.

Looks like I'm going to have to start again 🙁

But at least the adhesive is coming away with a scraper so may be able to reuse the tiles?
 
Andy
Start now, getting the tiles up and cleaned off. as time consuming as it might sound, get one up at a time and soak it in a bucket of water. you should be able to rub the adhesive off by using your fingers or perhaps a scraper. The minute you get a tile up and open the adhesive up to the air, the adhesive will start to set and become more difficult to remove. You might be lucky to be able to save the whole lot of tiles.
 
put the adhesive back in the tub and take it back remove the ply and re-board with hardi backer
 
Andy - this is one of those threads that just makes the tiling trade either laugh or weep with dispair!
All the advice regarding wood and tubbed adhesive is wrong from your suppliers and only by getting in a competent tiler will you get longevity from your floor.
 
As a tiler, I had a situation in my own home with regards to the sub-floor. If it's bitumen: it's not going to accept tiles. No adhesive manufacturer/levelling compound will take this floor on as it moves too much. Trust me - called them all! It's like a squishy ball of rubber that reacts to temperature in a huge way....tiling is no-go. I fitted solid oak flooring ;(
 
As a tiler, I had a situation in my own home with regards to the sub-floor. If it's bitumen: it's not going to accept tiles. No adhesive manufacturer/levelling compound will take this floor on as it moves too much. Trust me - called them all! It's like a squishy ball of rubber that reacts to temperature in a huge way....tiling is no-go. I fitted solid oak flooring ;(

So asphalt tile adhesive (ATA) can't be tiled on, wow you learn something every day. Or is it Bitumen that can't be tiled on? as a novice tiler I thought if you prepared the surface correctly ie slurry bond for ATA, or the right slc for Bitumen prior to tiling you would be good to go. Ply is a different animal imo. I have been doing everything wrong for 46yrs, thanks for putting me right.:smilewinkgrin:
 
Andy
Start now, getting the tiles up and cleaned off. as time consuming as it might sound, get one up at a time and soak it in a bucket of water. you should be able to rub the adhesive off by using your fingers or perhaps a scraper. The minute you get a tile up and open the adhesive up to the air, the adhesive will start to set and become more difficult to remove. You might be lucky to be able to save the whole lot of tiles.

Update: managed to recover ALL of the tiles laid so far so thanks for this advice. :thumbsup:
Thsi is what it looks like at the mo:

floortililgkitchen2opt.jpg

Now the problem is how to get the hammer fixings out of the floor - they are well and truly stuck by the tile adhesive 🙁

I've worked out a possible method and that is to use a holesaw in a drill just slightly bigger than the fixing - this will at least allow me to lift the ply.

floortililgkitchen3opt.jpg

Hopefully, this will also allow enough purchase to use a claw lever to get the fixing out without the head breaking off.

[update] - fixings successfully pulled out 🙂
 
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So asphalt tile adhesive (ATA) can't be tiled on, wow you learn something every day. Or is it Bitumen that can't be tiled on? as a novice tiler I thought if you prepared the surface correctly ie slurry bond for ATA, or the right slc for Bitumen prior to tiling you would be good to go. Ply is a different animal imo. I have been doing everything wrong for 46yrs, thanks for putting me right.:smilewinkgrin:

hmm - seems there's a difference of opinion brewing here... in my case it's some kind of bitumen based thermoplastic floortile adhesive. I'll carry on lifting the floor and then post a piccie or too when uncovered and hopefully folk can then tell me what to do next. (politely please...)
 
hmm - seems there's a difference of opinion brewing here... in my case it's some kind of bitumen based thermoplastic floortile adhesive. I'll carry on lifting the floor and then post a piccie or too when uncovered and hopefully folk can then tell me what to do next. (politely please...)

It's ok , the other guy is a troll and was just ripping into the thread.. the substrate can be tiled to if prepped right.
 
hmm - seems there's a difference of opinion brewing here... in my case it's some kind of bitumen based thermoplastic floortile adhesive. I'll carry on lifting the floor and then post a piccie or too when uncovered and hopefully folk can then tell me what to do next. (politely please...)

Sorry Andy, I was having a tant, I have a thing about people giving bad advice on TF. Your thermoplastic tiles were fixed in ATA ( Asphalt tile adhesive) if you can remove as much of the ATA as poss, a heat gun and scraper might help.

You can then stabilize the floor using a slurry bond mix of your chosen adhesive and SBR. If you can post some pics it would help.

NB.Some Thermoplastic tiles contain asbestos, so take precautions,:thumbsup:
 
I've done lots of these floors slurry coat mixed with SBR never had a problem ,tub floor adhesive rubbish 5 mm ply what a joke Builders merchants staff will tell you anything to sell there product but would deny if it goes wrong.
 
down our way we call travis perkins.....dorothy perkins..

just about sums them up considering the advice they give, cant beat coming on a site like this or a good tile shop, for the correct advice, hope it all works out well for you in thr end...:thumbsup:
 
..Your thermoplastic tiles were fixed in ATA ( Asphalt tile adhesive) if you can remove as much of the ATA as poss, a heat gun and scraper might help.

You can then stabilize the floor using a slurry bond mix of your chosen adhesive and SBR. If you can post some pics it would help.

NB.Some Thermoplastic tiles contain asbestos, so take precautions,:thumbsup:

Hmm - too late for that as the tiles were lifted some time ago 🙁

Ok - I have removed the ply and left down the airtec for the moment (yes - I'm not going to tile over it!)

Here's some piccies, which I hope will help y'all confirm what type of black adhesive we're dealing with...

floortililgkitchen4rotopt.jpg

and a close up (not much depth of field I'm afraid but hopefully still helpful)...

floortililgkitchen5opt.jpg

btw - you'll have noticed that the next room has a laminate floor covering so there's going to be a junction between where it ends and the tiling begins. The flooring supplier had recommended using an Incizo Quick Step profile to match the flooring. You can cut it a number of ways but bearing in mind that there may be a slight change in level once the tiling is down would it be better to use a bullnose profile on the tile side and then lay the tiles up to it?

floortililgkitchen6opt.jpg

as always grateful for advice from the experienced...
 
I've done lots of these floors slurry coat mixed with SBR never had a problem ,tub floor adhesive rubbish 5 mm ply what a joke Builders merchants staff will tell you anything to sell there product but would deny if it goes wrong.

so is the sbr available from Screwfix ok to use in this case?

I see two products available -

No Nonsense SBR Primer White 1kg | Screwfix.com @ £7.99/kg

or

Cementone? SBR Admixture White 5Ltr | Screwfix.com @ £19.99 for 5ltr (do I need 5 litres? total area is around 75 sq feet...)

Assuming it is the right thing to use on this substrate, can you give me the recipe for
the slurry mix?

Cheers

Andy
 
so is the sbr available from Screwfix ok to use in this case?

I see two products available -

No Nonsense SBR Primer White 1kg | Screwfix.com @ £7.99/kg

or

Cementone? SBR Admixture White 5Ltr | Screwfix.com @ £19.99 for 5ltr (do I need 5 litres? total area is around 75 sq feet...)

Assuming it is the right thing to use on this substrate, can you give me the recipe for
the slurry mix?

Cheers

Andy


Get the cementone one , you mix it 50/50 with adhesive or neat cement...

But if you want to use a ready to go product , then get some Mapei eco-prim grip primer ... PHG wetrooms ( forum sponsor) can supply that for you , tel him tomorrow for next day delivery , 01388-667211
 
The flooring supplier had recommended using an Incizo Quick Step profile to match the flooring. You can cut it a number of ways but bearing in mind that there may be a slight change in level once the tiling is down would it be better to use a bullnose profile on the tile side and then lay the tiles up to it?

I'd use the profile (might be a case of seeing how different the floor levels are, and if you can make it work). Just tiling up to the profile with give you a bit of a ropey finish imho. 😉
 
I've seen your pictures Andy you will not have a problem if you use the SBR mix I always use Bal bond but they are all the same its just that I've used it for years,even my own house floors are the same as yours they have been tiled for ages no problem,just a shame that you went to all that effort and got no where.
 
Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.
 

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