Envolope cut joint widening?

[Beyond the blue]

I'm about to start tiling over a Impey Aqua Grade former with 600 x 600 floor tiles using envolope cuts. One of the cuts will be corner to corner so will be 850mm long. When the corner of the tile drops 20mm the gap must open up accordingly. By how much will it open up roughly? Will it look silly and what can be done to make it look acceptable? I haven't made the cut yet in order not to waste the tile. Hope you guys might offer some advice before I start.

 

[Wolfie9878]

Do you mean where the tiles outside the tray meet the ones on the inside or do you mean just the cut tiles within the tray?
Any pics would help

 

[Bill]

A wet saw cut (or angle grinder if you have a steady hand) will be a good joint size to match the existing grout joints - if you are doing 2 or 3mm joints that is.

Because the tile will be sloping, only the underneath of the tile will be wider, the top should be the same as the non-cut joints.

 

[Beyond the blue]

Do you mean where the tiles outside the tray meet the ones on the inside or do you mean just the cut tiles within the tray?
Any pics would help

The cut tiles inside the tray. As the cut tile drops to the drain the joint must widen as a consequence.

 

[Wolfie9878]

As tom says above - the tile will only widen at the underneath, the face of the tile should be spaced to the width of the blade you use to make the cuts.

 

[Beyond the blue]

A wet saw cut (or angle grinder if you have a steady hand) will be a good joint size to match the existing grout joints - if you are doing 2 or 3mm joints that is.

Because the tile will be sloping, only the underneath of the tile will be wider, the top should be the same as the non-cut joints.

Wow can't get my head around that! So you are saying that if I cut corner to corner with a 2mm blade and drop one corner by 20mm the joint will remain parallel? I get what you mean about the joint being wider underneath though.

 

[Beyond the blue]

As tom says above - the tile will only widen at the underneath, the face of the tile should be spaced to the width of the blade you use to make the cuts.

This is doing my head in trying to grasp this (and I recon to be reasonably educated). It's 10pm and I'm tempted to cut a tile and try it, in order to sleep tonight. LOL

 

[Wolfie9878]

ha
I’m sure your over thinking slightly!
you should cut everything and place them dry, you’ll be able to juggle here and there if you need to - all comes with practice

 

[Beyond the blue]

Got it! The fact that the two edges of the tile remain level is what keeps the joint parallel.

 

[One Day]

Joints will open up if something is wrong. If everything is right, joints will remain consistent.

 

[Waluigi]

Have you thought about the joint actually closing as it drops into position?

Well, you have now

 

[Wayne Brown]

As above cut the tiles and lay them dry to achieve the envelope layout suitable for the tray these were cut free hand with a 115mm angle grinder . Kop

 

[widler]

As above cut the tiles and lay them dry to achieve the envelope layout suitable for the tray these were cut free hand with a 115mm angle grinder . Kop

View attachment 105799 View attachment 105801 View attachment 105805

Whats the crack with the centre joint heavy night the night before

 

[Wayne Brown]

Old news bud ,,

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Old news but it still doesn’t get any better - and I’d certainly not recommend it as a ‘ professional’ result!
I remember the thread - the discussion - your resulting choice - and sadly it’s not the answer to setting out a former tray.
Fail to plan - plan to fail!

 

[J K Tiling Cornwall]

Hi Beyond the Blue, I have tiled a few formers with 600x600mm porcelain, prefer the ones where the waste is central rather than linear. As the tiles follow the fall the grout joints will slightly widen and close up in places, but by laying dry and making small adjustments it should all work out fine.

 

[J K Tiling Cornwall]

Hi Beyond the Blue, I have tiled a few formers with 600x600mm porcelain, prefer the ones where the waste is central rather than linear. As the tiles follow the fall the grout joints will slightly widen and close up in places, but by laying dry and making small adjustments it should all work out fine.

 

[Chewie]

I'm about to start tiling over a Impey Aqua Grade former with 600 x 600 floor tiles using envolope cuts. One of the cuts will be corner to corner so will be 850mm long. When the corner of the tile drops 20mm the gap must open up accordingly. By how much will it open up roughly? Will it look silly and what can be done to make it look acceptable? I haven't made the cut yet in order not to waste the tile. Hope you guys might offer some advice before I start.

Hello BTB,
This is a belated reply as I haven't been on here for yonks but I understand what you meant, totally.
I just did an Impey floor the same and the gradient made the grout lines converge where they shouldn't and the opposite et cetera. Like some of the other guys said, you can muddle the pieces around to "rob Peter to pay Paul" with the grout joint widths.
I found that the best way with such gradients and steep cuts is to definitely isolate the tiling of the tray from the rest of the floor.
Chewie

 

[Beyond the blue]

Hello BTB,
This is a belated reply as I haven't been on here for yonks but I understand what you meant, totally.
I just did an Impey floor the same and the gradient made the grout lines converge where they shouldn't and the opposite et cetera. Like some of the other guys said, you can muddle the pieces around to "rob Peter to pay Paul" with the grout joint widths.
I found that the best way with such gradients and steep cuts is to definitely isolate the tiling of the tray from the rest of the floor.
Chewie

I'm about to start later today, so time will tell.

 

[Wolfie9878]

One I did yesterday, 2mm joints in envelope and normal joints