- Thread starter Andy Allen
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And have you used it before?
Some of them require you to flash the floor with coarse sand while you go along after you've applied the DPM to give a key for the self leveller.
Haha don't apologise ya nutta! I'd of pounced on it too if I'd of been you! Haha
Sorry had to take a phone call as I was trying to post.
All you need to watch @Andy Allen is the rate of coverage mate. You must lay down the correct amount per m2
Otherwise it can be ineffective.
You can do it with a notch trowel, that'll give you the required amount per m2 then flatten it off.
Don't be silly Andy, I've no idea what size notch! Haha I just know it can be done that way!
There are different primers available that are compatible. I'd suggest you use the same system throughout mate, from primer, dpm and leveller and adhesive. You got choice of three I know. Ardex, Isomat and TM.
Hope this helps hehe
Have you noticed how the letter sent C & X are next to each other mr school teacher sir!
Thing is as I said in beginning, I'm not really up to speed on it. I know @jonnyc has done some.
Maybe @GaryTheTiler has too I don't know.
200 mts is too big an area to get wrong!
These jobs are great when straightforward but not for a one man band.
IMO let the bigger boys take the risk.
Discuss Quarry floor, no damp course. in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.
Ain't got a clue mate......just no there's no damp course....
O
Old Mod
Sort mate was just getting home.
From memory, or tho I've never dealt with it.
As long as it's not a lime screed, cos they must be able to breath, and that your sub floor is all good sound and load bearing.
Liquid dpm as Andy above says, then you can level over it with Arditec NA or similar. (I'm sure Isomat do liquid dpm and a leveller that'll go over it)
Then tile it.
I stand to be corrected tho.
From memory, or tho I've never dealt with it.
As long as it's not a lime screed, cos they must be able to breath, and that your sub floor is all good sound and load bearing.
Liquid dpm as Andy above says, then you can level over it with Arditec NA or similar. (I'm sure Isomat do liquid dpm and a leveller that'll go over it)
Then tile it.
I stand to be corrected tho.
L
LM
All joking aside @Andy Allen you can easily do as Marc says and use ARDITEX NA - http://www.ardex.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18
under and above a range of DPM's, but it's better to stick with the one manufacturer. I certianly wouldn't walk from the job over it.
under and above a range of DPM's, but it's better to stick with the one manufacturer. I certianly wouldn't walk from the job over it.
That looks the business......any idea how much it is ?
And have you used it before?
L
LM
Yes I've used them a lot over the years. It's not rocket science, you just need to make sure there's no contamination on the substrate, get a long haired roller and tray and stick strictly to the instructions and your good to go.
Some of them require you to flash the floor with coarse sand while you go along after you've applied the DPM to give a key for the self leveller.
L
LM
Prices will vary hugely depending on where you are and how much you buy. For products like this I find soft flooring trade suppliers much more competitive as they would sell alot of it. Are there any Mercado outlets near where you are?
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J
J Sid
isn't it all dependant on what / how you prime the DPM before levelling or tiling ?
H
hmtiling
I imagine you're right there Julian. Prime plus grip or equivalent then single part leveller?
O
Old Mod
Sorry Marc it's Arditex Na
Don't shoot the messenger
Haha don't apologise ya nutta! I'd of pounced on it too if I'd of been you! Haha
Sorry had to take a phone call as I was trying to post.
All you need to watch @Andy Allen is the rate of coverage mate. You must lay down the correct amount per m2
Otherwise it can be ineffective.
You can do it with a notch trowel, that'll give you the required amount per m2 then flatten it off.
Don't be silly Andy, I've no idea what size notch! Haha I just know it can be done that way!
There are different primers available that are compatible. I'd suggest you use the same system throughout mate, from primer, dpm and leveller and adhesive. You got choice of three I know. Ardex, Isomat and TM.
Hope this helps hehe
J
J Sid
did an old rectory for a local solicitor about 5 years ago and builder put a DPM, weber advised, I think, PR360 and leave for a day before tiling.
solicitor now has got more money and i am to rip up 60 odd mts of porc and replace with marble. Be interested to see how well they are fixed, look's sound.
let you know early April
solicitor now has got more money and i am to rip up 60 odd mts of porc and replace with marble. Be interested to see how well they are fixed, look's sound.
let you know early April
O
Old Mod
I've just set myself up to get slaughtered there haven't I
Have you noticed how the letter sent C & X are next to each other mr school teacher sir!
Have seen several very old quarry floors in good condition and no signs of moisture ( salts ,clouding) , just impregnated with sealers after several months or longer - skirting or even walls swell, or show ingress .if all the above is applied, then porcelain. Do you guys cover yourselves , by taking no responsibility for moisture migration if it happens in these circumstances.
O
Old Mod
Yeah that was why was asking at the top of the thread about lime screed Bob, for that very reason. Cos I know it can happen if they're sealed up.
O
Old Mod
It's definitely something to be considered mate for sure.
Thing is as I said in beginning, I'm not really up to speed on it. I know @jonnyc has done some.
Maybe @GaryTheTiler has too I don't know.
O
Old Mod
How about you @timeless john have you had to deal with any quarry floors like this John?
T
Time's Ran Out
200 mts is too big an area to get wrong!
These jobs are great when straightforward but not for a one man band.
IMO let the bigger boys take the risk.
Reply to Quarry floor, no damp course. in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com
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