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Tanking Question

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B

bugs183

Hi Asp,Looks like it's going to get some stick, so plan it thoroughly.
Don't board the wall and put the tray up against it, it never works, so many people are doing this, you always get a weak spot and a wide gap between the wall and the tray.
The crucial part of any shower installation is how the walls meet the tray. Any movement here and you'll have trouble. So the tray goes in before the walls have the backer board fitted.
Ideally you would want to fit the tray up as close to timber studwork as possible, bearing in mind the room needed for the shower screen.
Then put noggins in between the stud and firmly up against the top of the tray. Fill any gaps with instastick or similar gap filler. These noggins will now support fully the bottom of the backer board. This is the part most duff plumbers and builders neglect, this is why things leak.
Now fit the backer board. Make sure you have a really nice fit to the shower tray, any small gaps again can be filled with instastick etc.
Personally i prefer 'Marmox' board. It's much easier to install and actually is 'waterproof', so you can fit it and only have to cover the joints in waterproof tape. Hardi backer is water resistant and really would need tanking, no matter what anyone says. Obviously is miles better than plaster board!
Overlap waterproof tape onto the tray the thickness of the tile and bond to the wall an shower as recommended. Tape all joints.
Always use a good quality cement based adhesive and a cement based grout such as Mapei or Bal, don't even think of any readymix adhesive and grouts, it's really not worth it in a busy shower like this.


 
B

bugs183

Maybe you do yours differently to all the other guys, and in an ideal world it would be great if it was the case,but I've never seen a tray thats been fitted into place properly if the boards are lower than the height of the shower tray, or if anyones had to hack into the boards to make the shower tray fit.
Most trays are wider at the bottom than the top so there is in my experience always a gap that 'the tiler will get over'. Once that gap is there it just leads to trouble, yes you can tank over it, but the tile is bottom of the tile really should fit down onto the top of the tray. Not to mention the fact that most stud work isn't square.
 

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