Discuss Pietra Serena Sandstone 800x800mm help in the Specialist Tile -Stone, Porcelain, Glass area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)
Hi Tom,
Honestly I don't mind and I really appreciate your feedback. I get critiqued and critique every day in my job so it's normal. I respond in detail to comments as I like to give (and receive) all of the available info so that things are clear. Sorry if it sounded like I was on the defensive - I was just giving all the info. Oh and I'm not saying that my tiling is perfect - far from it! I would own up and say I f@{k'd it up if it was low as I'm not a tiler so can plead inexperience but in this case I have a valid reason for it looking like that
I've attached a close up picture of the left to right joint at the top of the original picture (which is the one that looks worst) You'll just have to trust me that that's a picture of this joint ;-) It's grouted up to the microbevel so it's just shadows and slight tile staining at the edges that makes it look low in the original picture. Although in your defence there is a slight hump in the middle of this particular tile adding to the shadow - there's another tile elsewhere in the house with a hump and the shadow is huge making the grout look low and it's doing my head in.
With regards to the grout I did struggle with the mix - It drys out really quickly when working into the joints as the tile face pulls all of the moisture out of the mix. If I mixed it any firmer I think I would have struggled to do more than 2 tiles at a time (I was doing 6).
Anyway thankfully it's my house so have no client that will complain and I'm generally happy except from those dark blotches as it's holding me up from sealing the job.
It it is indeed some sort of soaked up moisture from the adhesive I wonder if there are any options or do I have to live with it?
The tiling looks fine, especially if you are not a tiler.
Re the grout...... old school style, sand and cement would have been easier and better to use but again, not for the newbie to try. Personally, I would have sealed before grouting as it looks like you have lots of time on your build to allow for the adhesive to dry.
At the end of the day, if you are happy then that is all that matters.
As for the 'stains'........... then get in touch with a Lithofin Bob from these forums as he may have a suitable product for you.
Don't know why I didn't do this earlier but I just checked back on some images I took prior to grouting (about 2 or 3 hrs after fixing the tiles) and see that the dark blotches are there so I can assume that it's not a grout stain. The blotches don't look as dark as they are now but that could be due to the dust on the tile or it could be that the stain has got worse.
I'm about 90% sure that the tiles weren't marked prior to them going down - I have about 25 left so will have a look to see if any are marked. Nearly all of the marked tiles have the streak pattern diagonally across them like on the image which is strange.
About half way through the job BAL changed their adhesive product - I was using BAL Stone PTB in grey and they stopped making it. I finished the job with BAL Pourable one in white and still have a selection of marked tiles on that area of floor too.
I worried that perhaps I applied the pre-grout seal too early after laying and have sealed in moisture - some parts of the house were sealed within 2 days after they went down but the kitchen which is shown in the image wasn't pre-grout sealed for 2 weeks after laying. In any case you can get the tiles pre-sealed in a factory prior to delivery so I assume that pre-grout sealing isn't an issue.
I'll contact BAL technical to see if they have any comment but I assume that they'll say it's not their product.
Bob gave some useful advice earlier so I'll drop him a msg in the meantime to see if he's seen anything like this.
You’re right I’m not currently registered with the ARB therefore you’ll not find me on the register. I still work in Architecture through a Chartered Architectural Practice and also a sole trader ship (I suppose as an architectural designer if you need a definition), have all of the relevant insurances and clients are fully aware of my qualifications and skill level - but you’re of course right to pick up on the protected title. Sometimes it’s just easier to roll that off the tongue rather than explain the intricacies of the registration process.
In terms of the tiles we never managed to figure out the dark mark problems in terms of cause or resolution– if I were to guess the MVHR (mechanical ventilation) in the house created rather low humidity conditions which pulled moisture and minerals through the tile from the adhesive. It was winter and the ventilation system was heating the air with an electric element so it was very dry. Because the room air was so dry there was in effect pressure differential where moisture is drawn towards dry.
If I were to do it again I’d apply an additional dmp on the top of the slab (even the slab moisture level was less than 5%) and also turn off the ventilation for a couple of weeks after install to ensure a standard internal humidity level. I spoke to a contractor who worked on Apple stores and that’s what they suggested.
Exactly maybe that is what we should do protect it by law .
Mind I don't see how riba should be able to own a job title .
I mean all these architects put letters after their name anyway .
RIBA has nothing to do with it, as it’s policed by ARB. Requires an Act of Parliament to provide protection of title. Perhaps you should lobby your own trade body if you feel that strongly?
RIBA has nothing to do with it, as it’s policed by ARB. Requires an Act of Parliament to provide protection of title. Perhaps you should lobby your own trade body if you feel that strongly?
The easiest way to explain it is that RIBA oversee the educational requirements on route to ARB registration. You must register with RIBA when training as they prescribe the examinations. After you get to a certain stage and register with ARB you can use the Architect title. You don’t need to be a member of RIBA to call yourself an architect.
You can finish the educational requirements with RIBA and not register with the ARB. You can also be registered with the ARB (it’s an annual membership) then chose not to renew thus ceasing to be a registered architect. Non-registered (architectural designers or whatever you want to call them) commonly own chartered architectural practices with ARB registered partners and employ architects. Registering as an architect is one way to demonstrate competence in building design + associated skills, but that’s not to say that a registered architect is any better than someone who isn’t registered and has worked in practice for years. Ultimately, I’d advise that you check the person’s body of work and ensure that all relevant insurances are in place. NJoy was right about how I termed my title. I’m usually more careful but even after you explain the specifics clients, press, planners, and building control officers they will still refer to you as the architect as that’s essentially what you’re doing.
Was it not once the case with trades that you had to be time served before calling yourself a tiler or joiner? Do young tilers still predominantly go to college on day release or is that a thing of the past?
Was it not once the case with trades that you had to be time served before calling yourself a tiler or joiner? Do young tilers still predominantly go to college on day release or is that a thing of the past?
No, you could have once completed an apprenticeship via college and earned a City & Guilds certificate too. Probably the best way considering today's rules on site work.
Don't mind me while I bump up some older but good threads. If you can contribute to the thread, go ahead. But if it's nothing for you then don't reply and it'll soon drop off the What's New page etc.
Worth linking to our new forum structure while I'm doing stuff:-
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