• Thanks for visiting TilersForums.com, the Tile Advice Forum. It's free to join if you'd like to register and ask a question should you not be able to search for your answers already. :)

Discuss what fixings for shower screen in the Tiling Forum | Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com

Status
Not open for further replies.
L

lendini

Hi all this is probably been asked so many times.Have to install a glass shower screen to a tiled on plasterboard substrate.There i beleive is no studs near or noggins as the screen needs to align with the fitted bath edge.please could you advise me what to use and how to install.This will also apply to shower rail as well.Seen the thread where you drill hole for fixings then make tile hoile slightly bigger to allow plug to pass through into substrate.this is a larger item and really have nothing but plasterboard and no studs to work with here.Many thx Lee:mad2:
 
P

pjtiler

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #2
Hi all this is probably been asked so many times.Have to install a glass shower screen to a tiled on plasterboard substrate.There i beleive is no studs near or noggins as the screen needs to align with the fitted bath edge.please could you advise me what to use and how to install.This will also apply to shower rail as well.Seen the thread where you drill hole for fixings then make tile hoile slightly bigger to allow plug to pass through into substrate.this is a larger item and really have nothing but plasterboard and no studs to work with here.Many thx Lee:mad2:
Mungo Easi-Driver Metal 32mm Pack of 100 - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys
i would put a couple of lines of silicone on each post too
 
Drill through the tiles with a 7mm tile drill, then carefully drill through the plasterboard with a 6.5mm wood HSS drill so that you dont tear the plasterboard to shreds with the drill. Then tap in a brown plug so that its slightly below the surface of the tile, then you can screw into it with a 4mm x 35mm screw, dont use a bigger diameter screw or you may crack the tile and use silicon behind the profile. Just nip the screws up and once the silicon has set it will be solid.
 
As pj said use these as they are one of the stronger fixings for plasterboard, i use them most of the time when fixing to plasterboard....
How can you use them on a tiled wall and still get the profiles to sit flat to the wall ?
 
R

robbo

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
How can you use them on a tiled wall and still get the profiles to sit flat to the wall ?
Yeah your right, you can't, miss read it thought the screen was going straight onto plasterboard...
 
D

Deleted member 1779

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Obviously we supply the tile drills that will put a hole into a tile assuming you will be using standard rawl plugs. Hence this product:



Which is used for this type of hole



BUT

If you are going to use plasterboard wall anchors beware that you will be limited to the width / size of the hole that you can poke through.

If you tried to use any type of self drive anchor when the tiles are fitted with our 8mm kit then they will get it stuck. IE this is a self drive anchor.



I would not recommend a self drive anchor (sorry to the post above) but he IS correct and on the right track in suggesting wall anchors as the solution. What I would suggest is a slightly different anchor.

Thats because the wall anchor that you use is going to need has to fit into through the hole in the tile and into the cavity to expand behind.

Assuming you are not confident the tile and adhesive could hold the weight of a standard rawl plug then you are going to need a wall anchor that expands after installation.

This is a bog standard rawl:


Not man enough for the job? - Then you need a wall anchor

Can I suggest this one? 38777



38777 is (M4) needs our 8mm drill kit to fit it. Once drilled you then slide the barrel of the above through the hole to the back of the tile / plasterboard sandwich.

I'm afraid my suggestion does require the additional purchase and use of tool 38788 to "open" the wings of the anchor for it to grip the back of the plasterboard and thus spread the load.



The M4 size fitting if used in series of say three on a shower screen should have enough guts to hold up.
 
But again, wont the flange on that fixing sit slightly proud of the tiles and thus hold the profile of off the wall ?
 
D

Deleted member 1779

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
Its a fair point. Only a rawl plug can be set back on a tile.

Wall anchors will give the additional strength but they do stick out a bit and would be difficult to countersink.

What I did was to leave the trim bead proud on the tile and then to silicone over the joint to hide the gap.



The silver plate above is also an additional extra to add rigidity to the glass wall.

Its probably true that a few rawl plugs used in the manor you describe would be able to hold the weight.



Its just so difficult to tell with any degree of certainty. I used 9mm thick glass doors so the weight load was incredible. And considering it was a glass door so open and shut every day put quite a strain on the fittings.
 
L

lendini

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
thank you all so much indeed for your proffessoinal knowledge on this matter,once again you are all stars to the forum.like the m4 wall anchors as i have used before on holding shelves up in my bedroom etc.if i make the hole big enough in the tile to accept the anchor flange and then drill out the plasterboard smaller diameter to accept the shank and wind the screw to open up the wings then take out the screw and place screen in place i think this should work fine.i own a 365 drill set and marcrist p180 kit.
Also if i am putting up small fittings ie toilet holder etc would you guys use the fittings supplied,rawl plugs and screws and use same method so screw and rawl plug is sittng below tile to avoid cracking

cheers Lee
 
S

sweaty sock

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
the wall anchors 38777 above are the strongest and need to be fitted after using a 15mm 365 drill bit as it needs to grip the plasterboard below to stop it rotating as u fit it - the screw provided will open out and set the legs in the wall tighten to set ,remove screw and then refasten to fixing -the only draw back is the 15mm hole so you need to see if the fixing to the wall will cover the hole -remember to silicone behind to seal hole :8: toefee
 
D

Deleted member 1779

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
Whenever I've fitted non load bearing items to any tile I've never gone beyond rawl plugs.



Even on the double loo roll holder above... (yes double we eat a lot of curry at our house) and in soft tiles.






 

whitebeam

Moderator
Staff member
Subscribed Member
Trusted Advisor
Tilers' Arms Member
Personally don,t like the toggle one,s, Just a little thing is if you ever dry line the wall ask where heavy fixtures are going radiators, toilet cistern and the like and add extra dabs of adhesive for more support
 
D

Deleted member 1779

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
Sweaty Sock makes a valid point. The 16mm drill is part of the all-in-one solution and can cut "plugs" out of a tile to allow access to the material behind.

If (and this is a general statement) you DONT want to use the tile as part of the solution for screws you can cut a plug out of a tile.

But as SS warns be sure the width at 16mm can be covered by your fitting. The 16mm size is included in the kit along with a 30mm and 40mm because these are the most common sizes for service pipes.

Even those self-drive anchors mentioned earlier (the ones I dont recomend..!) will fit inside the plug with room to spare. See:



In the above picture we have cut out a 16mm plug to fit a service pipe but this self drive anchor (below) is in shot



It will drop neatly into the socket and screw into the plasterboard behind.



The main call we get for this type of work is really for very heavy industrial applications like for example when screwing down free standing pay counters into airport terminal floors.

Usually the guys want to fix a steel bar into concrete with chemical anchors and like to cut a neat plug out of the tile without any risk of cracking it insitu.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
P

pjtiler

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
thank you all so much indeed for your proffessoinal knowledge on this matter,once again you are all stars to the forum.like the m4 wall anchors as i have used before on holding shelves up in my bedroom etc.if i make the hole big enough in the tile to accept the anchor flange and then drill out the plasterboard smaller diameter to accept the shank and wind the screw to open up the wings then take out the screw and place screen in place i think this should work fine.i own a 365 drill set and marcrist p180 kit.
Also if i am putting up small fittings ie toilet holder etc would you guys use the fittings supplied,rawl plugs and screws and use same method so screw and rawl plug is sittng below tile to avoid cracking

cheers Lee
thats a wrap then
sorted:thumbsup:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Have you entered in JOTM Comp?

  • Yes I have :)

    Votes: 7 63.6%
  • No I haven't but I will :)

    Votes: 1 9.1%
  • No but I will in the future :)

    Votes: 3 27.3%

Tiling Forum

Get free wall and floor tiling advice from TilersForums.com's Tiling Forum. Both DIY and professional wall and floor tilers use this forum to make sure their tiling is spot on.

Find a Tiler (New Entries)

Top Bottom