Discuss Tiling on underfloor heating. in the Tiling over Electric Underfloor Heating area at TilersForums.com

MalcyB

TF
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
18
Reactions
9
Location
Lincoln
Hi all.
I hope you will be able to guide me on this.
I am going to be tiling the floor of our new conservatory, but want to make sure it is done right.
It has the JG Speedfit 30 pack wet underfloor heating installed. The screed was done by Speedscreed and they used sharp sand & kerachem eco. This was done 14th Feb.
The boiler was changed about 3 weeks ago and I have only just had minimum heat going through the screed.
I am going to install a de-coupling mat and porcelain tiles will be laid on top. (which de-coupler do you recommend?)
My question is, do I still need to gradually turn up the heat on the ufh to get the screed ready for tiling, as in the JG speedfit instructions?
It's just I had to turn it up to 28deg to get it to come on the other day!
Sorry for the long post.
Thanks
malc
 

Andy Allen

TF
Esteemed
Arms
Joined
Feb 4, 2010
Messages
13,737
Reactions
18,373 184
Location
Gloucester
Yes commission the ufh before you tile this allows the screed to expand and contract.
Imo you don't need to use a decoupling mat with a porcelain tile ....but for the belt and braces approach....ditra is a safe bet.
When it's tiled leave the heating off for 2 to 3 weeks then turn it on VERY SLOWLY Just a few degrees each day till it's at working temperature .
 

MalcyB

TF
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
18
Reactions
9
Location
Lincoln
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Thanks for the reply
Why not use a de-coupler with porcelain then?
 
F

Flintstone

If your concerned about the screed being dry then ditra will cover you for that if you stick it down with something like tilemaster ultimate
 

MalcyB

TF
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
18
Reactions
9
Location
Lincoln
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
Hi Sorry for taking so long to reply, been away.
Thanks for the replies. As the screed has been down four months and I have had the heat going through it for the last couple of weeks. I would have thought it would have dried out by now?
Is there any way of checking it is dry? Would a basic moisture meter be accurate enough?
Malc
 

Andy Allen

TF
Esteemed
Arms
Joined
Feb 4, 2010
Messages
13,737
Reactions
18,373 184
Location
Gloucester
After 4 months and the heat running through it should imagine it's more than dry enough...
Basic moisture meters are a waste of time you need a carbide bomb to test it properly....
 

MalcyB

TF
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
18
Reactions
9
Location
Lincoln
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
I thought it should be by now. Thanks for all the replies.
 
N

Natwasere

Hi Sorry for taking so long to reply, been away.
Thanks for the replies. As the screed has been down four months and I have had the heat going through it for the last couple of weeks. I would have thought it would have dried out by now?
Is there any way of checking it is dry? Would a basic moisture meter be accurate enough?
Malc
Minimum heat is not enough, turn it up... you need that up to full heat for a couple days to exhaust any cracks imo. Tiled a floor that had been down 18months and when it went up to full it split. It went through floor and tile and didn't come back after repairing so lesson learned there.
 
T

Tilerdurden

Minimum heat is not enough, turn it up... you need that up to full heat for a couple days to exhaust any cracks imo. Tiled a floor that had been down 18months and when it went up to full it split. It went through floor and tile and didn't come back after repairing so lesson learned there.
Was an uncoupler used?
 
N

Natwasere

Was an uncoupler used?

No it wasn't, however the cause was the initial turning on splitting the concrete. Just saying wack it up first to let it do it's thing then turn off to tile..... look at specs of adhesives rtf and they do state that in places. Luckily I hadn't grouped it so it wasn't a problem and since then its been good.
 
T

Tilerdurden

No it wasn't, however the cause was the initial turning on splitting the concrete. Just saying wack it up first to let it do it's thing then turn off to tile..... look at specs of adhesives rtf and they do state that in places. Luckily I hadn't grouped it so it wasn't a problem and since then its been good.
To be honest I don't install a floor without one. Belt and braces approach every time for me. Call me anal but I prefer to cross all the i's and dot all the t's :tearsofjoy:
 
N

Natwasere

To be honest I don't install a floor without one. Belt and braces approach every time for me. Call me anal but I prefer to cross all the i's and dot all the t's :tearsofjoy:
Tbh I agree if there is scope for matting then do it. But please please just turn it up for a couple days just exhaust the initial cracks.
 

Reply to Tiling on underfloor heating. in the Tiling over Electric Underfloor Heating area at TilersForums.com

uHeat Official Forum Sponsor for Underfloor Heating (Electric and Wet)
This official sponsor may provide discounts for members

New Threads (Sitewide)

The Wetroom Store - TilersForums.com Sponsor
This official sponsor may provide discounts for members
Top Bottom
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks

Use TilersForums.com to find Tiling Jobs or your Local Tilers for free. Get tiling tools at the best prices via the forum.