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granfix self--priming addy

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D

diamondtiling

This is rubbish addy, know 2 people who have had tiles fall onto their heads with this stuff!!! and me!!! when they complained the company side that it should only be applied where the depth of addy should not exceed 3mm! or it takes weeks to 'go off'. i now use the bal pda primer as a matter of course.


As a tilersforum member you can get better prices at Tilegiant for your primers and adhesives.
:thumbsup:
 
G

Gazzer

This is rubbish addy, know 2 people who have had tiles fall onto their heads with this stuff!!! and me!!! when they complained the company side that it should only be applied where the depth of addy should not exceed 3mm! or it takes weeks to 'go off'. i now use the bal pda primer as a matter of course.


Isnt that a "personal digital assistant " or do you mean APD ? :lol:
 
A

A.J.B.E.G.B

I Know Kerakol do some bagged addys that say they don't need a primer but they are not really self priming. Benfer also do one for anhydrites that say no primer needed. Forbo used to but it never worked so they withdrew it - or so I am told

Arnt these addy's gypsum based adhesives, not cement based and therefore primers arnt needed. Obviously if the wall / floor are over dusty then it will need priming

I never use primers with tubbed addy anyway unless the walls are dusty, then again i never use tubbed gear so it irrelevant
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
931
1,213
Lincolnshire
The ones I am talking about are not actually gyspsum based. They are cement based but are made using sulphate resistant technology so they say can be used without primers on wither cement or on gyspum substrates. They quite confident but I not seen them used yet without primers and generally would not recomend any bagged adhesive without a primer myself....

I agree that if the surface is at all unstable then a penetrating primer to stabilise the surface is a good idea. In these cases I would generally recomend Epoxy myself but I know the addy manufacturers say acrylic.
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
931
1,213
Lincolnshire
have used Benfergyps on anhydrite and did not use a primer, the floor was vacumed and mopped to remove dust.


Useful to know. I assume from t=your comments no issues with the installation. I have recomended Benfergyps in the past but it has proved difficult to get hold of generally.
 
A

A.J.B.E.G.B

benfergyps is available localy and in stock, last job was a 5 year old newbuild and was not sure of the subtrate so used it, on other jobs i have been told the subtrate was anhydrite, would guess about 200m2 in last couple of years with no issues, used it once to lay dural ci but then used c2 above for the limestone.

Do you use a lot of Benfer then? I use it quite a lot as my local shop stocks it. I like the Slow setting white flex - think thats the C2 int it? The rapid set flexys are pretty good (and cheap) aswell. Not struck on the Benfergrip - standard slow set though. never used the gyps one either

What do you think to Benfer?
 
Do you use a lot of Benfer then? I use it quite a lot as my local shop stocks it. I like the Slow setting white flex - think thats the C2 int it? The rapid set flexys are pretty good (and cheap) aswell. Not struck on the Benfergrip - standard slow set though. never used the gyps one either

What do you think to Benfer?

I always used Mapei products for years but I have no consistant local supply so came to use Benfer.

I like to use one manufacture's products and find the benfer range ticks all the boxes.

I use C2 white std set, benferlex rapido white and grey, leaderflex white and grey and the primafuga flex 2/12 grouts.

dont use tubbed gear from any manufacturer
 
D

danj1974

Help!

I'm currently tiling my bathroom using this Granfix Multifix self-priming adhesive and after reading these comments I've now got some major concerns.

The tiles are porcelain and the adhesive was recommended by the shop after I stipulated that it needed to be ready-mixed (I know from previous experience that I work quite slow, so I prefer ready-mixed stuff). I'm tiling onto a wall that was a mixture of old plaster and new plaster board (dot and dabbed) and has been finished with a skim coat. Even afterwards there was a certain amount of uneveness and this has caused me a bit of trouble since I started the job because the tiles are fairly big (43x32cm). I've definitely had to go over the recommended 3mm depth in places - how much of a problem might this be?

I'm now coming to the end of this wall which leads into a 3-sided shower cubicle. So one side of the cubicle is the plasterboard & skim part of the main wall and the other two sides are internal stud walls that have been lined with aquapanel. After reading a bit about tanking and whether it was necessary when aquapanel was being used, I phoned the tile shop to see if I needed to do anything with the bare plaster wall within the shower cubicle area. After initially suggesting Ditra matting, he then checked with a colleague and said that treatment with an acrylic primer would be sufficient. So I've since bought a bottle of Mapei Primer G from them to treat the plaster on that side of the shower cubicle.

So can any of you kind people help me out - am I in danger of making a big mistake here? I've invested a lot of time and money in this bathroom for the long term and I want to make sure I do the job properly.

Should I use a different adhesive for the the shower cubicle area? If so can you recommend a specific make/type?
Should I use a proper tanking system for the shower, or will priming the one bare plaster wall with Primer G be ok?

I also have another internal stud wall with new plasterboard above a bath (no shower) this time unskimmed - should I use the primer on this too?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

Dan
 
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D

danj1974

Yes, it does say it is suitable for porcelain. I'd be pretty dischuffed if it wasn't as it was a specialist tile shop (not one of the big chains) who sold us everything and it's their advice I'm following too.

I understand why a tubbed adhesive might be a problem for porcelain tiles of this size, I guess in my favour it's a porous substrate which has been properly dried out over a couple of months and I can also afford to wait a while before grouting (we've been without a main bathroom for 6 months during our refurb, so an extra couple of weeks won't hurt). Given your concerns though, would you recommend any remedial action on the area already laid?

Any recommendations for a product to use for the shower area? And any comment on whether the Primer G is adequate to coat the plaster wall within the cubicle?

Cheers,
Dan
 
D

diamondtiling

The shop have told you wrong but they wont admit it, its no good for those size tiles and in the situation that you are working, ie a bathroom with a shower area. You specified a tubbed adhesive because you tile slowly, why did the shop not suggest a slower setting bagged adhesive? The bare plaster walls need more than an acrylic bond, they should really be tanked where a plaster finish is concerned. The joints on the aqua panels should be taped as well/

:incazzato:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
D

danj1974

Thanks to both of you for your replies, esp the link Sir Ramic. Sounds like I'm going to have an interesting conversation with the shop tomorrow...
I actually sent the missus to place the final order and asked her to make sure they provided ready-mixed stuff where possible (the grout is colour-matched and there wasn't a tubbed version available), so I can't comment directly on what they said at the time, but she assures me that they didn't suggest any alternative.

What are your thoughts as to what I need to do next? Pull the tiles off (the thought makes me want to cry...), or just switch to a different product?
The tiles are definitely very firmly stuck, but there's obviously a major concern about whether the adhesive will ever dry out underneath.

Will also look into a tanking system for the shower. I do have the correct Aquapanel tape ready to bed in with adhesive before tiling the other sides of the cubicle.

Ta,
Dan
 

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