Uncalibrated Topps Sheera Multicolour Natural Slate

[FreeD]

Hi all.

Have to lay Topps Sheera Multicolour Slate 30 x 30 over the weekend. I've levelled the floor, cleaned and sealed tiles.

Tiles are uncalibrated so all different thicknesses...whats the best way to lay these? bed of adhesive thickness? grout joint size?

And which adhesive rapid or slow...brand?

thanks all...have a good weekend.

:smilewinkgrin:

 

[david campbell]

Hi all.

Have to lay Topps Sheera Multicolour Slate 30 x 30 over the weekend. I've levelled the floor, cleaned and sealed tiles.

Tiles are uncalibrated so all different thicknesses...whats the best way to lay these? bed of adhesive thickness? grout joint size?

And which adhesive rapid or slow...brand?

thanks all...have a good weekend.

:smilewinkgrin:

these tiles don't always match up in grout sizes so some pottering about is required when laying,i would try and level them up as much as possible with back-buttering,the adhesive depends on how fast and how confident you are at laying them,take some time to set it out as the pattern repeats itself so that can save you time

 

[DHTiling]

It is wise to sort through and use the thickest first and grade thin ones to wards the edges.. Back buttering is a must with un-calibrated stone to get a solid fix.

 

[Ken Bruty]

As above, and if you still get some corners sticking up, find a decent sharp cold chisel and when the adhesive is set, take off a couple or three layers of the surface carefully to get a smoother finish.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

First thing I do as my son unloads the van is sit and have a coffee while he collates the uncalibrated slate into thicknesses.
Shame you levelled the floor as I would have suggested starting at the lowest point with the thickest tiles and using less adhesive as you go.
This type of material is rustic in appearance so a wide joint is advised IMHO.
We tend to use a rapid set adhesive which stops any shrinkage/slumping in the bed and solid bed method of fixing.
Have a good weekend.

 

[Diamond Pool Finishers]

john do you have a expresso on your van!?? you drink a lot of coffee even in your posts :lol::lol::lol:

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Got a cup of African Rukoki in my hand now - dark roast, strong but smooth from the mountains of Western Uganda.
In the van its a kettle with single cup cafetiere and hot milk in a flask (mornings only).:8:

 

[redmist6]

" have a good weekend" :lol:

'i've just had a week and a half of laying 123m of modular rustic slate, so you know as well as i do....he aint gonna have a good weekend!!

 

[FreeD]

Hi all

Laid all the field tiles today...started off with 5mm spacers...but they soon went out the window...had to do it all by eye...the tiles varied quite alot in thickness and width (some by 4mm)...just had to do the best i could, some joints were wider than 5mm but looked good.

I did notice with some that the they bowed in the middle...so thick at corners...then in middle...i laid these so that the corners matched up to other tiles but was then left with a slight lip in the centre of tile...nothing I could do about this apart form spend ages finding tiles that match up...

When u mention chiselling...would this be for the situation as above?...would you lay the tiles so the centre is level but the corners raised and chisel them down level after? I thought this might be a bit risky as the tile could crack or could damage ajacent...??

:34:

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Rustic is the 'look' they bought and the quality of the tiles determine the width of the joint.
I have rarely had to chisel off a rough edge of slate but with it beng a layered material it will come off very easily with a scraper or wide chisel.
Look at the black slate picture in a Fired Earth catalogue to see what style the customer is buying into.
20years ago joint widths of 10/12mm were not uncommon and before the wide joint grouts were available sand/cement was the pointing material used.