fixing hardibacker 250 to a highly glossed floor

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cant seem to get csr one to work deffo recomend it with screws :thumbsup:
 
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cheers for the advice guys :thumbsup:

thing is dont hardie say you can use clout nails to fix? if this is the case and the addy didnt stick you could find yourself in hot water


also about the addy taking up the voids,,,thats fine but if it isnt stuck the the sub floor surely that stil leaves a sligght space for moverment?
 
cheers for the advice guys :thumbsup:

thing is dont hardie say you can use clout nails to fix? if this is the case and the addy didnt stick you could find yourself in hot water


also about the addy taking up the voids,,,thats fine but if it isnt stuck the the sub floor surely that stil leaves a sligght space for moverment?


you can use clouts as stated but screws are far better
addy between floor and sheeting shouldnt move if its screwed right its just used to keep sheeting flat and not taking the shape of the floor

hope that helps
 
The CV here in north America is that you should use an unmodified thinset (no latex, no polymers, no additives) under the panels. As Dave and Jay said, that material is there to just fill the voids. There has been a lot of testing at the lab for Tile Council of North America that has demonstratred that the floor is actually better constructed for tile if the cbu's are NOT glued to the floor with adhesive (and only fastened with screws or nails).
 

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fixing hardibacker 250 to a highly glossed floor
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