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Discuss Tiling over existing sheet Vinyl in the America Tile Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Hi there,

I want to tile my small kitchen floor, it is around 7-8 square metres and has an existing sheet vinyl flooring that has been glued directly onto the concrete sub-floor. I have purchased porcelain tiles (600mm X 600mm) from Topps Tiles, and they advised that with a specific adhesive the tiles could be placed directly over the vinyl. However, I did some research online and I've seen some advice stating that the Vinyl should be removed.

I attempted to take up some of the Vinyl but it was very time consuming, and the glue is very thick almost like rubber, and even with a scraper it was very difficult to remove it from a small section of the concrete floor.

I have attempted to book a tiler, but all are fully booked for the next few months. I was hoping I could get some advice as to if I should remove the Vinyl floor, or can it be tiled over. It is level expect for one high spot and was installed new around 7 years ago so is in good condition.
 
Thanks Travee but I decided to start taking it up but left it due to Christmas and being unwell. I am really struggling to remove the glue from the concrete floor. Even with a scraper and a heat gun it leaves a sticky film on top - It is really quite thick. Please can anybody advise if I can pour over a Self-Levelling compound over the top of this in readiness for the tiling?
Should I buy some sort of chemical glue remover and try and get more of it off? What would a Tiler do this situation as it's pretty time consuming?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
 

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Travee

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Canada
Thanks Travee but I decided to start taking it up but left it due to Christmas and being unwell. I am really struggling to remove the glue from the concrete floor. Even with a scraper and a heat gun it leaves a sticky film on top - It is really quite thick. Please can anybody advise if I can pour over a Self-Levelling compound over the top of this in readiness for the tiling?
Should I buy some sort of chemical glue remover and try and get more of it off? What would a Tiler do this situation as it's pretty time consuming?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Hey Andy. I would mix up some modified thinset, and do a float coat over it, to kind of even out the hills and valleys. Self leveller would work too, but it's pricey, and a bit more involved. Self leveller might need a primer on the concrete first, whereas modified thinset will grab the concrete well enough without primer. It depends on how high the peaks and valleys are, (use your judgment) but that should get it flat enough for whatever goes on the concrete
 
Thank you for your advice Travee. I am a DIY'r and have never attempted something like this before but have completed some research. What is a modified thinset and float coat? Would I put that on and then would it be ready to Tile on top?
I don't mind using a primer and SLC over it if that is the easier solution to pour it and let it set.
I will keep hacking away at this glue the best I can and see if I can get more of it off today.
Thanks again, appreciate the help.
 
Modified thinset has latex polymers in it. Along with a bunch of other stuff. Making it bond better and more flexible. Example of modified thinset schluter all set or mapei flex-bond ext…

Float coat- would just be taking one of the modified thinset and, skimming (troweling) over the the linoleum.

If you have a random orbital sander. I would recommend sanding the linoleum to scuff it up. This will remove any wax or sealers on the linoleum. You could then apply a latex concrete primer used to adhering self leveller concrete. Let that dry then then trowel over the linoleum with a modified thinset. Let that set up and, use a modified thinset for the tile installation.
 
Thank you for replying Evilcorp and for your explanation, I will look to buy some modified thinset then and complete a float coat. Sorry to keep asking questions, as a novice I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly.

So what I can do is get the worst of the glue off, and trowel over a thin layer of Modified Thinset as a float coat. This will be OK to go over the existing sticky glue residue. Once this has dried I can then Tile over the top of this or should I put on a SLC over the float coat?
Here is an updated picture of the glue. I managed to scrape away one small section of glue but it was very time consuming just to get that small bit off !
Thanks for help everyone.
 

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Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the advice so far - really appreciate the help so far. I used a metre level and my Kitchen floor is dipping by about 10-11 mm over a metre, so will definitely need to use a self levelling compound.

I am still trying to remove the sticky vinyl glue the best I can, but it's slow going. I would like to get the worst off before I use SLC just in case there is a problem with it not adhereing correctly ( bit of a worrirer and got a feeling it might go T**t's up otherwise)

Would I be OK to use Zepp Sticky Stuff remover to assist the removal of the worst of the sticky glue, or would that cause a problem with bonding the SLC?? I've read conflicting information online about using glue removers. Is that a no-go?

I also found a product online called Mapei Eco Prim Grip, that is desgined for going over problem surfaces; like bitumen, but wondered if I could use this to go over the Sticky Vinyl Glue? It's ready mixed, and would suit a novice like me to paint this on.

Cheers
Andy
 
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Travee

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8
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Canada
It's up to you. Whatever fits your budget and timeframe. If it was me, I would ignore the glue completely and just put a skim coat of modified thinset over it, and if it's too uneven, I would scoop some thinset in the low spots, and drag a 4 foot straight edge across any areas that had valleys, and be done with it. Even if I was using a self leveller, I would do a thinset, or floor patching compound skim coat/float coat/ scratch coat, whatever you want to call it. To make sure the leftover glue didn't interfere with the primer that the self leveller requires. Be careful with the mixing of the self leveller if you choose to go that route, follow the instructions carefully it cannot be mixed by eye the way thinset can. Also, another thing to watch with self leveller, it will flow quite freely, so as I am doing a skim coat of thinset, I would look for anywhere the leveller might flow, under walls, around plumbing openings, cabinetry, and either plug these spaces with thinset during the skim coat, or some kind of caulking or silicone.

But really, I wouldn't use self leveller because it's expensive, complicated, and not the most diy friendly. Just fill the low spots with modified thinset, and drag a straight edge/ or flat piece of scrap lumber across to get it mostly even. The same way a drywaller flattens a wall with drywall mud. It doesn't have to be perfect or even pretty, just good enough for tile, or whatever membrane is going on first.

"Modified" thinset just means it has been given some kind of polymer to make it more sticky or give it characteristics such as flexibility or crack prevention. Most thinset mortars are modified thinsets, just check the bag whichever type you buy to make sure it's Not UNmodified. 😁
 
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