Discuss To tank or not in the Tanking and Wetrooms Forum area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

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Hi

I am having my bathroom refitted with shower tray and glass screen, bath taken out and all tiles removed, plasterer coming to plaster full bathroom. Guy doing the bathroom work states tanking not neccessary when the walls have been plasterered, you only need to tank when tiles are going on walls and floor, and he also did not price for tanking and this would involve extra costs, would rather be out of pocket now rather than later. My son says the shower area should be water proofed.

Just worried if tanking is not done and I then have problem further down the line, all advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Joshjupp

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I personally quote for all wet areas to be tanked it’s then down to the customer if they don’t want it but I do advise to have it tanked
 

Boggs

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Save the cost of having the wet area plastered and spend it on a liquid tanking instead.

Tilemaster kit is around £50 retail.
 
O

Old Mod

Hi and welcome to the forum

Firstly how much tiling is being done?
Secondly why are you having the whole room plastered?
I’ll assume the shower area is being plastered by your remark above.

Guy doing the bathroom work states tanking not neccessary when the walls have been plasterered, you only need to tank when tiles are going on walls and floor,

Plaster in a wet area is asking for trouble further down the road.
Waste of money, far better spent on tanking wet areas.
What type of surface is being plastered?
As far as I’m aware the new BS5385 states that all new wet areas should be tanked.
The detail I’m unsure about is whether it’s exclusive to new builds or includes renovations.
Even if it is new builds only, it shows that it is now deemed best practice to tank wet areas.

If plaster board is being plastered, drop the plaster, especially if whole room is to be tiled.
You’re far better off tiling plasterboard, than you are plaster.
I’ll leave it there till we have more info.
 

Tony_C

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Kinda sounds like you want the tanking and he doesn't want to do it, i'd already be wondering else he doesn't do or wants to cut corners on. Good that you have done some research on it as it's clear he isn't really advising you best.

I'm the same as above in providing it as an option but I talk them through it and most folk now say yes, I also don't charge an arm and a leg to do it.
 
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Hi and welcome to the forum

Firstly how much tiling is being done?
Secondly why are you having the whole room plastered?
I’ll assume the shower area is being plastered by your remark above.



Plaster in a wet area is asking for trouble further down the road.
Waste of money, far better spent on tanking wet areas.
What type of surface is being plastered?
As far as I’m aware the new BS5385 states that all new wet areas should be tanked.
The detail I’m unsure about is whether it’s exclusive to new builds or includes renovations.
Even if it is new builds only, it shows that it is now deemed best practice to tank wet areas.

If plaster board is being plastered, drop the plaster, especially if whole room is to be tiled.
You’re far better off tiling plasterboard, than you are plaster.
I’ll leave it there till we have more info.
Hi thanks for replying
The bathroom has bn ripped out and the walls are uneven hence fully plastered, no boards plaster coming tomorrow. Should plaster board be used instead of plastering the walls
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Hi thanks for replying
The bathroom has bn ripped out and the walls are uneven hence fully plastered, no boards plaster coming tomorrow. Should plaster board be used instead of plastering the walls
Whole bathroom being tiled
 
O

Old Mod

60 x 30 gray porcelain tile
Yeah if they’re 7 mm thick and above, they’re technically too heavy for plaster I’m afraid.
Porcelain is approx 2.4kg per mm per metre.
Plaster has a weight limit of approx 20kgm2
Plasterboard 32kgm2
With adhesive, 7mm porcelain is approx 21kgm2
If you total peace of mind and longevity, you should consider plasterboard in dry areas and wedi style cement board in wet areas. (Not cament board like Hardiebacker) wedi style is waterproof, Hardie is not, it still needs to be tanked.
In a perfect world you would have wedi style boards all round.
Or maybe even a waterproof render if it’s to brick work.
I realise it’s very late in the day, but you did ask in time.
Tough choices to make now.
 

Tile Fix Direct

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3-Fall's comments make a lot of sense. We supply Orbry waterproof backer board that could be used in the tiled areas instead of plasterboard. Plaster as a substrate for tiling is not suitable for tiles over 7mm, or less if you apply a wet waterproof coating to the plaster.
 
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Yeah if they’re 7 mm thick and above, they’re technically too heavy for plaster I’m afraid.
Porcelain is approx 2.4kg per mm per metre.
Plaster has a weight limit of approx 20kgm2
Plasterboard 32kgm2
With adhesive, 7mm porcelain is approx 21kgm2
If you total peace of mind and longevity, you should consider plasterboard in dry areas and wedi style cement board in wet areas. (Not cament board like Hardiebacker) wedi style is waterproof, Hardie is not, it still needs to be tanked.
In a perfect world you would have wedi style boards all round.
Or maybe even a waterproof render if it’s to brick work.
I realise it’s very late in the day, but you did ask in time.
Tough choices to make now.
Thank you for the info, if Wedi board is used in the shower area, it does not need to be tanked? If the walls are uneven or holed wld u just put up the boards and the tile on top this is definitely a minefield for me, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and hopefully give me price of mind.
 
O

Old Mod

if Wedi board is used in the shower area, it does not need to be tanked?

Only board joints, transitions and mechanical fixings need to be tanked.
If you are using actual Wedi you can glue edges with their 610 adhesive which is waterproof.
Then only mechanical fixings need to be done.
There are other boards available that do the same job, it’s just that wedi boards are easily searchable, so that you can see what type of board they are.
They do happen to be top end tho.
You can straighten walls with the boards.
Take manufacturer recommendations on what adhesives to use.
You can dan the back of the board with adhesive and using larger or less amounts erect the boards plumb. When adhesive is dry, use mechanical fixings thro the dabs. (Mark their position when sticking to wall) there are required numbers of dabs per sheet, again take manufacturers advice.
You should end up with something like this.

Sorry have Probs with images, I’ll try sort it.
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314243A5-E1FB-441C-82AC-60C690560EEC.jpeg
9661C7B7-5C01-4BA6-B721-0982DFB15706.jpeg
400E8E30-B1DA-4FDC-8371-06DEE77D9471.jpeg
 

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