tile drilling - TilersForums.com

[davey-j]

I'm on a bathroom which i have dry lined(dot and dab only) on all walls.The question is,if im drilling tiles (365 drilll bits) to put up a mirror and shelf how do i get the wall plug to fit snug in the wall in the brick?
I drill the hole in the tile with the correct 365 drill piece through the tile and through the plaster board,then i get a drill bit and drill into the brick........yes so far? how do i get the wall plug into the wall through the tile into the wall behind so that i can get a screw to fit in? Im sorry if im sounding a bit bone, am i going along the right lines or am i way off, thanks guys

 

[brian c]

drill the hole using the drill guide and sponge,remove and insert a suitable rawlplug and crew in the screw with a screw driver and not a drill.

 

[White Room]

Make the hole in the tile slightly bigger than the plug your going to use so you don't have to force it through the hole

 

[davey-j]

what do you push the wall plug through with as my finger will not fit through and need it tight into the wall.Where you would usually tap the plug with a hammer to get a tight fit you cant if pushing through a small hole through plasterboard into a wall.Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[Colour Republic]

put the rawl plug on the screw first (just 2 or 3 turns) then feed it through the hole until its in the wall, tap the screw lightly with a hammer until you feel rawl plug has sunk home.

I then take the screw out and put a second rawl plug in the hole so it sits in the plasterboard. Then fix up the mirror... or whatever else it might be

 

[Colour Republic]

Also I would only drill through the tile with the 365 bits (8mm) then swap for an SDS (7mm) bit to do the rest (7mm) Brown plug, I always drill the tile slightly bigger as once you insert the screw the plug expands and can crack the tile

 

[davey-j]

cheers for the help guys

 

[Deleted member 1779]

Yes its right. Depending on the substrate behind may mean swapping drills.

The thing to remember here is that the drill WILL WORK in any material behind the tile
(Wood, Plaster, Brick, Stone, Backerboard) BUT it will gum up the barrel. More drills are blown drilling deep behind tiles than are blown due to wear and tare.

Its better to stop and pop out the core / plug than to continue. Compacted plasterboard is a bugger to get out of the cores so avoid if at all possible.

More small drills are lost to having their barrels gummed up with plasterboard than lost to wear and tear. At the point of breakout from the tile - stop.

The white substance in hole B is actually the plasterboard. This is the enemy of small tile drills at 6mm and 8mm. If you can... Swap drills.

 

[davey-j]

ok wil do thanks for all the help

 

[Deleted member 1779]

To new post readers just be aware that...

If you want to be 100% sure of drilling any tile then we do the rawl plug packs: EG: 8mmx4

£29.99 for a pack of four
4x 8mm drills PLUS the anti-slip guide plate. P&P = £2.99

This is price compared to Screwfix which sell them at £10.27 each so would cost you £41.08 plus £5pp if your order is less than £50.

SAVINGS: The savings per pack of four would be £13.01 if you buy from us as the four pack. In addition we also include the anti-slip guide plate - vital - to stop skidding on those new tiles. This option is not available from SFD. However they do provide alternative guides but these will cost you more money.

If you are trade and looking for bulk discounts then contact us and we can offer even keener pricing on volumes.

The anti-slip plate is vital to stop your drills slipping on those tiles.

 

[lawrenso]

Hi Guys

How do you remove the cores from the drill bit?? Having a lot of problems doing that at the mo

Cheers

Steve

 

[Deleted member 1779]

There is a bit of a knack (and some do's and donts)

The main thing is to try and drill out only the tile and nothing else behind. The core should pop out with gentle persuasion from the core ejection slots we provide in every size bit.

Dont drill into tile adhesive, plasterboard because this tends to gum up the barrel of the smaller drill bits (6mm and 8mm). The soft material seems to compress in the barrel if you try to force it back out. That leads to difficult ejection.

Each holesaw is fitted with core ejection sockets

To remove a core use an allen key to poke out the tile

Larger cores have more areas available for access.

You will often find that the fixures and fittings you are installing are supplied with allen keys. Useful for getting into diamond drill cores.

Do try to drill ONLY the tile and not beyond

Try not to break the plug during drilling. If you snap it off at 90% drilled then the plug can rotate in a 6mm drill. This makes it tricky to pop.

Try not to drill anything other than tiles. Softer material gums up the internal barrel.

Hint: If you give up and are stuck with a piece of tile inside a core then you may want to abandon the poke out. Just push it to the back of the barrel. Use that core to "start" holes and swap over to clear barrel cores. Also you can stack the cores inside the barrel of a drill about four or five times depending on tile depth.

 

[Dan]

Don't mind me while I bump up some of the old threads. I wont be doing this much more. Just the last few in the Tile Drilling forum - How to Drill Porcelain Tiles. Just one of the many tiling advice forums.