Another newbie building a wetroom

[igro49]

Hi Everyone

It would be great if you guys could comment on how I am going to build my wetroom.

It is on the first floor of a new extension, no floorboards, just 2x8 joists now; two stud partition walls, one wall of aerated concrete blocks (new build) and one solid brick wall that used to be the external wall of the house.

My list of jobs:

1. Noggins.
2. Tuff2 former tray 1400x900. (Chosen after detailed advice on this forum; many thanks for your explanation, Wetdec.)
3. 22mm marine plywood for the rest of the floor.
4. Plasterboard for walls, nailed to stud partitions, adhesive to concrete/brick walls.
5. Dura-CI membrane on the floor using flex adhesive.
6. Dura-WP membrane on the walls using flex adhesive.
7. UFH on the floor, loose-wire because of the funny shape of the room.
8. Flex screed on the top of UFH.
9. Porcelain tiles on the floor, ceramic tiles on the walls, using flex adhesive.

Now, my questions:

First, of course, what did I miss in my list? Is it correct? Are there any better options?

Which membrane is it better to use over the tray itself, Dura-CI or Dura-WP? If it is Dura-WP, is it enough to use 18mm plywood for the rest of the floor?

What else can I do from the point of belt-and-braces approach, mostly regarding waterproofing? I am making the wetroom for myself, and I am happy to go with some extras even if it is overkill, provided the extras make sense. For example, I have read somewhere about a layer of liquid tanking on the top of the membrane – does it make any sense? If I use tile backerboards on the plywood and/or walls in addition to the membrane, probably it will make no harm. (Apart from some pounds from my wallet of course!) Or is it just crazy?

Finally, I would appreciate any advice on minor details of the job (like sanding the tray surface for better adhesion, of which I read on this forum). I am going to do most of the job myself, with casual involvement of a plumber friend.

Thanks all in advance for your patience.

Igro

 

[brian c]

you seem to be on the ball.Flexible grout i would use.also SCREW plywood to noggings dont nail them,put extra noggings in to reduce bounce on floor.Might be a better idea using hardie backer rather than plasterboard around shower area.

 

[DHTiling]

Some things missing..

Primer..

Corner tape..for all internal corners. before main tanking.

Deffo sand the tray to obtain a good key and i use the wp on the trays..

Here is a video on the tanking walls etc..

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pigKorqimGk]YouTube - Durabase wp wet room tanking membrane dura-wp[/ame]

 

[igro49]

Hi

Great advice!

> Flexible grout i would use.

Yes, sure, both flexible adhesive and grout.

> also SCREW plywood to noggings

did I say nail?

> a better idea using hardie backer rather than plasterboard around shower area

12mm presumably. Does it make sense to also use it on the top of plywood, or is it complete overkill?

> Primer..

Sure, thank you for reminding.

> Corner tape..for all internal corners

Definitely, it is just a part of tanking.

> Deffo sand the tray to obtain a good key

Any other tips?

Thanks a lot guys.

Igro

 

[ryan_0405]

Hi Igro,

It looks like you've got the list covered, only thing i would change is the 22mm Marine Ply for 25mm WBP Ply as your tanking the floor. Marine Ply costs a fortune where as 25mm Exterior ply will be about £40 - £55 a sheet

 

[dock]

it would be a good idea to put the ufh under the tanking membrane as some don't like getting wet

 

[Gazebo]

never put ufh under membrane.?

is that ok to do with impey tilesafe.?

 

[wetdec]

never put ufh under membrane.?

is that ok to do with impey tilesafe.?

100w/m2 max over tilesafe................



.

 

[Gazebo]

but can u put 100w under tilesafe.??

 

[wetdec]

but can u put 100w under tilesafe.??

I would get impey themselves to email you the answer to that tilesafe is a little temprimental..............

..