Tanking Tape Install Help

[Crumbs]

Hi, I have purchased a aquaseal waterproofing tanking kit, we have a bathtub with a shower over it. Bathtub is already installed many moons ago and not really equipped to remove it.

We have silconed between the bath (half filled) and the wall slightly below bath level. What i am unsure off is the tape that comes in the kit, similar to the BAL and Mapei stuff but a little thicker i think - do we apply it to the edge of the bath to meet the wall? or is just cornors / joints on the plasterboard?

I called everbuild about this and one said dont, another said you can - i only want to do it if its the norm and needed? The only defence is the silcone if i dont around the bath edge? Much appreciated

 

[LM]

PVC Trade Shower Bath Trim Five Pack All UK
Use it inconjunction with one of these. Prime your walls and allow to dry. Apply a first coat of tanking paste and allow to dry.
Install the Sealux and over lap the part that sits against the wall with a band of tanking tape horizontally right around then apply a piece of tape to the vertical corner and then give a final coat of tanking paste over all the vertical surfaces

 

[Crumbs]

Thanks Lee, that looks good but is it tricky to install? Can i use any silcone thats mould resistant with it or do i need there sealux stuff.

What i initially am thinking when i see that is the level of the walls after the tape and sealux seal is installed onto the wall vs above it, does that not pose a problem in getting a good bed of addy without having to put extra for the restof the wall to meet the level. The walls were a mess and its taken some effort to get them level as much as possible to help tiling. thank you

 

[Chalker]

PVC Trade Shower Bath Trim Five Pack All UK
Use it inconjunction with one of these. Prime your walls and allow to dry. Apply a first coat of tanking paste and allow to dry.
Install the Sealux and over lap the part that sits against the wall with a band of tanking tape horizontally right around then apply a piece of tape to the vertical corner and then give a final coat of tanking paste over all the vertical surfaces

They are awful trims. Whenever I rip a bathroom out with those on, it's always mouldy underneath. ( look awful too)
Just cut down the tape, so it sits 10mm onto the bath. Put masking tape on the bath up to the edge of the tanking tape. Then tank the walls.
After that, tile within 5mm of the bath, grout as usual ( not onto the bath) then silicone the joint.

 

[LM]

Thanks Lee, that looks good but is it tricky to install? Can i use any silcone thats mould resistant with it or do i need there sealux stuff.

What i initially am thinking when i see that is the level of the walls after the tape and sealux seal is installed onto the wall vs above it, does that not pose a problem in getting a good bed of addy without having to put extra for the restof the wall to meet the level. The walls were a mess and its taken some effort to get them level as much as possible to help tiling. thank you

No not at all, it's only about 2mm depth in total, ehich is easily catered for with a 10mm notch. If you follow the instructions for installation exactly there's no problem with mild etc underneath as the void is completely filed with sealux's antibacterial silicone. For a diy'er this is easy, not fiddley at all.

 

[Dan]

Swear we had this same thread the other day.

I'll find it when I have more time. I'm just off out.

 

[Dan]

Shower Install Advice - Tanking??? - http://www.tilersforums.com/threads/shower-install-advice-tanking.79932/

 

[LM]

I don't want to bang on about this, but I have to say 12 years ago I won a lot of large tiling tenders for large scale house builders over here and I had to come up with a system for tanking wet areas to trays and baths that was idiot proof, due to the number and variety of sub contracted tilers I was going to have to use. I can honestly say that in all the years with a number of between 4-10 bathrooms or ensuites per week, when installed as I'm stating, I've never had a single failure. Which considering that all the houses are new builds and shrinkage is a massive consideration is no mean feat!
Either of my two techniques combining a flexible tanking system with flexible tape in conjunction with an aqua seal/ classi seal or a Sealux pack are the best way to economically deal with the inevitable movement.
All I can say is that it's been tried and tested thousands of times with me having to stand over it and I have no complaints.
There are even companies selling the idea as a pack now.

bal + sealux - Google Search - https://www.google.co.uk/search?site=&source=hp&ei=PM2PV_WSEaaWgAbXlLXQDA&q=bal+%2B+sealux&oq=bal+%2B+sealux&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.3..0i22i30.1867.12765.0.15186.13.13.0.1.1.0.220.1293.9j3j1.13.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-hp..0.13.1225.3..0j41j46j0i131i46j46i131j0i131j0i46j0i10j0i13i30.NxK5aVlHZNw#imgrc=UWGD6C1JI1PdkM%3A

 

[Old Mod]

 

[Ger]

Crumbs, there is a website: www.waterproofingshowers.com that may be of interest in respect of installing a Sealux trim over a tray/bath and BAL tanking over the shower walls.

If you are installing a tray/bath and intend to tank over it (or not), Sealux have just launched HydroHALT (www.hydrohalt.com). The installation animation on the homepage might surprise you (or not!)

 

[Crumbs]

Thanks guys for your help, much appreciated

 

[LM]

Crumbs, there is a website: www.waterproofingshowers.com that may be of interest in respect of installing a Sealux trim over a tray/bath and BAL tanking over the shower walls.

If you are installing a tray/bath and intend to tank over it (or not), Sealux have just launched HydroHALT (www.hydrohalt.com). The installation animation on the homepage might surprise you (or not!)

Ger I like the look of that HydroHalt it's new to me, but I'd still like tape on the vertical joints. Some of the movement I've seen in those areas in new builds over the years has been crazy.

 

[Old Mod]

Crumbs, there is a website:

haha I thought he was being sarcastic! Haha
As in..... Crumbs oh look everyone you can go to website you know! Hahaha

 

[Flintstone]

It's a shame most of the customers I mention tanking to, think I'm trying to upsell or aren't interested.

 

[Ger]

It's a shame most of the customers I mention tanking to, think I'm trying to upsell or aren't interested.

If customers want their tiled shower installations to meet BS Codes of Practice, the recommendations are clear. If customers want plaster board tiled without tanking I would ensure a written recommendation to tank the walls was made with a limited guarantee on their chosen specification.

BS 5385-4:2015 was published in October 2015 and Section 7 dealing with ‘wet and damp conditions’ now advises that in areas not subject to continuous water immersion but subject to frequent wetting, the basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight.

In particular, BS 5385 Part 4.7.2.1.4 states the following should apply in respect of installations not immersed but subject to frequent wetting including wet rooms and domestic power showers.

a) The basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight and should be tanked.
b) Water-resistant materials should be used throughout. Plaster and plasterboard, would be unsuitable in frequently wetted areas.
c) The tiles should be solidly bedded so that voids behind them are eliminated as far as possible.
d) When the installation is tanked and water-resistant materials are used, cementitious grouting compositions may be specified.
e) Special attention should be paid to sealing the gaps between wall and base, particularly if the installation is on a suspended floor.
f) Where movement joints are subject to water immersion, water spray or splash, the joints should be sealed with curing sealants.

 

[Flintstone]

Very text book but in the real world, despite my thoughts on it, the customer often doesn't want the extra expense even if it is a small one by comparison to the consequence. I don't work on sites so I don't have some one on my back quoting out of the rule book on every job, the customer gets what they want

 

[Stevev]

If customers want their tiled shower installations to meet BS Codes of Practice, the recommendations are clear. If customers want plaster board tiled without tanking I would ensure a written recommendation to tank the walls was made with a limited guarantee on their chosen specification.

BS 5385-4:2015 was published in October 2015 and Section 7 dealing with ‘wet and damp conditions’ now advises that in areas not subject to continuous water immersion but subject to frequent wetting, the basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight.

In particular, BS 5385 Part 4.7.2.1.4 states the following should apply in respect of installations not immersed but subject to frequent wetting including wet rooms and domestic power showers.

a) The basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight and should be tanked.
b) Water-resistant materials should be used throughout. Plaster and plasterboard, would be unsuitable in frequently wetted areas.
c) The tiles should be solidly bedded so that voids behind them are eliminated as far as possible.
d) When the installation is tanked and water-resistant materials are used, cementitious grouting compositions may be specified.
e) Special attention should be paid to sealing the gaps between wall and base, particularly if the installation is on a suspended floor.
f) Where movement joints are subject to water immersion, water spray or splash, the joints should be sealed with curing sealants.

Its says - water-resistant materials should be used thoughout which I assume means something like Hardi-backer or maybe a shluter system but if these are water resistant this doesn't need tanking except on the joins? or is it suggesting that even the water resistant materials be completely tanked?

 

[Stevev]

also If british standards are applicable to a tiling installation then it shouldn't be an option to the customer whether you use tanking etc or not...that's the point of british standards...to ensure ALL builders/tillers/plumbers adhere to these standards so the customer is protected and can be confident that the job will be completed correctly and no mishaps will occur...

 

[Stevev]

This is all very interesting but would you say that a power shower or even a gravity-fed shower over a bath is worthy of the tanking suggested in BS as only the long wall that will be subject to water and probably water reflecting off the body at that.....I mean, I've got just that at home, the original tiler didn't tank or use any fancy sealer just silicone and over 10years later its still going strong and no leaks...but I guess it's worth the extra confidence in your installation??

 

[White Room]

The trouble is Steve that all back grounds are normally gypsum which suck water up like a sponge, in 84 we rendered shower areas which were block based for the London underground in the lower areas of the office block which was being refurbed and they were for the engineers to have a shower and tiled with Quarry tiles.

Solid as you like.

 

[Stevev]

The trouble is Steve that all back grounds are normally gypsum which suck water up like a sponge, in 84 we rendered shower areas which were block based for the London underground in the lower areas of the office block which was being refurbed and they were for the engineers to have a shower and tiled with Quarry tiles.

Solid as you like.

so are you saying always tank OR use a hardi-backer type background and tank the seams?

 

[White Room]

so are you saying always tank OR use a hardi-backer type background and tank the seams?

What I'm saying is the materials used now for building are all dri lined for a speed construction and the general public want wet rooms which dos'nt allow gypsum to be used, yes they need tanking now due to the amount of water that gets pumped into a shower area.

Whatever system is used works for them and yourself.

 

[Ger]

Water-resistant materials are not watertight. The tanking of water-resistant material makes them watertight. There are many different shower wall substrate materials in the market. Some are not water resistant, some are water resistant and some are watertight. Don't use non-water resistant materials, tank water resistant materials and at least tape watertight materials.

 

[Stevev]

Just a thought.....if you get asked to re-tile the walls round a bath that has a shower over it...and the walls turn out to be render and plaster or even if it is dry-lined....bearing in mind the BS....would I need to take out bath and put water-resistant/tight backing up, tank put bath back..then seal the edge and then tile.?? seems a lot of bother and expense to re-tile...??

 

[Flintstone]

You don't have to do anything. Most people wouldn't go to that length, although it's the best way to do it