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365 drills
Discuss 365 drills in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.
G
Gazzer
Havent tried on porcelain yet but no problems with ceramics. The yellow plastic guide doesnt last long though. The holes to guide the drill tend to wear fast and so dont hold the drills in the right place anymore. Other than that they are great. I will be using them on Porcelain on Monday myself.
K
Kobbie
Hi, i purchased a set of these the other week for drilling porcelain tiles (also 12mm) and they drilled through like a hot knife through butter. This has been one of the best tool buys i have made, because in the past i have tried other drill bits/cutters with not alot of success. I have just purchased the 120mm cutter also, but not had a chance to use yet - but will let you know the result when i have done so. If you aint got a set of these in your kit then i would say it's a must get.
G
grumpygrouter
Hi Kobbie, I made a guide out of some plasterboard for this size of drill. 365 recommend a bench drill for this size but making a guide out of plasterboard works really well.Hi, i purchased a set of these the other week for drilling porcelain tiles (also 12mm) and they drilled through like a hot knife through butter. This has been one of the best tool buys i have made, because in the past i have tried other drill bits/cutters with not alot of success. I have just purchased the 120mm cutter also, but not had a chance to use yet - but will let you know the result when i have done so. If you aint got a set of these in your kit then i would say it's a must get.
Grumpy
K
Kobbie
Hi Grumpy, i do not have a pillar drill but i have seen in photos - plasterboard used as a template so it is nice to know somebody has actually tried it and it works. I was debating about using ply but plasterboard will be easier, i am looking forward to trying it. I am sure it will be fine as all the other sizes have worked great, i can't recommend these enough. Thanks Grumpy
D
Deleted member 1779
Cutting big holes in tiles (75mm 85mm 95mm 100mm 105mm 110mm 115mm 120mm 125mm) for things like extract fan - soil stack when no fixed pillar drill is available on site.
Easy solution
Tools required:
1) Battery hand drill
2) Holesaw (we supply)
3) Piece of scrap plasterboard
Use a pencil to draw a circle round the 365Drills holesaw on the plasterboard. Then cut or score the paper with a knife.
Use your battery drill and the 365-drills holesaw to slowly bore into the soft plaster. A perfect hole will form in a couple of seconds and punch out the other side.
Discard the formed plug or "core" You now have a perfect template for your holesaw.
Place the plasterboard over the correct area on the tile to be drilled. Use it as a guide to start the hole. About 2mm deep in the tile is enough.
For stability you can stand on both the plasterboard and tile. Drill between your legs!
Once started remove and discard the plasterboard. Wet the area to cool the diamonds on the holesaw. Drill slowly and steadily. The drill will gradually grind away the tile at a comfortable, safe and consistant rate.
Because the drill is locked into its own trench or pit there is no chance of drill slip, drill wander, or tile scratching.
Its impossible to damage the tile because the two are self-guiding.
Depending on the hardness of the material a perfect core will be cut in about 3mins (soft) to 5mins (hard) in ANY tile or material from soft ceramics to C5 Hard porcelain tiles. It even works on slate, clay pipes, granite worktops, brick, marble, travertine, glass etc etc
Two points to remember:
1) This method is quick and easy and wont damage expensive tiles.
2) Its cheap. To make a similar hole size 120mm using an Armeg drill would cost you £160 for the drill bit. £40 for the water cooler. £20 for the arbour. £28 for the pilot drill. So you will pay about £250 for the kit for one hole.
And there you have it !
The full article is produced on our website in much more detail and with more piccies - but this explains the principles.
Easy solution
Tools required:
1) Battery hand drill
2) Holesaw (we supply)
3) Piece of scrap plasterboard
Use a pencil to draw a circle round the 365Drills holesaw on the plasterboard. Then cut or score the paper with a knife.
Use your battery drill and the 365-drills holesaw to slowly bore into the soft plaster. A perfect hole will form in a couple of seconds and punch out the other side.
Discard the formed plug or "core" You now have a perfect template for your holesaw.
Place the plasterboard over the correct area on the tile to be drilled. Use it as a guide to start the hole. About 2mm deep in the tile is enough.
For stability you can stand on both the plasterboard and tile. Drill between your legs!
Once started remove and discard the plasterboard. Wet the area to cool the diamonds on the holesaw. Drill slowly and steadily. The drill will gradually grind away the tile at a comfortable, safe and consistant rate.
Because the drill is locked into its own trench or pit there is no chance of drill slip, drill wander, or tile scratching.
Its impossible to damage the tile because the two are self-guiding.
Depending on the hardness of the material a perfect core will be cut in about 3mins (soft) to 5mins (hard) in ANY tile or material from soft ceramics to C5 Hard porcelain tiles. It even works on slate, clay pipes, granite worktops, brick, marble, travertine, glass etc etc
Two points to remember:
1) This method is quick and easy and wont damage expensive tiles.
2) Its cheap. To make a similar hole size 120mm using an Armeg drill would cost you £160 for the drill bit. £40 for the water cooler. £20 for the arbour. £28 for the pilot drill. So you will pay about £250 for the kit for one hole.
And there you have it !
The full article is produced on our website in much more detail and with more piccies - but this explains the principles.
D
Daz
I've got the bathroom kit, 25mm kit and 70mm kit. Used all of them on porcelain, travertine and ceramics and they fired through with no issues.
As Sir Ramic says, the yellow guide doesn't last long but no big deal as it's easy to make another guide. I driled a 70mm hole in ply for the big drill and it worked a treat with a hand drill.
Had a load of 120mm holes to do in large format ceramics a couple of weeks ago, so drilled a couple of 70mm holes and nipped the rest out, looked brill and didn't take very long at all.
As Sir Ramic says, the yellow guide doesn't last long but no big deal as it's easy to make another guide. I driled a 70mm hole in ply for the big drill and it worked a treat with a hand drill.
Had a load of 120mm holes to do in large format ceramics a couple of weeks ago, so drilled a couple of 70mm holes and nipped the rest out, looked brill and didn't take very long at all.
G
grumpygrouter
If the drill you use is a small one and the guide is worn, you can just drill another guide hole in the plate somewhere where there is a space big enough.
D
Deleted member 1779
We produce guides from 6mm to 65mm (any larger and they are difficult to control) and the reason they are made of soft plastic is to protect the diamonds on the drill and to mould / fit to the exact size of the drill.
when guide plates are used for too long and they will begin to wear away. Thats why we try and say to remove it after a few seconds of drilling.
I think the drills might be lasting longer than we claim!
I did look at making the guide stonger (IE swapping HIPS plastic for NYLON) and increasing the depth from 3mm thick to 9mm thick. But we are sure our market niche is for disposable short life kits so we are sticking with that.
The long life market is taken up with ARMEG and RUBI and so we dont really want to be there. Macrist are trying to take them on so there are enough people in the "top end bit".
At the moment we are in the final week of getting it ready for retail (exciting stuff). We believe we have the component lifespan right and so all the energy is being focused on packaging and presentation.
I'll try and get some info together so we can make a proper website announcement of the retail thing before May-2008
when guide plates are used for too long and they will begin to wear away. Thats why we try and say to remove it after a few seconds of drilling.
I think the drills might be lasting longer than we claim!
I did look at making the guide stonger (IE swapping HIPS plastic for NYLON) and increasing the depth from 3mm thick to 9mm thick. But we are sure our market niche is for disposable short life kits so we are sticking with that.
The long life market is taken up with ARMEG and RUBI and so we dont really want to be there. Macrist are trying to take them on so there are enough people in the "top end bit".
At the moment we are in the final week of getting it ready for retail (exciting stuff). We believe we have the component lifespan right and so all the energy is being focused on packaging and presentation.
I'll try and get some info together so we can make a proper website announcement of the retail thing before May-2008
E
enduro
Well what can i say about these drills, got to the job this morning and the foreman said the plumber cant drill those tiles 12mm porcelain tiles, i said i have a diamond drill that will do it no problem, thats what he had the foreman said....Panic set in then, anyway the plumber turned up and around 10am we were read to drill the holes, by this time we had quite a crowd of guys watching to see me fail, so i put my 8mm drill bit in my drill put the gauge on the wall and started to drill...AND GUESS WHAT IT DID IT, thanks 365Drills
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 1779
Re: 365 drills : Diamond drilling of very hard porcelain tiles
Always good to know the drills perform as well as (or better than) expected.
Porcelain tiles are a tough nut to crack so we cant scrimp on the diamonds on the tip of each drill.
I've had the same scenario where a whole room full of people appear to see what these drill will do.
I went to a job where the tiniest bathroom was filled with sparkies, chippies, the designer, the tiler, the home owner, his wife and a couple of contractors waiting to see what would happen. Its a bit scary when they are all watching and waiting to see what happens.
Just as well they work eh !
The "Bathroom Fitters Kit-MAX" Seven careully selected drills in five sizes
Always good to know the drills perform as well as (or better than) expected.
Porcelain tiles are a tough nut to crack so we cant scrimp on the diamonds on the tip of each drill.
I've had the same scenario where a whole room full of people appear to see what these drill will do.
I went to a job where the tiniest bathroom was filled with sparkies, chippies, the designer, the tiler, the home owner, his wife and a couple of contractors waiting to see what would happen. Its a bit scary when they are all watching and waiting to see what happens.
Just as well they work eh !
The "Bathroom Fitters Kit-MAX" Seven careully selected drills in five sizes
E
eatsmice
After loads of reading on this site, I fell for the ruthless marketing! Thank goodness I did. Used the 16mm bit today and it left perfect holes for my heating piping.
First tiling job using large format tiles and was nervous of splitting them while drilling (before laying). Now have no fear at all and looking forward to doing the holes for the shower pipes.
Cheers.
First tiling job using large format tiles and was nervous of splitting them while drilling (before laying). Now have no fear at all and looking forward to doing the holes for the shower pipes.
Cheers.
E
eatsmice
Thought I'd add a bit of info.
These were Le Piezza "Porcellanato" tiles (500mm x 330mm x 9mm). Cut the tiles to 7cm width before drilling. Drilled flat on a workmate bench using a cordless driver at "screw" speed with constant flow from a hose. The cut took about 5mins at that speed, but the bit stayed pretty much cold throughout. I need to cut a total of 6 16mm holes in these tiles hence the slow speed, but I'll happily take advice if this is an unnecessarily slow speed?
Perfect cut to run Hep2o plastic radiator pipe through. Added a pic of the drilled tiles.
PS It was the Bathroom Fitters kit I bought.
These were Le Piezza "Porcellanato" tiles (500mm x 330mm x 9mm). Cut the tiles to 7cm width before drilling. Drilled flat on a workmate bench using a cordless driver at "screw" speed with constant flow from a hose. The cut took about 5mins at that speed, but the bit stayed pretty much cold throughout. I need to cut a total of 6 16mm holes in these tiles hence the slow speed, but I'll happily take advice if this is an unnecessarily slow speed?
Perfect cut to run Hep2o plastic radiator pipe through. Added a pic of the drilled tiles.
PS It was the Bathroom Fitters kit I bought.
Attachments
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D
Deleted member 1779
You are doing all the right things to get the maximum life out of the core and the most numbers of holes.
Providing you keep the core cold (max warm) you should
get the proper life span.
DONT : Heat the core. Drill too fast. Apply too much pressure.
DO: Keep the core cool. Drill at setting 1 on a hand drill. Apply gentle pressure.
If the tiles are not fixed and you can drill them outside its easier to apply a continuous water supply via a hosepipe - over a drain etc.
If the tiles are fixed (and vertical) Then holding a wet sponge under the core will cool it down plus it will collect the dust at the drill site.
Providing you keep the core cold (max warm) you should
get the proper life span.
DONT : Heat the core. Drill too fast. Apply too much pressure.
DO: Keep the core cool. Drill at setting 1 on a hand drill. Apply gentle pressure.
If the tiles are not fixed and you can drill them outside its easier to apply a continuous water supply via a hosepipe - over a drain etc.
If the tiles are fixed (and vertical) Then holding a wet sponge under the core will cool it down plus it will collect the dust at the drill site.
Don't mind me while I bump up some of the old threads. I wont be doing this much more. Just the last few in the Tile Drilling forum - How to Drill Porcelain Tiles. Just one of the many tiling advice forums.
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