got probs with rising damp! - TilersForums.com

[handysmiths]

I need to tile a kitchen floor, whats the best thing to do when you got rising damp from old inch think querry tiles without having to take them up?

 

[Ajax123]

I need to tile a kitchen floor, whats the best thing to do when you got rising damp from old inch think querry tiles without having to take them up?

Try an Epoxy Surface DPM

Some Examples that I have used attached. There are loads of these. Don't go on price though because some of the rubbish ones are actually very pricey.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

:welcome:Good Question!

I would think that we have to tackle the rising damp!
If you try to tile on top of the quarries even with a waterproof coating I wouldn't imagine any adhesive company backing their product.
IMO I would take up the tiles remove any weak or friable subsrates and apply 2 coats of a cementitious waterproofing mortar suitable for concrete or cement renders. ( Weber.cem coat 511). It penetrates into the substrate and crystallises, blocking the passage of water. It is suitable on wet horizontal internal/external surfaces subject to positive/negative water pressure.

More work but that would seem the long term answer!

Timeless John.

 

[Ajax123]

:welcome:Good Question!

I would think that we have to tackle the rising damp!
If you try to tile on top of the quarries even with a waterproof coating I wouldn't imagine any adhesive company backing their product.
IMO I would take up the tiles remove any weak or friable subsrates and apply 2 coats of a cementitious waterproofing mortar suitable for concrete or cement renders. ( Weber.cem coat 511). It penetrates into the substrate and crystallises, blocking the passage of water. It is suitable on wet horizontal internal/external surfaces subject to positive/negative water pressure.

More work but that would seem the long term answer!


Timeless John.

It won't be rising damp in the traditional sense. As you no doubt aware Victorian Quarries have no DPM under them. I would be surprised if the substrate is anything more than sand with lime so is bound to be weak and friable. You could end up taking it down to hardcore (assuming there is any there)

Epoxy DPM much cheaper and probably more effective long term. Tremco would certainly write a spec up to do this. They actually have 2 DPMs ES3000 and Universal One Coat. I think One coat better. in this type of system. Think Tremco also do tile addy so would be a fully integrated system. I can PM details for contact at Tremco if any use. The usual procedure would be to mechanically scarify the surface to remove any dirt debris etc and to rough up the surface and then apply the DPM - goes on with a 5mm notched trowel and then rolled out to smooth it down. Used on old screeds for exactly this type of reason. There are loads of these about. Laybond, Ardex, F Ball and Co, Bal, BASF, Bona, Weber etc. I guess if there is an issue with compatibility use one with adhesive from the same company. Don't think too many tilers use them so I guess not familiar but they are used almost routinely with resillients.

 

[DHTiling]

The old quarries will not be suitable to tile to even if you use an epoxy DPM...My bet is that they will be but jointed and virtually floating on a sand bed...and will just have no stability to hold new tiles...

I would take them up and install a new screed floor.

 

[Ajax123]

The old quarries will not be suitable to tile to even if you use an epoxy DPM...My bet is that they will be but jointed and virtually floating on a sand bed...and will just have no stability to hold new tiles...

I would take them up and install a new screed floor.

OK..I give in.. what about decoupling instead. I just trying to avoid taking the lot up. Mind you I could sort out the screed......Hmmm! The sales person in me strikes......

 

[DHTiling]

NAH!! take em up and install a propper new damp proof substrate...

 

[White Room]

:welcome:Good Question!

I would think that we have to tackle the rising damp!
If you try to tile on top of the quarries even with a waterproof coating I wouldn't imagine any adhesive company backing their product.
IMO I would take up the tiles remove any weak or friable subsrates and apply 2 coats of a cementitious waterproofing mortar suitable for concrete or cement renders. ( Weber.cem coat 511). It penetrates into the substrate and crystallises, blocking the passage of water. It is suitable on wet horizontal internal/external surfaces subject to positive/negative water pressure.

More work but that would seem the long term answer!

Timeless John.

Used to use a similar product on concrete, does exactly what it says on the tin

 

[jddevel]

Dont forget rising damp just doesn`t end at floor level but can climb as high as one metre up the wall if it has no DPM in the wall. Older properties often used slate and some bitumen as a DPM. Here in the West Country many properties were just built of the large stones put in as a foundation. Pumped DPM no good due to no real courses but an electrical DPM can be used and is quite successful. Point is that if you do go for a new screed floor don`t forget the walls. Incidently if there is quite a bit a water then belt and braces and lay in a land drain to dispose of water outside of building.
PS If the quarry tiles are in good nick reclaim yards or EBay- they can make good money!