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Slc Method, My Way - How To Use Self Levelling Compound Properly
Discuss Slc Method, My Way - How To Use Self Levelling Compound Properly in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.
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The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
Cheers Doug, my way of forming the bays is to set dots with laser to FFL less tile and adhesive, so dots are the bed, I then fill in between the dots using 3-1 compo with the rapid set and polymers, these runners once gone off can be flooded with slc forming perfectly flat bays/floors,
One tip for anyone trying this for the 1st time, when your dots have set lay the compo in between the dots, then use a Stabila level to form a nice runner, (always wet the level) cut off the excess compo from the sides and slide the level off leaving a nice neat runner.
Once the runner or screed has set you can flood the bay with slc and fill with the help of a feather edge. hope this makes sense, and maybe helps someone.
One tip for anyone trying this for the 1st time, when your dots have set lay the compo in between the dots, then use a Stabila level to form a nice runner, (always wet the level) cut off the excess compo from the sides and slide the level off leaving a nice neat runner.
Once the runner or screed has set you can flood the bay with slc and fill with the help of a feather edge. hope this makes sense, and maybe helps someone.
T
The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
i use 150 x 150 white wall tiles cut into 50 mm strips and and use these for level screeds when latexing like your method Phil
Much like the old Semi-dry screed method Gary, sometimes the old ways don't go away.
D
Diamond Pool Finishers
I have been screeding outside last week Phil with 3-1 sand and cement and waterproofer laid into a slurry of SBR & OPC , i always lay strip's of screed and then rule -off to them works great every time !, But i have never used' it for SLC , so if i need to, i will use THE PHIL HOBSON method :hurray: from now on mate thanks Dave
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Spud
I always seem to pull dips in to my work when i run screed channels and am more comfortable using wooden laths when screeding but i only screed 2-3 jobs a year and tend to drop lay when fixing with sand and cement do you have any tips to stop me cutting into my level screeds when ruling off ?I have been screeding outside last week Phil with 3-1 sand and cement and waterproofer laid into a slurry of SBR & OPC , i always lay strip's of screed and then rule -off to them works great every time !, But i have never used' it for SLC , so if i need to, i will use THE PHIL HOBSON method :hurray: from now on mate thanks Dave
Diggy
TF
Once the runner or screed has set you can flood the bay with slc and fill with the help of a feather edge. hope this makes sense, and maybe helps someone.
Out of interest , when you say fill with a feather edge , do you mean flood first , let set , then finish with the FE?
Diggy
Diggy
TF
Same as me , I use doorstops on top of bankers around the edge if i do a S&C screed - which hasn't been for a while - .Without the doorstop , I think if you tamp your bankers in a bit more , making them a bit more solid and try not to lean on the straight edge , also try taking a bit less off each pull.
Diggy
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Dougs Third Go
when you're doing a sand and cement screed Dave, what do you use to screed off?, I've accrued a few various lengths of scaffold tubing over the years (straight!) and I find them superb for screeding off.I have been screeding outside last week Phil with 3-1 sand and cement and waterproofer laid into a slurry of SBR & OPC , i always lay strip's of screed and then rule -off to them works great every time !, But i have never used' it for SLC , so if i need to, i will use THE PHIL HOBSON method :hurray: from now on mate thanks Dave
W
White Room
I never tamp the screed, just bring the screed about 10mm higher and push forward with an ali screed rule with a small amount of body weight on the screed rule.
T
Time's Ran Out
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Dougs Third Go
all in the stomach and shoulders Mark
D
Diamond Pool Finishers
Well Gary & Doug i use aluminium screed rules i bought from rafina , it's in the hand /wrist movement i would say, ruling-off then rubbing flat to consolidate the mix , i have been doing it so long that i rarely need a plastic float, just start rubbing i can see low spots and just throw a handful of compo -on, and rub with rule ! then use these screeds to fill-in between and rule down to the level of these ....... hope that helps
Diggy
TF
I don't mean tamp the whole screed , just the bankers so he doesn't dig into them when pulling the straight edge. Me , I still do with with the doorstops , flick out and fill as I go , got to say I'm pretty sure I can get a better SR than a lot of the tosh screeds I asked to tile these days.
Diggy
Diggy
Diggy
TF
Well Gary & Doug i use aluminium screed rules i bought from rafina , it's in the hand /wrist movement i would say, ruling-off then rubbing flat to consolidate the mix , i have been doing it so long that i rarely need a plastic float, just start rubbing i can see low spots and just throw a handful of compo -on, and rub with rule ! then use these screeds to fill-in between and rule down to the level of these ....... hope that helps
+1 , but I use the float , then finish with a trowel. Been a while since I've done one though , have to say it's a very pleasurable job to do ........once in a while
Diggy
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The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
I
ian158
Im guessing thats aimed at me...my comments were in no way meant to offend at all...just banter between old men and some not so old men :jester:
And on the note you mention...I will admit I am totally lost with what you guys are saying regards sectioning the area, also Phil I cant quite see what you are using there for runners..it looks like brass bars with solder joints, or am I missing something..when i've laid SLc..Ill admit not done a large area, i've just managed to spread as normal, pour float and work back to a doorway..I did some screeding years ago, and just dot and dabbed little mole hills with a long straight edge and worked from them..so you using the same principle ?
P.s and off course without your knowledge..how can the likes of Me/us improve without spending our hard earned cash at one of the tile courses !!!...Ill never get to the stage you are..ill just keep to the easier jobs !
PPS...I never use tubbed so i'm halfway there.
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Martyn Leeds
TF
T
The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
Hi Martyn, I hope these pics might explain, the dots are the level required made from shims/packers, or even cut tiles, set by laser. The runners are made up of 3-1 sand and cement with polymer and rapid set adhesive, to send off the mix.
The runners are only 20mm or so wide, (I use a Stabila level) as my guide, from one dot to the next I lay the mix then cut off the excess, if you wet the level before sliding it off the runner this will give you a nice neat finish.
Once the runners have set you just fill in the bays, as Dave says you must prime the floor and also use an appropriate slc I use Levelflex by tile master, it will go up to 50mm in one pour. Hope this makes sense.
Diggy
TF
T
The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
I had to leave access to the stairs and other areas,so I could only pour one bay at a time. The triangle is part of the plan.
The runners go off approx 3hrs but I like to leave overnight when poss.
T
The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
You would think so Neale, but this one had a clown who told the customer "I can level your floor" he charged her £1200.00 pounds, the plumber then laid the polypipe boards. The floor was 20mm out of level so I had to use 30 bags of levelflex to get it right:mad2:
ive used both methods in the past,tiles/rapidset/sand&cement for my bays roughly the width of my feather edge and then fill. A little kitchen i did for a neighboiur were builder couldnt level the floor, especially towards washing machine. On bigger projects/substrates you could probably spend a good day or two gettiing levels and bays ready
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DJS
TF
Tried this method for the first time on my latest job and I like it. Managed to pickup some mosaics to make my dots, and set them using my laser level, and made runners with my level. Definately got better at it, the more I did. Put my level across it today and laughed when I saw the whole 2m span flat as a pancake.
I have to ask though, could you ever deviate from it slightly depending on the job? Eg. Could you flood the bays to just below the runner level, and leave to set. Then finish with a thinner pour, to cover the tops of the runners. The thinner pour able to be finished with a spiked roller and feather edge?
I have to ask though, could you ever deviate from it slightly depending on the job? Eg. Could you flood the bays to just below the runner level, and leave to set. Then finish with a thinner pour, to cover the tops of the runners. The thinner pour able to be finished with a spiked roller and feather edge?
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