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Discuss DIY Tiler - 90 sq m of large format porcelaine tiling making me nervous! in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

PJPro

Hi!

I'm having a new extension built on my house. In fact, I've spent today putting in the CAT6 ethernet network (cables and conduit) and bashing through the old gable wall to join the two lofts. But that's another story.

My wife also ordered the 600x400mm porcelaine floor tiles (10mm thick) from Topps. I've got 90 sq metres coming by the end of the week. I am growing more than a little nervous about the laying of these tiles. I've got the porch, hall, dining room and kitchen floors downstairs to do, as well as the downstairs toliet (walls and floor). I've also got the floor and walls of the upstairs bathroom to do.

I'm going to be under pressure to be quick as the other trades are going to be waiting for me to finish before the 2nd fix carpenty and plumbing goes in.

I'm expecting the upstairs bathroom to be a special challenge. It will contain a quadrant shower enclosure with on wall mixer. The bath, basin and toilet will be placed against a low wet wall of about 1m high, containing all the pipework. The basin and toilet will be hung off this wall using Gerberit installation frames and a hidden cistern. The bath has wall mounted taps.

So. My worries. Well, the main one is making sure I'm doing things right.

The floor will be a moisture proof chipboard, topped with hardybacker. Do I need anything else? Should I also put down a waterproof membrane? How about the joints of the hardybacker? Do I need to use waterproof membrane on the walls/floor of the shower? How about the dry lined walls generally? Should I seal them with something like uPVA before tiling?

I've read with interest some of the banter over Sigma and Rubi dry cutters. The 3B or TX-700-N look good. But are these really going to do the business in the hands of a novice like me or should I be looking to buy a wet saw? I've used a (cheap) dry cutter before, many years ago, without much success.

I'm very worried about cutting the hole for the toilet flush plate. It's a fairly large affair (Gerberit - Kappa). How on earth am I going to cut such a big hole in a porcelaine floor tile? Using a jigsaw? :eek:mg_smile:

Clearly, I've got a lot of holes to drill. Are those Porsadrills really my best bet? I was shocked to see that each bit lasts long enough for two holes before it's ready for the bin. I do have a large drill press.....does this give me other options?

I'm fairly practical and can turn my hand to just about anything. I used to be a skilled labourer in my younger years and I am a qualified (but inexperienced) plumber. I'm hoping with a bit of good advice and encouragement I can pull this off. :hurray:

Grateful for any comments.
 
P

PJPro

Hmm. I spoke with Dave from TradeTilers today. Thoroughly nice bloke and gave me loads of advice. His start point was get someone else to do it. Interesting....cos if I do, he doesn't make a sale.

His was a bit concerned when I mentioned the brick bond I intended and said that unless I was very careful, I'd end up with loads of lips. In his experience he's found brick bond is more difficult to lay them over irregularities in the surface than tiling in a grid. He also felt that I really should be going with normal (rather than fast set adhesive). I've spoken with Topps at Christchurch and the manager there (Brendon) has kindly agreed to exchange any bags of adhesive as required. He did say that he didn't agree with Dave and felt that fast set was the better option, especially on the floors.

Anyone have any views on the adhesive I should be using?
 
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P

PJPro

Dave at Tradetiler is actually a TILER.. mr topps is just a salesman..:)

i know who i would trust and slow set gives you more time but also it islonger before you can walk on the tiles laid.., next morning, so if that is ok then deffo go slow set..
Dave recommended BAL Gold Star. Unfortunately, Topps don't seem to stock that particular variant of BAL adhesive. So which should I go for?

It needs to be good for the wooden and concrete/screed floor, walls as well as suitable for and tanked area of the shower enclosure.
 
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D

DHTiling

I think that BAL is a fortune... If you have a Tile giant to hand then Mapei Kera-flex maxi is a TOP adhesive and suitable for all that you have to do..



TILE GIANT
UNIT 1, POOLE TRADE PARK
YARROW ROAD
POOLE, DORSET
BH12 4QA
Telephone
01202 715106
Fax
01202 715144
Opening Times
Monday
09:00-18:00
Tuesday
09:00-18:00
Wednesday
09:00-18:00
Thursday
09:00-18:00
Friday
09:00-18:00
Saturday
09:00-17:30
Sunday
10:00-16:00
 
P

PJPro

I think that BAL is a fortune... If you have a Tile giant to hand then Mapei Kera-flex maxi is a TOP adhesive and suitable for all that you have to do..



TILE GIANT
UNIT 1, POOLE TRADE PARK
YARROW ROAD
POOLE, DORSET
BH12 4QA
Telephone
01202 715106
Fax
01202 715144
Opening Times
Monday
09:00-18:00
Tuesday
09:00-18:00
Wednesday
09:00-18:00
Thursday
09:00-18:00
Friday
09:00-18:00
Saturday
09:00-17:30
Sunday
10:00-16:00
Yes, there's also one in Christchurch. However, the grout and adhesive is all bought and paid for and will be delivered tomorrow. While Topps seemed happy to exchange the adhesive for a different type, I suspect they'll be less keen to give me a refund.
 
P

PJPro

Brendon (Topps) reckons the tiles have very little bowing due to their being relatively wide eg 600x400mm. He would expect more bowing with a 600x300mm. That said, I think this job is going to be difficult enough without further complication. I'll run grid bond past my wife and see what she says.

I've been reading the product information on the BAL SPF. Hmm. Looks like I'm going to need some BAL APD to seal the plasterboard.....but nothing on the floor on the No More Ply (the Project Manager is going for No More Ply over the Hardibacker).
 
W

White Room

Brendon (Topps) reckons the tiles have very little bowing due to their being relatively wide eg 600x400mm. He would expect more bowing with a 600x300mm. That said, I think this job is going to be difficult enough without further complication. I'll run grid bond past my wife and see what she says.

I've been reading the product information on the BAL SPF. Hmm. Looks like I'm going to need some BAL APD to seal the plasterboard.....but nothing on the floor on the No More Ply (the Project Manager is going for No More Ply over the Hardibacker).

There both the same just different ways of fixing
 
P

PJPro

The delivery company for Topps rang this morning to confirm they would be delivering on Monday not today. :-(

I'm off to a company called Atlas Ceramics tomorrow to see if I can buy some tanking for the walls around the shower. I'm assuming I don't need any under the shower tray itself.

I've noticed on a few threads the use of Dural matting. Should I be considering using this stuff on top of my No More Ply? Seems damned expensive.
 
P

PJPro

i just had a moment of clarity, strange for this late of a Friday, did you post that you were going from wood to concrete ? have we covered the points on wooden floors, and prep etc, sorry if we have, been quiet a thread.
The upstairs bathroom will be moisture resistant chipboard topped with No More Ply on 400mm centred joists. Downstairs is a concrete floor, covered with a bed of insulation (75mm) containing wet underfloor heating and topped with screed (75mm). There will be no transition between substrate materials. All walls will be dot and dab plasterboard.

I'm not sure we got into the details of floor prep. There are one or two outstanding questions in my mind e.g. the use of Dural matting.
 
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