suitable substrate for wooden floor

[Paul Cockhill]

Hi

I would be grateful for some advice. I have been asked to tile a bathroom floor. The flooring is currently wooden floorboards with 6mm or hardboard on top of floorboards with a lino covering.

The WC is also raised up approx 10cm on a plinth with curved edges, above the height of the floor.

I was thinking of replacing the hardboard with some ply and tiling onto that?

What depth ply with you recommend?

Also any recommendations regarding what could be done about the curved plinth?

Would it be better to square the edges of are there any type of tiles which might go around a curve?

many thanks

paul

 

[White Room]

I would use 6mm hardie backer glued and screwed and yes get rid the existing floor covering, make sure there no bounce on the floor as well.

 

[DHTiling]

Hi Paul and welcome...

Do you tile for a living then or is this a diy project.?

 

[Paul Cockhill]

Hi Thanks for the advice from Whitebeam, I guess Hardibacker is better than ply.

In answer to David Howe, I am a plumber by trade but found that plenty of pipes are hidden behind tiles, which always needed replacing. I went and did a weeks tiling course with a reputable company about 18 months ago. Since then I have wall and floor tiled both my bathroom and completely retiled 3 bathrooms as well as other smaller jobs.

I certainly cannot call myself a great tiler but I do a decent job and I have not come across a hardboarded floor before. I knew I could get some great advice on this website, I am also a member of the plumbers forum.

So thank you for your advice.

I am not sure what I can do with the curved plinth for the WC?

regards

Paul

 

[kilty55]

hi paul i would advise lifting lino and hardboard and the odd curved plinth ...if the boards are sound then over board with 6mm cement sheet of choice and tile re fitting wc at end

 

[Paul Cockhill]

Thanks Kilty55

Is it possible to tile the plinth with anything? As it follows the curve of the WC I cannot see how I could line the plinth and then tile it

Paul

 

[Concrete guy]

He's suggesting the "plinth" will be replaced with the hardibacker and tiles.

We're assuming the plinth was simply a packer to lift the WC to suit a fixed soil pipe connection.

Once you've removed the w/c, the odd plinth, the hardboard. Then glued and screwed hardibacker, and fitted the tile you'll probably find you're close to the correct depth to fit the w/c back in without the need to raise it up using to plinth.


Question to the current tilers:-

Back in the day I used to do this with 12mm Aquapanel. Is 6mm hardibacker enough reinforcement to tile on, even glued and screwed?

 

[Paul Cockhill]

Hi

Thanks for the replies, yes it looks like the WC is on a plinth to fit the soil pipe, however the plinth height is about 10cm above the height of the floor so cannot see it being made up by hardibacker and tiles. I am not sure that I can do anything about the sides of the plinth re tiling? unless anyone has any bright ideas

Paul

 

[Concrete guy]

Whoa, 10cm - sorry I read that as 10mm - my bad.

If they aren't going to replace the w/c then leave it be and just cut around it. Not great but what else can you do?

 

[Paul Cockhill]

Hi Thanks

Yes I really do not know what to do about that other than tile the surface at the top of the plinth but the plinth will have to stay as it is, I think, unless I can square it off and cover with hardibacker and then tile on it?

Also I have some 'stick like' or 'gripfill' what would you suggest is best for sticking hardibacker to a woodern floor.

Paul

 

[White Room]

A single part flexible, screwfix do a 25mm turbo screw to fix the hardie down.