Underfloor heating questions - Tile Advice

[Dumbo]

Glued means use adhesive . As regards height it is what it is . It's function over form . After a while you won't notice the height difference and wonder what the fuss was about especially if you fix a purpose made threshold out of timber to accommodate the difference . But if your ufh doesnt work properly it will always not work properly and you won't get over that .

 

[Andy Rhodes]

Dan I would bedded the insulation boards on a 6-8mm flexible adhesive bed mechanically fix the boards down then with the fitting that go with the boards which you can get from the company that supplied the board the UFH matting normal has a sticky side which isn't all the great so I would use a stable gun to hold down the matting but nowhere near the heating wire as you only what to hold it in place until you've screed over the matting with a levelling screed by doing this you with optimise the full function of your UFH , as it will distribute the heat equally all over the floor making it most cost efficient to heat

 

[Uheat - Jake]

If you're going onto a screed you can use the XPS Insualtion boards.

We recommend these are stuck down with a 2mm bed of adhesive. These don't need to be mechanically fixed as there's no bounce on a solid concrete floor. Mechanically fixing is only really used with Timber subfloor.

 

[Dan Ryan]

Aha yeh you meant tile adhesive , I'm not up with the terminology!

What total build height do you think I'm looking at?

I'm also thinking of using carpet shims and thick underlay when the carpet gets replaced to make up some of the height difference to the finished tiled floor.Last thing I want is to have a proud threshold that we keep tripping over.

 

[Uheat - Jake]

The usual build up is around 18-20mm before tiles. You normally have the following,
2mm adhesive bed for insulation
6mm insulation
4mm heating mat
6-8 flexible slc

 

[Dan Ryan]

Thanks I've heard 25-30mm. That 5mm will make quite a difference, with the transition to the future carpeted room.10mm underlay and 12mm carpet. Ive then got 8mm to make up with carpet shims. Probably not a great finish as you'll see the slope and trip on it. Other option would be to screed the carpeted room's floor, but that will run into a small fortune I don't have.

 

[Andy Rhodes]

Is the carpet been laid on a solid floor or on floorboards

 

[Andy Rhodes]

by that i mean whats you base

 

[Dan Ryan]

by that i mean whats you base

On solid floor. Concrete screed.

 

[Andy Rhodes]

you could possibly build up the carpeted area on the green minerals boards the use for lamnate flooring lay your underlay on that then your carpet if need be double layer it that between 7-9 mm thick or screw down 12mm marine plywood down to raise the floor up that would be cheaper the levelling screed as that come in 8 x 4 sheets

 

[Spare Tool]

Just feather a gentle ramp 50cm out of the door with half a bag of tile adhesive, 8mm over 50cm is nothing..

 

[Dan Ryan]

That's a similar method to the carpet shims. Im a bit weary of putting down mineral board on a concrete floor, even with a marine board in case I get damp problems.

 

[Andy Rhodes]

If you've got damp problems or if you get them, then the underlay and carpet are going act like a sponge and soak it up anyway, is the concrete new

 

[Dan Ryan]

no been down about 10 years.

 

[Andy Rhodes]

is there any sign of damp or has there been