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Discuss Looking to remove tiles in Bathroom (need advice) in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Romelee

TF
16
158
Dorset
Hi all,

I am getting quotes in at the moment for my bathroom to be fully tiled, all walls top to bottom and floor.

So far the quotes are ranging from £590-690 but before any of them can do any work i need to remove the tiles.

So now the dreaded bit, what would be the best way?

All i can tell you is the following:

Left wall is plasterboard, behind that wall is a walk in cupboard.

Back wall is plasterboard, behind that wall is my next door neighbours house joint to mine.

Right wall is plasterboard, behind that wall is the front of my house.

Any ideas of the best way to remove the tiles without damaging the plasterboard to a extent that it will have to be replaced.

I was thinking of getting a cheap SDS drill but not to sure as i don't want to buy something for this sole purpose only to find out i will still have to replace all of the plasterboard.

Also attached some piccys of the tiled walls i need to remove.

Your thoughts are most welcome.

All the best

Jay

Left Wall-min.JPG Back Wall-min.JPG Right Wall-min.JPG
 
O

Old Mod

Buy tile backer boards, something like Deltaboard, which are waterproof and need minimal tanking in your shower area instead of wasting money on an SDS drill.
It’s highly unlikely that you’ll get the tiles off without damaging the plasterboard if the original tiles are correctly fixed.
I know it’s not what you want to hear, but it is the likely outcome.
 

Romelee

TF
16
158
Dorset
If the wall behind the shower is a stud wall (could be chased in if brick) this would be a good opportunity to get the shower wiring / water hiden and you can lose the trunking

I would be amazed if the wall behind the shower is brick, the whole house seems to be plasterboard apart from outer walls to the house, outer walls i think is plasterboard>breeze block>brick.

Jay
 

acaciaguy

TF
Arms
388
558
Warwickshire
Even better :grinning: If its one layer of plasterboard then I would take it all off with the tiles and replace the shower / wet area with a backer board and then the rest of the plasterboard areas use moisture resistant PB. When you try to take the tiles off the plasterboard if you can find out where the studs and and cut the board in the right place you might be able to get the tiles and PB off in small sheets rather than tile by tile
 

Romelee

TF
16
158
Dorset
Even better :grinning: If its one layer of plasterboard then I would take it all off with the tiles and replace the shower / wet area with a backer board and then the rest of the plasterboard areas use moisture resistant PB.

Ain't checked yet but what if it is more than one layer, how does it change things? would i have to replace it with two layers of tile backer boards?

Jay
 

Romelee

TF
16
158
Dorset
Hi,

Many thanks for all the tips acaciaguy, just a few more things.

Any idea of what size tile backer boards i will need?
Best and cheapest place to buy all this?
What tape will i need to cover the joints?
Does anything need to cover the tape?...i.e plaster?
What's the best screws for the tile back boards?
How to cut the tile backer boards, same as plaster board?

Sorry for all of the questions

Jay
 

Romelee

TF
16
158
Dorset
Also found this info:

FIXING TO STUD PARTITION WALLS
6mm boards are not suitable for fixing to stud walls. For 10mm and 12.5mm thick boards, vertical studs should be set at *300mm centres. For board thickness
of 20mm and above * 400mm centres are suitable. All board edges must be supported by timber noggins and fixed using approximately 15 fixings for a
1200mm x 600mm board or 27 fixings for a 2400mm x 600mm board. PCS 35mm diameter washers must be used under the head of a steel screw
. Screw
down until the washer bites into the board. Tape all joints using a self-adhesive alkaline resistant tape or suitable waterproofing joint sealing system. (* Stud
centres should be set subject to load requirement)

TILE FIXING TO WALLS
Once the adhesive for securing the boards has hardened and all joints have been covered with an alkaline resistant tape or suitable waterproofing joint
system, tiles can then be fixed directly to the board surface.
 

Boggs

TF
Esteemed
Arms
4,729
1,118
Uk
If you go with the Brighton tiles remember to add 30-40% more to allow for glaze faults, chipped edges and completely different sized tiles I’m talking 2-3mm.

I fit a fair few BCT tiles, they are not all bad but these ones will be.

Keep back all the bad ones and get a refund from where you buy them from.
 

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