Warmup UFH 1.8mm cable - does it need levelling compound?

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Discuss Warmup UFH 1.8mm cable - does it need levelling compound? in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

V

vala

Hi all,
I'm in the process of getting all set up for a first floor refurbishment on my property which includes the installation of electric underfloor heating in wetroom.
I've come across a loose wire system from Warmup and it mentions the wire is 1.8mm thick and you can apply tile adhesive straight on top, removing the need for a self levelling compound.
I've read a number of threads on here which mention applying a self levelling compound but haven't come across one yet which doesn't.
Has anyone ever used this product and not used a self levelling compound before the tile adhesive?
 
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Dan

Dan

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To be honest, applying the SLC doesn't add to the height really. And it encases the cables and stops you snagging them when you trowel over it with adhesive. So for peace of mind, it's always wise.

You need to make sure your stat is outside the wetoom and that you're using the floor probe only, not room sensor (as the sensor wont be in the room).

What floor surface (substrate) are you tiling to? Is it wood or concrete or something else?
 
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V

vala

Dan - I thought/read that you should really add ~10mm on top of the thickness of the cable (in this case 2mm)?
Yes, plan is for the stat to be in the landing area, which is on the other side of the partition wall to the wetroom. This area, along with the bedrooms will also have underfloor heating.
It's on the first floor and is a wooden substrate. I'll be ripping up the floor I expose the joists on to which I'll first reboard with ply, then apply a tile backer board for which the UFH then tiles will go on to.
In the other areas I'll use insulation boards before fitting the UFH then engineered wood flooring.

Ray - I'll take a look into that product you mention.
 
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J

Just Rizzle

vala said:
Dan - I thought/read that you should really add ~10mm on top of the thickness of the cable (in this case 2mm)?
Yes, plan is for the stat to be in the landing area, which is on the other side of the partition wall to the wetroom. This area, along with the bedrooms will also have underfloor heating.
It's on the first floor and is a wooden substrate. I'll be ripping up the floor I expose the joists on to which I'll first reboard with ply, then apply a tile backer board for which the UFH then tiles will go on to.
In the other areas I'll use insulation boards before fitting the UFH then engineered wood flooring.

Ray - I'll take a look into that product you mention.
Click to expand...

ive laid every electric ufh system there is and the schluter really impressed me and that takes some doing believe me. there website has a calculator to help u get the exact system required
 
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Dan

Dan

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Warmup's fine. Don't worry about it.

You're only encasing the cable so you don't trowel over / through it during troweling adhesive. And to ensure it doesn't rise, like it might in wet adhesive. It's quite a skilled job to tile over cable and not damage it. And trust me, you use more adhesive than usual.

How much room have you got to play with?
 
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Andy Allen

Andy Allen

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I don't bother latexing small floors just tile over them. I use bal single part fast flex and bal wide joint grout with gt1 admix.
I use a plastic trowel designed for tiling over the wire to help prevent damage remember to back butter the tiles...I've done loads of small bathroom floors this way and never had a problem.
 
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P

p4ulo

I did my own floor with this very stuff, and as said by nearly everyone, its so much easier to SLC after laying I don't know why you wouldn't. Just remember to leave a nice wide gap around where the toilet will be positioned, and no wires underneath where any furniture might go (under a sink unit for example).
I took a picture of the wires all laid before laying SLC which I'll print out for future reference, also, don't forget to put the sensor in a small length of hose / trunking so you can withdraw it to replace it if it fails.
Good luck.
 
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V

vala

I'll follow the advice and go with the SLC after laying the wires. My toilet and basin are both floating, is it ok to just lay the EUFH under these area?
I'm fitting EUFH to the landing and areas of the 2 bedrooms so my sensor will more then likely be in the landing area as that's were the thermostat will be.
I'm planning on laying warmup insulation boards on top of some ply (which will be on top of the joists), I assume laying SLC before fitting the wood flooring will also be a wise move?
 
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V

vala

Everywhere bar the wetroom will be engineered wood flooring.
Just checked the warmup site and came across this which suggests he loose wire system can be used underneath wood flooring, just a SLC should be used beforehand (as has been mentioned on here).

Starting the rip out on later this month so should know exactly how much height etc I'll have to play with soon.
Plan though is to ply over the joists, then install tile backer boards/insulation boards, install the loose wire system, SLC and finally tile/wood flooring.
 

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S

SJPurdy

vala said:
I'm fitting EUFH to the landing and areas of the 2 bedrooms so my sensor will more then likely be in the landing area as that's were the thermostat will be.
?
Click to expand...

Each heated area (room) should have its own heater wire, floor thermostat/sensor and controller. Or at the very least the tiled bathroom area should be a separate "circuit" to the other area(s) and I would seek advise as to if they can be combined on one controller.

Hope I'm not to late with this!
 
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V

vala

SJPurdy - thanks for the info. I've double checked with Warmup and they've noted each of their controllers can handle a maximum of 16amps. Once I know the sqm of the loose wire I require they'll be able to tell me if I can make do with 1 or will have to purchase more.
I do hope I can use just the one as its a small area that needs heating and tbh for myself there would be no advantage for multiple controls.
 
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S

SJPurdy

Vala my concern is that if you have one controller and heating wire running under two different types of floor then the wire will run at a different temperature under the two floors. The tiled floor will transfer heat away from the wire better than the wood floor. If your floor sensor is under the tiled floor then this will limit the temperature of the tiled floor but I think that the wire under the wood floor will run much hotter which could be a problem. This is why you shouldn't put insulating things like bean bags over a electrically heated tiled floor. Follow the advise of the system manufacturer but make sure they are fully aware of what you are planning.
 
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V

vala

SJPurdy - thanks for that information. Once I have the sqm of the area to be heated I'll contact Warmup and run through what I plan to do. I'll also specify the wood flooring and tiles that I intent to use and see what they come up with.

I was planning on putting the sensor under the wood floor. Would this change anything?
Then the temperature would be dictated by the heat of the wood area. So the tiles, if they are harder to heat, would simply run cooler?

Are there any controllers out there that can control 2 areas independantly?
 
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