Tile Straight Onto This?

[mickp]

I am about to embark on tiling my bathroom floor and looking for a bit of advice. I have tiled a couple of floors before but always onto concrete and have gathered that upstairs floors need some different considerations. The house was built in 2013. The floor is solid and even. I am not 100% sure of what the floor is actually boarded with. It seems to be chipboard but with some kind of coating. I am wondering if I can tile straight onto this or whether or not I need to use backer board first. I would prefer not to as I could do without the additional thickness but above all I want to do the best possible job and have no issues with it. I feel like I could be answering my own question there. I was thinking to use keraflex maxi s1 adhesive to allow for some additional movement of the floor. Is this necessary?

I have searched a bit on the forum and it seems that most people are using backer boards in the bathroom when going onto ply or chipboard. The thing that is making me doubt if I need to is the coating on my floor (see below). I Plan to use 12mm thick quartz tiles and the bathroom is 4sqm.

Thanks in advance

Mick

 

[White Room]

Not sure myself...

 

[Dave]

It's a waterproof coating on the chipboard , quite common now in new builds and no don't tile into it , overboard with a backer board.

 

[One Day]

You can't tile direct onto coated chipboard. It's only a small area so I'd glue and screw 6mm hardibacker down, then Tile away merrily with any decent s1 adhesive which grabs your fancy.

 

[mickp]

Thanks both for the replies. I was pretty much coming to that same conclusion but it is nice to hear it from someone who actually knows. Backer board it is then.

Would I still need to use the s1 adhesive or would standard keraflex be better. I'm staying away from rapid set this time as my skills are not up to working fast. I threw as much away as I used on my last job (30sqm) and spent forever cleaning my tools

Thanks again

Mick

 

[mickp]

Sorry impish didn't see your reply before I posted. That answers that question then. S1 it is.

Many thanks

 

[One Day]

Still use an s1. Floor will still move so better with a flexible adhesive. Keraflex maxi is s1 i think. (I'm not a mapei user)

 

[One Day]

And i didn't see yours until just now!

 

[Italy]

Keraflex and keraflex maxi ,is S1
keraflex normal for little size
keraflex maxi for maxi size.

 

[bcd-87]

Keraflex and keraflex maxi ,is S1
keraflex normal for little size
keraflex maxi for maxi size.

ahaha

 

[Italy]

ahaha

not well written?
broken minchia to use translator.
now I write freehand

 

[Italy]

ahaha

hahaha I actually wrong to write.
only Keraflex Maxi S1 is.
Keraflex normal, not is S1 (perdono my)

 

[On one]

As others have said it looks like a waterproofed P5 chipboard possible Egger Request Rejected
Now it says you can tile directly onto it,whether you should or not?????? depends on how well it was fitted and joist spacings and so on.
If it was up to me I would overboard with Hardiebacker

 

[LM]

I 'HAVE' to tile on this a lot, all consequences allowed for by email confirmation. It's Wyrock, prime it with Ardex P4 or the like and tile it with a good rubber crumb adhesive, in ten years I've never had a failure

 

[One Day]

I 'HAVE' to tile on this a lot, all consequences allowed for by email confirmation. It's Wyrock, prime it with Ardex P4 or the like and tile it with a good rubber crumb adhesive, in ten years I've never had a failure

but op isn't a pro. I'd never suggest a rubber crumb s2 to a diyer!

 

[LM]

but op isn't a pro. I'd never suggest a rubber crumb s2 to a diyer!

Why not?

 

[mickp]

Thanks for all the info. I think playing it safe and taking the hit on the extra 6mm added by backer board seems the sensible option for me. I'm definitely not a pro and rubber crumb s2 is a different language to me so I definately shouldn't be messing with it. Even if I say so myself my last job ended up looking great but it took me forever and I threw away more adhesive the I used so I definately need to take the path of least resistance.

Cheers

Mick

 

[One Day]

Why not?

I think you can guess...

 

[hmtiling]

Is it quartz stone as in the resin mixed one?
If so doesn't that need to be fixed with 2 part?

 

[Italy]

Is it quartz stone as in the resin mixed one?
If so doesn't that need to be fixed with 2 part?

no @hmtiling

 

[hmtiling]

Thanks for clarification Antonio

 

[Italy]

http://www.mapei.com/public/COM/products/30_ultralites2_gb.pdf
It is highly deformable.
It is great for thin porcelain.

 

[Italy]

Thanks for clarification Antonio

kiss

 

[hmtiling]

kiss

no @hmtiling

I'm pretty sure the quartz/resin tiles should be fixed with 2 part adhesive.
If that's not the case i've been overcharging people

 

[Italy]

I'm pretty sure the quartz/resin tiles should be fixed with 2 part adhesive.
If that's not the case i've been overcharging people

quartz / resin thickness 10 mm I always lived with S1.
subfloor of sand cement.
I may have misunderstood type of quartz / resin?

 

[hmtiling]

quartz / resin thickness 10 mm I always lived with S1.
subfloor of sand cement.
I may have misunderstood type of quartz / resin?

I used to just use s1 too, but a few years ago i was told by my supplier it should be a 2 part and have used that ever since. safe than sorry

 

[J Sid]

If they are resin based use a two part, bottle and powder, no water and skim the backs.

 

[hmtiling]

If they are resin based use a two part, bottle and powder, no water and skim the backs.

thought so

 

[jobdone]

The last Gulf stone that I laid stated on the box that 2 part must be used.

 

[hmtiling]

Vindication