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Rosa

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Hi everyone! I've been reading levelling system old posts and have a few questions in relation to some points.

Someone said that PLM or Mustang would leave scratches in high polished or lacquered stones, also it was said sliding systems as RSL could mark some stones. I have digital glazed vitrified porcelain, 60x60x10, would they b OK? U

It was mentioned a few times that during clamping processes in sliding systems (those using wedges/horizontal force, wouldn't know proper name for them..) tiles can move and mess the joint lines. How to prevent or fix this if it can't be prevented?

MLT have few but good reviews, though Jim Murray said in his that "it take a bit of time to get used to using them"...are straps/vertical systems more difficult to use than wedges systems or he meant it for those coming from wedges systems?

To avoid adhesive coming up through the clip Stef recommended to scrap the edge back a few mm's. They were discussing rls, but would this apply to all levelling system? Other advice was to use the back of a small paint brush an run it in the grout joint to get must of the adhesive out.

I read in some other forum, tilers soaking rls clips and wedges in water before use, clips over night and wedges a few hours before. Do you have to even if the are new or clean? They didn't say why they do this...

Someone send a link for a YouTube video of Sal giving tips for plm system. He leaves the clips in for next day job and use scraps to slide in wedges also. I guess that works for all wedge systems (?), but what do you do with vertical systems as MLT or genesis?

Also, for 60x60x10 porcelain using levelling system, with a concrete leveled floor...and been a first timer...what size trowel should I use? 10 or 12 mm?

Looking toward to reading your answers and thanks a mil in advance for your help and time!
 
F

Flintstone

You’ve put some thought in haven’t you!
Scratching, maybe on stone or delicate highly polished porcelain if you get some grime under the wedge. Adhesive can come up around the clip and make a mess hense the removing a bit along the edge of the tile first to stop that happening. Not sure about soaking them, sal does that to dissolve old adhesive on old wedges I think. 600x600 you will need a Minimum 12mm trowel and back butter, if the floor is good.
 

Rosa

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Hehe yess, localtiler, lots of thought, reading, taking notes, watching videos...in theory I could get a degree by now! Pity tiling is about practice not theory! :rolleyes:

Thanks a million for your answer localtiler, I'll scrap the edges then, remove next day and clean them. And 12 mm and back butter it is.

Moving the grout line is a deal breaker so I will probably go for genesis or mlt.

Thanks again and thanks also for your posts about the angle grinder to cut tiles!:blush: I was planning to rent a wetsaw but after reading your posts I will get myself the ATS turbo blade you recommended for porcelain and spare the wetsaw.
 
D

Dumbo

Hehe yess, localtiler, lots of thought, reading, taking notes, watching videos...in theory I could get a degree by now! Pity tiling is about practice not theory! :rolleyes:

Thanks a million for your answer localtiler, I'll scrap the edges then, remove next day and clean them. And 12 mm and back butter it is.

Moving the grout line is a deal breaker so I will probably go for genesis or mlt.

Thanks again and thanks also for your posts about the angle grinder to cut tiles!:blush: I was planning to rent a wetsaw but after reading your posts I will get myself the ATS turbo blade you recommended for porcelain and spare the wetsaw.
There is a fair of theory in tiling . That's where a lot of jobs go wrong that are posted on here , to little knowledge and people with the ( for the older members now )yosser hughes mentality " give us a job I can do that "
 
W

WetSaw

If you use the wedge type push the wedges in from the tile you are laying rather than the one that was down first, that reduces the chance of the tile moving. It's not a big problem anyway, just something to be aware of and keep an eye on.
 

Rosa

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Jcrtiling no doubt about that. I was only messing because my looong post, but clearly there is a huge amount of theory behind tiling. I should know, I'm overwhelmed by it!
PDC thanks a mil for the advice! I'll get Rls and block level then, they have good review in general and are better price than genesis/mlt.
Implish you're totally right but unfortunately in my case the practice will have to be in my sitting room, hall and kitchen:seenoevil:.
 
D

Dumbo

Jcrtiling no doubt about that. I was only messing because my looong post, but clearly there is a huge amount of theory behind tiling. I should know, I'm overwhelmed by it!
PDC thanks a mil for the advice! I'll get Rls and block level then, they have good review in general and are better price than genesis/mlt.
Implish you're totally right but unfortunately in my case the practice will have to be in my sitting room, hall and kitchen:seenoevil:.
I wasn't having a dig .
 

Rosa

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Jcrtiling, you wanted to make a point, I truly didn't think you were having a dig.
I explained myself as I don't want to come across as someone who think you can learn everything that is to learn about tiling (good quality tiling) just by a few readings/videos!:seenoevil:
 
B

Blunt Tool

Purchase clips thinner than your intended joint, do not use clip as spacer because when taking out even when careful it can chip the edge of tile.
 

Rosa

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Thanks mil for the tip calatiller! Would that happen with strap system as well or its mostly with with clips?
1 mm clips and 1,5 mm spacer would work??
 
B

Blunt Tool

Thanks mil for the tip calatiller! Would that happen with strap system as well or its mostly with with clips?
1 mm clips and 1,5 mm spacer would work??
As long as the clip is not tight between both tile edges and same rule no matter what system, learnt the hard way!
 

Rosa

TF
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A nightmare, knowing they'll chip and nothing you could do about it..hard way indeed:tired:
Thanks a mil to let me know Callatiler, really appreciate!!
 

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