Tiling on polypipe ufh overlay boards - Tile Advice

[prbrown]

Hi Newbie here (DIY - small jobs only!)
Need to get a pro in to do a floor (35m2 or so kitchen/utility room) which has had polypipe ufh overlay boards freshly laid down. Tiling with a 600 x 300 porcelain floor tile.
Question is what is the best option to tile on the boards - poly pipe have give various answers depending on what time of day i call from tile direct on top (with flexible adhesive), put down a membrane (ditra tilmaster etc) through to you should put down hardie backer boards first!
I'm trying to keep the floor build up to a minimum (as well as cost!) but dont want to cause problems down the line if leaks / new floors needed etc.
Any advices on best way forward appreciated. eg is there a thinner cheaper alternative to hardie backer boards that wont act as a heat barrier?
thx paul

 

[Old Mod]

Hi and welcome to the forum Paul.
There was a thread similar to this last week.
Have a read, if you have more questions that’s absolutely fine.
There are two methods explained, my preference is toward the end.
Hope this helps.

Tiling on underfloor heating warm panel - Tiling Advice

Hi all, I've put water underfloor heating down in our bathroom using "ProWarm Warm panel" which are panels with premade tracks for the pipes in wet rooms. The panels are glued together but not glued down (consistent with manufacturers instruction) and with plastic end panels which enables the...

www.tilersforums.com

 

[prbrown]

many thanks - thats really useful
so hardie backer boards wouldnt be your preferred route - Humm
reason i thought these would be good is to give areas (around walls/pipe return/doorways with exposed pipes runs) a level surface to tile against. eg see photo
i dont really want to use a SLC/adhesive to enclose the pipes - polypipe dont recomend/guarantee that
if i use detra25 matting my guess is the pipes would be covered by adhesive so a bit of catch 22.
the boards build up more and will cost a bit more (but not significant when adhesive/time etc taken into account) but will be easier to lay (i think/assume) - 6mm is a bind though!
ps the doorway and return are going to have to have an insulation board (10/12mm) under those pipes which the builder "neglected" to remember to fit !!! so the pipes will be flush with the overlay boards.

 

[Old Mod]

Do you have a copy of polypipes installation guide lines?
when using slc over polypipe it will not cause pipes to lift,,as far as I’m aware that was an old theory they had.
once the slc has been laid use a 1mm antifracture mat instead. Ditra matting is overkill.
[automerge]1570734918[/automerge]
To keep guarantees in tact then following their guide lines is all you can do.

 

[Bill]

I have tiled directly to poly pipe boards.......no problems ....would I do the same method again?

No - I would use a suitable primer first but I wouldn't necessarily use an SLC as I don't see the point if the floor is level.

I used Norcross adhesive too so not one of the heavyweights in adhesive terms.

Sometimes your gut instinct will tell you if it will work or not.

 

[Old Mod]

I would use a suitable primer first but I wouldn't necessarily use an SLC as I don't see the point if the floor is level.

Using the SLC Tom gives a a solid one piece floor with excellent and even transfer of heat.
and if you pressurise the system with cold water before hand to around 5 bar, you create enough room for the pipes to expand and contract during heating cycles.
and with an antifracture mat the whole system works really well.

yeah, instinct can go a long way.

 

[prbrown]

polypipe advices seem to change hourly - no much in writing other than tech specs on website (u can tile direct on top or board over-use c2 adhesive!)

 

[Old Mod]

polypipe advices seem to change hourly - no much in writing other than tech specs on website (u can tile direct on top or board over-use c2 adhesive!)

I couldn’t even find that last night.
mare you sure it says C2?