Electric UFH Warmup dcm pro heating

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Q

Qwerty

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  • #2
It could work..... if it's anything like the adhesive that impey use on their waterguard tanking it will be fine! Would be interested in getting hold of a sample for another forum test!
 
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Flintstone

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  • #3
That water guard stuff is like a butyl tape, this looks like it's clear! Takes a lot of faith to rely on that
 
Q

Qwerty

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  • #4
But the actual glue itself could be clear. The glue on conventional ufh mats is pretty good, just not enough of it. Imagine that on that 1m wide roll. Will be like the old Solvite adverts!!!


 

Mark Frost

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hi guys I use warm up dcm pro all the time. the self adhesion is increadle on how it works. it's the easiest ufh to use and it's quick. the adhesion actually gets stickier over time and once it's warmed up the glue gets better. it's great stuff and just trust it. I love it and it's doesn't cost as much as the others on the market. hope I've helped you on trusting it at first I wasn't sure but I've used it and not had a problem
 

Lee T

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hi guys I use warm up dcm pro all the time. the self adhesion is increadle on how it works. it's the easiest ufh to use and it's quick. the adhesion actually gets stickier over time and once it's warmed up the glue gets better. it's great stuff and just trust it. I love it and it's doesn't cost as much as the others on the market. hope I've helped you on trusting it at first I wasn't sure but I've used it and not had a problem
Do you Need to prime the floor prior to sticking the matt like water guard? Or not?
 
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Flintstone

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  • #7
On insulation boards no, as long as they are dust free. On cement boards yes
 

Ttt1601

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It's a cracking product!! My go to ufh system now, it's sticks like you k ow what to a blanket, and is the quickest system by far to install. Highly recommend it!!!!!!
 

Andy Tiler

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Yep same for me Warmup DCM PRO the quickest to install makes my life a lot easier top product
IMG_20171115_151913.jpg
 
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Flintstone

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2 and 3 row alterntive spacing gives 190w per m.
2 row gives 230w per m
And 3 row gives 150 if I remember correctly.
3 and 4 row alternating gives 130w per m
 

Albert

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2 and 3 row alterntive spacing gives 190w per m.
2 row gives 230w per m
And 3 row gives 150 if I remember correctly.
3 and 4 row alternating gives 130w per m
Thank you
 
F

Flintstone

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It’s a product I’m still not sure on, it comes at a premium price compared to other similar systems which you stick the mat down with adhesive but it goes down quicker. Your relying totally on the thin layer of glue for the whole job, and the castelations aren’t tapered just straight so not sure how the adhesive locks in?
 

Albert

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It’s a product I’m still not sure on, it comes at a premium price compared to other similar systems which you stick the mat down with adhesive but it goes down quicker. Your relying totally on the thin layer of glue for the whole job, and the castelations aren’t tapered just straight so not sure how the adhesive locks in?
I think with this system you have to self-level, unless i am
reading the instructions from your link wrong
 
F

Flintstone

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No Albert, you don’t have to but you can. I did self level but I wouldn’t next time
 

Andy Tiler

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I think with this system you have to self-level, unless i am
reading the instructions from your link wrong
After using hundreds of mtrs Albert i would prefer to self level over the matt. with levelling compounds now setting in 45 mins its a doddle.. if ever a tile needs changing and easier see your chalk lines when setting out
 

Bopster

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Thread resurrection time lol
I installed loads of warmup before but not the mat system. Kitchen I’m doing in the new year will have this type of system over a concrete slab with porcelain tiles. Height increase will be critical, obviously 10mm insulation boards set in flexible adhesive on the primed slab would be better but will 6mm boards be enough? I’ll Slc ontop of mat before flex adhesive and tile
 
Q

Qwerty

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Why are you using SLC over the top rather than tile adhesive? I know it can be done with SLC but interested to hear why. I'm assuming its the levels?
 

Bopster

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Not level issue just future proofing really, tiles can be removed without damage to ufh
 
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Flintstone

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  • #22
I would just tile it in one without levelling whenever possible, I have done it both ways. I would only level if the floor needs it .
 
F

Flintstone

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Is it specifically DCM pro that you are using ?
 

Bopster

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Was going to be but doesn’t have to, just that used there products loads so familiar and trust
 
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Flintstone

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Be carefull which boards you use under DCM pro as there can be issues with some of the more textured boards out there.
 

Bopster

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Was going to us warmup 10mm as used them loads before. Like to keep all same manufacturer for ufh so if there an issue they got no issues
 

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