Sometimes the tiles just have to end where they fall at the top. There is so much going on with the pattern. It will always look best to start with a whole tiles (with a corner taken off at 45⁰) off the worktop. Hope that makes sense.
That size will be fine. May be worth setting out the layout first on a flat surface then you can take measurements to see how things will work out. I've used a online mathematical calculator before to work out the "width" of a tile at 45 degrees to see how they will fall and get equal cuts. Good...
Plywood isn't the ideal surface to tile over but in your case it sounds solid and well seasoned. The main thing to remember is that it is pretty porus. I would use a SBR based primer and really wet it with a 1:3 coat (the 1 part being the primer). Then I would go 1:1. On the last timber floor I...
Hi I currently use the fugen miester finishing tool. Concave with a 6mm radius. Usually I go as close into the internal corner as possible but still have to finish (smooth round) using my finger and some soapy spray. Always interested in anything that can make the job neater, easier. All the best 👍
As long as the tiler you use has had experience or is confident in laying 1200 X 1200 then shouldn't be an issue. An area that size may need expansion joints put in on thresholds. Another thing to consider is that the 1200 tile will need two people to lay where as the 800 could be done by an...
In my opinion never does any harm to prime. I use a SBR based primer, dilute 1:3. On the floor and then the boards once down (backer boards are pretty porous so will stop them drawing water out of the adhesive and give you more working time). A 10mm trowel would be fine, I use a half round notch...
Hi everyone. I have a floor tiling job coming up that is a poured concrete screed over piped underfloor heating. The screed has been down for many months (completely cured and underfloor heating has been ticking over on low). My issue is that the surface is quite smooth with a light sheen. Would...
I would use a angle grinder with a abracs diamond blade in (from Toolstation). Once worn in produces incredibly clean cuts. Would rest the tile on a piece of celotex/kingspan when cutting. Look at using a tile levelling clip system. Would use a 2mm (3mm max) spacing width. Use a decent sized...
Depends on the subfloor. If solid concrete and bedded well shouldn't be an issue. If overboarded (with a cement board) timber then may be an issue. Were the tiles ceramic?
Stainless steel trim is pretty tough. I would start of with a hacksaw and mitre box to mark the 45⁰ angle then carefully use a angle grinder with a 1mm metal blade (can get specific ones for stainless steel, not expensive). Just take your time and don't allow the metal to blue with the heat...
Hi Johnathan, I would say if the bitumen is pretty old it should be quite solid and inert. I would give it a slurry coat with a S1 adhesive mixed with SBR diluted with water 50:50. Leave to set and dry out and tile with a S1 Adhesive. Must have been a old method of creating a damp proof...