Glazed porcelain cutting issues

[Sean Kerry]

Hi guys, I've just started a job today with a 60x60 glazed gloss porcelain cararra effect. I'm having a nightmare cutting L-shapes, i have a sigma with new wheel in today and a bench wet cutter and large vitrex wet cutter and rubi angle grinder all with porcelain blades. Every time i cut i am getting a hairline break in glaze or tile either at the end or somewhere down the cut, ive used 8 tiles on 1 cut! I've tried just wet cutting on both saws, score one and wet cut the other, score both then wet cut, and just angle grinder but still getting this hairline, feeling ready to walk off the job, ang ideas? Is the tile at fault?

 

[Qwerty]

Core drill the corner to take the stress out of the tile and then perform the L cuts

 

[Sean Kerry]

Thanks for suggestion but I've got 130 sq.mtr over 9 rooms and various doorways to do, should not be this difficult, its a cheap tile! Don't fancy drilling every time, any other ideas?

 

[Dumbo]

Get yourself some bits for an angle grinder . Drilling holes with angle grinder drill bits isn't a big deal .

 

[Old Mod]

Doesn’t matter if you don’t fancy drilling all those corners, you HAVE to, it’s the right procedure these days. Use a 10-12mm core bit, M14 thread for your angle grinder, it’ll blast a hole through in moments. Drill as close to the intersection of the corner as you can, this way it will help prevent the tension within the tile continuing in a straight line, an arc prevents that, hence drilling the corner.
It used to be an issue exclusively for larger formats, not so much the case these days.
That notwithstanding, your tiles could be just tensioned, full stop!
Then you’re not going to achieve L cuts, the lot will have to be exchanged for a new batch.
No matter what you try, even waterjet cutting won’t work if they’re that bad.
At some point, and if your experienced enough, you’ve gotta say, hang on, it’s not me it’s the tiles.
Drill a couple first and try that, see what happens.
You can also drill them, and cut 10mm in to the tile at the edge then stop and cut from the core hole outward toward the edge.
And if it still happens, last thing is to core a sizeable hole, 40-50mm and seewhat happens then.
Sometimes, it just can’t be done if they’re tensioned too much.
Only experience can tell you at which point to say “enough is enough”
Badly tensioned tiles normally present themselves by having a darker biscuit than normal, flatter backs and can be heavier than a non tensioned one.
Also when it splits, if one side of the split springs up and away as it happens, it’s another tell tale sign. Basically, the two bits won’t fit perfectly together again, it’ll be raised somewhere along the split.

 

[Italy]

Doesn’t matter if you don’t fancy drilling all those corners, you HAVE to, it’s the right procedure these days. Use a 10-12mm core bit, M14 thread for your angle grinder, it’ll blast a hole through in moments. Drill as close to the intersection of the corner as you can, this way it will help prevent the tension within the tile continuing in a straight line, an arc prevents that, hence drilling the corner.
It used to be an issue exclusively for larger formats, not so much the case these days.
That notwithstanding, your tiles could be just tensioned, full stop!
Then you’re not going to achieve L cuts, the lot will have to be exchanged for a new batch.
No matter what you try, even waterjet cutting won’t work if they’re that bad.
At some point, and if your experienced enough, you’ve gotta say, hang on, it’s not me it’s the tiles.
Drill a couple first and try that, see what happens.
You can also drill them, and cut 10mm in to the tile at the edge then stop and cut from the core hole outward toward the edge.
And if it still happens, last thing is to core a sizeable hole, 40-50mm and seewhat happens then.
Sometimes, it just can’t be done if they’re tensioned too much.
Only experience can tell you at which point to say “enough is enough”
Badly tensioned tiles normally present themselves by having a darker biscuit than normal, flatter backs and can be heavier than a non tensioned one.
Also when it splits, if one side of the split springs up and away as it happens, it’s another tell tale sign. Basically, the two bits won’t fit perfectly together again, it’ll be raised somewhere along the split.

that preaches!!! ahah
good answer marc

 

[Sean Kerry]

Doesn’t matter if you don’t fancy drilling all those corners, you HAVE to, it’s the right procedure these days. Use a 10-12mm core bit, M14 thread for your angle grinder, it’ll blast a hole through in moments. Drill as close to the intersection of the corner as you can, this way it will help prevent the tension within the tile continuing in a straight line, an arc prevents that, hence drilling the corner.
It used to be an issue exclusively for larger formats, not so much the case these days.
That notwithstanding, your tiles could be just tensioned, full stop!
Then you’re not going to achieve L cuts, the lot will have to be exchanged for a new batch.
No matter what you try, even waterjet cutting won’t work if they’re that bad.
At some point, and if your experienced enough, you’ve gotta say, hang on, it’s not me it’s the tiles.
Drill a couple first and try that, see what happens.
You can also drill them, and cut 10mm in to the tile at the edge then stop and cut from the core hole outward toward the edge.
And if it still happens, last thing is to core a sizeable hole, 40-50mm and seewhat happens then.
Sometimes, it just can’t be done if they’re tensioned too much.
Only experience can tell you at which point to say “enough is enough”
Badly tensioned tiles normally present themselves by having a darker biscuit than normal, flatter backs and can be heavier than a non tensioned one.
Also when it splits, if one side of the split springs up and away as it happens, it’s another tell tale sign. Basically, the two bits won’t fit perfectly together again, it’ll be raised somewhere along the split.

Thanks for some useful info, drilling wont help as its not just happening in the corners, sometimes its 2 or 3 cm into the cut,

 

[Sean Kerry]

Photo

 

[Old Mod]

Thanks for some useful info, drilling wont help as its not just happening in the corners, sometimes its 2 or 3 cm into the cut,

Yes but that’s the point of coring the corner, it’s unlikely to go past the core hole, if it consistently does, back the tiles, you need a new batch, they’re far too tensioned (over fired generally)

 

[Dumbo]

Instead of going full depth on the cut make a first pass at half depth along the full length of the cut using a sponge to cool the disc and cut . Do drill corner first though . Then cut full depth say first 2 inches each end of the cut then full depth next to corner drill hole say 2inches then cut the rest out .

 

[One Day]

everything Marc has already said - 100% spot on.

out of interest - what manufacturer/brand are the tiles?

 

[Sean Kerry]

Instead of going full depth on the cut make a first pass at half depth along the full length of the cut using a sponge to cool the disc and cut . Do drill corner first though . Then cut full depth say first 2 inches each end of the cut then full depth next to corner drill hole say 2inches then cut the rest out .

Tried doing just a shallow pass with angle grinder but still same, photo above is only 2-3mm into depth if tile and then the split.

 

[Bill]

Do a video @Sean Kerry ... lets see how and what you are doing.

 

[Dumbo]

Tried doing just a shallow pass with angle grinder but still same, photo above is only 2-3mm into depth if tile and then the split.

Try putting some carpet on your work bench to help dissipate the high frequency resoresonance from the cutting of the tile

 

[LM]

As Marc @3_fall has already advised, do the two split pieces warp in any way once they’ve split?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

As I’ve got older I’ve certainly mellowed.
I was about to reply almost word for word with @3_fall but now it’s just - 134m and the tiles don’t cut!
And all this advice is free.

 

[Dumbo]

I would like to know how this went .

 

[Sean Kerry]

Had the Rep out yeaterday from thd distributer and he was happy with everything that om doing and the equipment being used and he also filmed me cutting 3 tiles and they all split at various points. He thinks tbey may have been over fired and are getting intouch with the factory in india. I'm plodding on with as i need to finish the room ive started. Thanks so much for everyones help and advice.

 

[Old Mod]

He thinks tbey may have been over fired and are getting intouch with the factory in india.

It costs more to send the rep out than it does to replace the whole order, yet they make us jump thro hoops to prove we’re not idiots and can cut a tile with a wet machine.
They buy this stuff in at less than a fiver a M2, generally £2-3
It’s a joke
What happens if your replacements are all a different shade?
How’s that going to effect the job as a whole?
Will it matter?
It’s far too common now.

 

[One Day]

My advice - don't let them keep you waiting.
Invoke consumer law - write/email them letting them know that the tiles aren't fit for purpose and are faulty.
If you wait, I reckon they will not do anything.
Nobody will admit they are over-fired, but the cut problem proves it.

 

[Sean Kerry]

It costs more to send the rep out than it does to replace the whole order, yet they make us jump thro hoops to prove we’re not idiots and can cut a tile with a wet machine.
They buy this stuff in at less than a fiver a M2, generally £2-3
It’s a joke
What happens if your replacements are all a different shade?
How’s that going to effect the job as a whole?
Will it matter?
It’s far too common now.

Totally Agree its just cheap tiles, its Really weird that its not every tile, he say its hot spots, I'm using expansion joints in doorways so hopefully it will not notice if the shade is different.

 

[Balloo]

Guys there are some tiles that are simply sxxt , had this problem from fired earth and I used both my sigma water saws push table version and the larger bench plunge version both marcrist 850 blades,, no good .
The costumer complained about wastage of 11 tiles costing £250 fired earth got rid of me and sent there best tiler who worked with them all The time .
I lost two days work never gota job of them ever again .

The plumber was my mate and it turned out the best tiler had the same problem so fired earth changed the tile to something else .
Fxxxxxr's

 

[andy-p]

Everytime time ive dealt with Fired Earth ive had problems , ive contacted there tech department and they have admitted difficulty in cutting tiles as well ..

 

[Balloo]

I always check the tile before starting a job and if there's an issue I reject the contract . Makes the tile shop look like arseholes .
The costumer usually calls me back to tile with a different tile , and has a long story to tell me about they will never deal with the shop again .

Look there are companies that will only sell cheap garbage for the short term.

 

[Stefan]

I have never had this problem when I only use a wet saw for L cuts. Husqvarna tilematic.

 

[Sean Kelly]

Thanks for that explanation Marc. I've never heard of over firing, but now I have. I did have a batch of floor tiles that the customer wanted on the wall. I did a test cut and it was one of those porcelain tiles that would not cut in a straight line on a dry cutter. I wasted one tile and got the customer to order a different style of tile. He did and I saved myself from having a nightmare.

Welcome to the forum Sean Kerry