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Chelly

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Sorry posted this accidentally on the general forum.

Hello I am currently in dispute with Wickes bathroom installation as they have fitted my wall tiles and I have cut slivers as the last course where the wall meets the ceiling. They blamed it on an uneven ceiling however I have argued that regardless of the uneven ceiling the last course cuts should have been larger and would have been if the area had been set out and measured correctly. Suggesting that if the first course (at the bath) was cut the last course cut would have been larger and better in appearance. They said that British standards state the the first course at the bath must be a full tile. I cannot find this BS and the only one I can find is one that states cuts should be kept to a minimum and be as large as possible. Who is right here and do you agree this is a poor quality install?107047
 

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It's not great to be honest, but it's serviceable and fit for purpose.

Whilst it could look better, legally there's probably not a great deal you can do about it. As all the law will look at is if the install has been done and is fit for purpose.

It's unfortunate that a contrasting grout has been chosen as this highlights the problem further.

If it bothers you that much I'd be inclined to fit a small cove or similar to the ceiling to disguise the problem.
 

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I'm pretty sure that it's not in British standards to start a full tile from the bath. @Paul C. Could confirm this.
The transitions should be a silicone joint which should be in British standards. It's a bad job and I think they're lying about the B. S.
 

Chelly

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Thanks for your honesty, is it law to start with a full tile as they have stated?
 

Chelly

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I'm pretty sure that it's not in British standards to start a full tile from the bath. @Paul C. Could confirm this.
The transitions should be a silicone joint which should be in British standards. It's a bad job and I think they're lying about the B. S.
Thanks @hmtiling that fills me with hope!
 

hmtiling

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Thanks for your honesty, is it law to start with a full tile as they have stated?
British standards aren't regulations but guidelines. It is in those guidelines to waterproof wet areas though and I'd wager they haven't. Throw that back at them. The threat of posting all over social media usually works with big firms too. Good luck
 

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British standards aren't regulations but guidelines. It is in those guidelines to waterproof wet areas though and I'd wager they haven't. Throw that back at them. The threat of posting all over social media usually works with big firms too. Good luck
Thanks, I was tempted to post on social media but was worried it may harm my case :)
 

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“BS states full tile off bath”...

Best I go back and re-tile 50% of jobs I have ever completed then!
 

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Unfortunately setting out issue...Not really much can be done other than add a small cove detail
Or remove top course and slither/ introduce a listello border then larger cut... or .... rip out and start again
The darker grout does emphasise it
Have definitely seen worse
 

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As @hmtiling
Said ask them if they have waterproofed the walls before tiling as that is in British standards also as @Boggs
Said I have tiled an awful lot of bathrooms where I haven't tiled a whole tile of the bath , and yes do not get confused as to what british standards are they are a code of good practice and not even building regs .
 

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And yes they should of siliconed the corner where the tiles meet also have they siliconed next to the bath
 

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And yes they should of siliconed the corner where the tiles meet also have they siliconed next to the bath
They have white siliconed the tile/ bath join however it seems to be peeling away a little. There is translucent silicone in the corners however one side seems to be yellowing?
 

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They have white siliconed the tile/ bath join however it seems to be peeling away a little. There is translucent silicone in the corners however one side seems to be yellowing?
It's no good siliconing over grout in the corners, this joint is meant to be free of grout and adhesive, this is a movement joint , British standards therefore they should know this (hint of sarcasm ) . I would of done that in a colour match silicone but that would be more expensive that generic cheapo silicone .
 

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It's no good siliconing over grout in the corners, this joint is meant to be free of grout and adhesive, this is a movement joint , British standards therefore they should know this (hint of sarcasm ) . I would of done that in a colour match silicone but that would be more expensive that generic cheapo silicone .
Cheers this for the info this is a great help!
 
S

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Think theyre feeding you some real BS tbh.. That's not been set out, they've just trusted to luck, a different size spacer, either changing from 2 to 3mm or vice versa could have made all the difference with your ceiling cut..
 

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Depending on how the room sets out determins whether you have full tiles on the bath or not. You usually dont because baths are rarely set level lol. Nobody bothered setting out that room and theyve been found out. Theyre talking bollards
 

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Think theyre feeding you some real BS tbh.. That's not been set out, they've just trusted to luck, a different size spacer, either changing from 2 to 3mm or vice versa could have made all the difference with your ceiling cut..
Thank you Andy that is one thing I didn’t think of.
 

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Depending on how the room sets out determins whether you have full tiles on the bath or not. You usually dont because baths are rarely set level lol. Nobody bothered setting out that room and theyve been found out. Theyre talking bollards
Yes they have! Just need to get them (wickes) to listen now :)
 

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Am I the only one who thinks the ceiling should be level? Why spend all that money and have a poor finish?
I did have the ceiling walls skimmed and wasn’t aware that it wasn’t level until that was another excuse given by the installer. I did ask why he didn’t tell me at time of skimming he said he didn’t know. If I had known I would have rectified that. Ignorance on my part.
 

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The ceiling is out by 20mm...... It will always show on 200x100 tiles
I understand there would have been a 20mm graduation, however if the tile was larger it would not have been so noticeable. Instead you have sliver cuts?
 

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It will show but won't poke you in the eyes as it does now
What I mean is, still using the same size tile as I have, I understand that I would have had a 20mm graduation but if he had set out probably the final tile would have been a larger cut so not do noticeable?
 

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There is possibly a chance they measured up on the shower wall only and deemed the 20mm or so cut acceptable but had no idea the ceiling was so out until it was too late when it got to another wall. not saying it's acceptable just an idea as to how it happened to them

As suggested you could get a coving up or possibly a big white silicone line to at least cover that cut that is purely grout as it could take your eye away from that and make it look more like just a grout line
 
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Regardless of the fact that the ceiling may be out of level, if you tried that set out on site, you’d be lucky not to be swinging from the scaffold, but I suppose more likely sent off site never to return or be paid.
Good practice is to have at least one third of a tile as a cut, some QS want larger, but a third is generally acceptable.
Last time I was on site anyway. :)

And as far as a full tile off the bath goes, if we did that, 90% of our work would be out of level.
 
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Am I the only one who thinks the ceiling should be level? Why spend all that money and have a poor finish?
No you’re not Tom, do you refuse to tile a room then if the ceiling isn’t level? :p Haha
 

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Regardless of the fact that the ceiling may be out of level, if you tried that set out on site, you’d be lucky not to be swinging from the scaffold, but I suppose more likely sent off site never to return or be paid.
Good practice is to have at least one third of a tile as a cut, some QS want larger, but a third is generally acceptable.
Last time I was on site anyway. :)

And as far as a full tile off the bath goes, if we did that, 90% of our work would be out of level.
Haha Thanks @3_fall
 

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No you’re not Tom, do you refuse to tile a room then if the ceiling isn’t level? :p Haha
No but 99% of the tilers on here keep banging on about how things are done .... blah blah blah .....so why not go ape about the ceiling like you would do if the walls were not plumb and flat.

A little bit hypocritical methinks, sometimes.
 
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At what point does the customer inform the plasterer it must be level not 20mm out over 3 metres oh and they've picked metros...
Plasterer turns up JUST to skim ceiling as booked, just as he's mixed a bucket of skim customer informs him it must be level, plasterer then rings tiler to drop everything and immediatley rush over to site FOC, pings a datum round the room and set ceiling up, by this time plasterers skims gone off and ruined his gorilla tub... Plasterer shouts and screams and walks off job..
Next available plasterer that can get there throws all the schedules out and tilers and plumbers are not now available, so plasterer says "I've done a bit of tiling and plumbing" he ends up tiling it and making a right mess of fixing and the set out, connects shower up and floods the house, and customer then ends back up on here complaining about the job..full circle..
You know the script in the real world Tom, it won't happen..
Ps. No offense @widler
 
O

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I think it's a shame that someone uses a nationwide firm to do some work which wouldn't be cheap and ends up with a below par job.
We know better and have hindsight but I think as a customer you kind of expect wickes to be offering more than Joe blogs tiling services from the yellow pages.
Absolute rubbish from wickes and their excuses are as ill-thought out as the set out.
I'd love to have a chat with whoever is in charge...
 

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I think it's a shame that someone uses a nationwide firm to do some work which wouldn't be cheap and ends up with a below par job.
We know better and have hindsight but I think as a customer you kind of expect wickes to be offering more than Joe blogs tiling services from the yellow pages.
Absolute rubbish from wickes and their excuses are as ill-thought out as the set out.
I'd love to have a chat with whoever is in charge...
You would think so wouldn’t you! Unfortunately they don’t seem to be very chatty:p
 

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Sorry, bit late to the party on this one, but here goes:

BS5385 part 1-2018 - 7.1.5 Setting out
Unsightly cut tiles should be avoided
and joints should be of a uniform width, true to a line, continuous without steps: allowance should be made for an adequate width of joint. Cut course, both vertical and horizontal, should be:
a) kept to a minimum
b) determined in advance
c) as large as possible

d) arranged in the least prominent locations

Where wall surfaces are interrupted by features, e.g. windows, access panels or sanitary fittings, the tile fixer should seek guidance from the designer as to the setting out to be adopted; similar guidance might be required in the positioning of movement joints, since they are predominant and could determine the setting out pattern.

Horizontal joints and cut courses should be positioned depending on several factors, of which the following are examples.
1) Tiled areas that adjoin or are adjacent should be set out so that horizontal joints are aligned
2) The upper and/or lower extremities of the wall might not be level, requiring a course or courses to be cut with a raking edge. Wherever possible, the horizontal joints should be positioned so that the whole of the rake can be taken up within the height of the tile in the cut course.
3) If it is thought desirable to align a joint with a feature, this becomes the setting out point and might initiate the need for, and frequently dictate the location of, cut courses elsewhere.
4) To ensure the rows are truly horizontal, a level line should be established to position the starting course. This line should be continuous across all tile surfaces.
 

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Have you thought about getting a report from The Tile Association done? Not sure of the cost off hand.
I looked at this last night, think it is about £800 for a report but I will give them a ring, seems pricey but maybe a last resort
 

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Who are you feeling with is it the fitter or the contracts manager . Are you speaking to him or communicating by email, are you copying in the branch manager ,
 

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Who are you feeling with is it the fitter or the contracts manager . Are you speaking to him or communicating by email, are you copying in the branch manager ,
Unfortunately the fitter has washed his hands of it. What happens next is remedial fitters come to complete snags, arranged by Wickes customer services. As I listed a number of issues including tiles and items that have not yet been completed then it gets escalated to customer relations who is the go between. They are liaising with the installation manager who is the one who said when he came to inspect that it is British Standard to start with full tile at bath and that he believes that this is acceptable work. He doesn’t respond to their emails and just doesn’t seem to care. If they phone me I follow up with an email. Wickes guarantee all of the work so my beef is with them.
 

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“Fitter’s washes his hands of it”
How can he, surely he is the one responsible as he was the one who fitted it.
 

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Sorry, bit late to the party on this one, but here goes:

BS5385 part 1-2018 - 7.1.5 Setting out
Unsightly cut tiles should be avoided
and joints should be of a uniform width, true to a line, continuous without steps: allowance should be made for an adequate width of joint. Cut course, both vertical and horizontal, should be:
a) kept to a minimum
b) determined in advance
c) as large as possible

d) arranged in the least prominent locations

Where wall surfaces are interrupted by features, e.g. windows, access panels or sanitary fittings, the tile fixer should seek guidance from the designer as to the setting out to be adopted; similar guidance might be required in the positioning of movement joints, since they are predominant and could determine the setting out pattern.

Horizontal joints and cut courses should be positioned depending on several factors, of which the following are examples.
1) Tiled areas that adjoin or are adjacent should be set out so that horizontal joints are aligned
2) The upper and/or lower extremities of the wall might not be level, requiring a course or courses to be cut with a raking edge. Wherever possible, the horizontal joints should be positioned so that the whole of the rake can be taken up within the height of the tile in the cut course.
3) If it is thought desirable to align a joint with a feature, this becomes the setting out point and might initiate the need for, and frequently dictate the location of, cut courses elsewhere.
4) To ensure the rows are truly horizontal, a level line should be established to position the starting course. This line should be continuous across all tile surfaces.
Thank you so much Paul, and the party is still going strong :p , will definitely be sending this information to them. You have all be such a great help thank you!
 

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“Fitter’s washes his hands of it”
How can he, surely he is the one responsible as he was the one who fitted it.
You would think, however they all think he has done a great job
 

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Thank you so much Paul, and the party is still going strong :p , will definitely be sending this information to them. You have all be such a great help thank you!
sorry, i was wrong
 

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Sorry, bit late to the party on this one, but here goes:

BS5385 part 1-2018 - 7.1.5 Setting out
Unsightly cut tiles should be avoided
and joints should be of a uniform width, true to a line, continuous without steps: allowance should be made for an adequate width of joint. Cut course, both vertical and horizontal, should be:
a) kept to a minimum
b) determined in advance
c) as large as possible

d) arranged in the least prominent locations

Where wall surfaces are interrupted by features, e.g. windows, access panels or sanitary fittings, the tile fixer should seek guidance from the designer as to the setting out to be adopted; similar guidance might be required in the positioning of movement joints, since they are predominant and could determine the setting out pattern.

Horizontal joints and cut courses should be positioned depending on several factors, of which the following are examples.
1) Tiled areas that adjoin or are adjacent should be set out so that horizontal joints are aligned
2) The upper and/or lower extremities of the wall might not be level, requiring a course or courses to be cut with a raking edge. Wherever possible, the horizontal joints should be positioned so that the whole of the rake can be taken up within the height of the tile in the cut course.
3) If it is thought desirable to align a joint with a feature, this becomes the setting out point and might initiate the need for, and frequently dictate the location of, cut courses elsewhere.
4) To ensure the rows are truly horizontal, a level line should be established to position the starting course. This line should be continuous across all tile surfaces.
should, could, where possible.......
seems very vague
very different from uni standards.
they must be is better than they should.
or is the translator wrong?
 

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I'm pretty sure that it's not in British standards to start a full tile from the bath. @Paul C. Could confirm this.
The transitions should be a silicone joint which should be in British standards. It's a bad job and I think they're lying about the B. S.
Absolutely nonsense and misinformation BS is not a about that , its only a guideline for standard practice .
 

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I look at all trades and the crap they dish out , and a tiler is caught out by a crap ceiling not level nor probably walls plumb , and the whole world condemns the job .
take a look at yourselves is this really worth a dispute .
ok he should have checked the cuts to ceiling but seriously some of the dib and dab jobs on floors is more significant obviously because of the cost of fixing broken tiles.
 

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I look at all trades and the crap they dish out , and a tiler is caught out by a crap ceiling not level nor probably walls plumb , and the whole world condemns the job .
take a look at yourselves is this really worth a dispute .
ok he should have checked the cuts to ceiling but seriously some of the dib and dab jobs on floors is more significant obviously because of the cost of fixing broken tiles.
I certainly wouldn't let it slide if it was my house. Are you saying you would?
 

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I look at all trades and the crap they dish out , and a tiler is caught out by a crap ceiling not level nor probably walls plumb , and the whole world condemns the job .
take a look at yourselves is this really worth a dispute .
ok he should have checked the cuts to ceiling but seriously some of the dib and dab jobs on floors is more significant obviously because of the cost of fixing broken tiles.
"Caught out".... He wouldn't have been if he'd planned it correctly instead of being lazy and assuming a full tile from a convenient point would be ok. Setting out and good preparation is a tilers job, part of the service. Either the ceiling could have been sorted, tiles laid out to suit a bigger cut and less of an eye-sore, or have a discussion with the customer how to proceed, stick it in their court... Not wing it and say "sorry, best I could do".

So taking a look at myself as you asked and yes, I would still dispute. It looks arse. Aside from practicality, aesthetics is a huge part of why tiles are used. And that is certainly not aesthetically pleasing to me.
 
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I'm guessing the installer was on a price or on a time...I've always taken my time setting out purposely to avoid problems like this..if you've got a room with a bath, couple of windows and maybe a shower tray then it can take a while to get your head round how it's going to work out and I always discuss the layout with the client beforehand to make sure they're happy before I start fixing
 

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I'm guessing the installer was on a price or on a time...I've always taken my time setting out purposely to avoid problems like this..if you've got a room with a bath, couple of windows and maybe a shower tray then it can take a while to get your head round how it's going to work out and I always discuss the layout with the client beforehand to Makel sure they're happy before I start fixing

Fully agree Tim. I find it the most interesting / stressful part. Especially with small tiles. Take your time. Check and re check and it works out fine. Also. There is usually a compromise somewhere. As you say check with client. Get them to sign off on all final decisions
 

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Ask the client how to set the room out!
That’s why they are paying you - to do a professional job.
Clients away on holiday, that’s okay I’ll send him a photo of how it’s going to look - he’s going to be really confident in your ability.
What’s been done is sh*te and these chancers do our trade no favours.
 

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I agree John. I advise clients on what I wil do and look best. However they are the ones that have to look at it forever. If they are happy i am

To avoid any conflation of posts. I agree John the work op posted is rubbish
 
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I would say that almost all of my bathroom jobs have a cut or trimmed tile at the bath ( or shower tray)to avoid that awful finish at ceiling level or anywhere else.
 

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Hi all, it’s been a while but the dispute is still ongoing. They are now saying that they had to start with a full tile at the bath due to metro tile choice, is this correct? See their reply
We are of the belief that based on the tile selection being bevelled edged, that starting with a cut above the bath, would lead to a greater risk of water ingress as well as less aesthetically pleasing due to the silicone line not being consistent.
 

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Hi all, it’s been a while but the dispute is still ongoing. They are now saying that they had to start with a full tile at the bath due to metro tile choice, is this correct? See their reply
We are of the belief that based on the tile selection being bevelled edged, that starting with a cut above the bath, would lead to a greater risk of water ingress as well as less aesthetically pleasing due to the silicone line not being consistent.
Nonsense
 

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Ask the client how to set the room out!
That’s why they are paying you - to do a professional job.
Clients away on holiday, that’s okay I’ll send him a photo of how it’s going to look - he’s going to be really confident in your ability.
What’s been done is sh*te and these chancers do our trade no favours.
Must have been on song that night - apologies!
 

Chelly

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Post automatically merged:

Thought so 108050

Regarding the vertical corner joints, they say.

Wickes Way of Working stipulates that grout is to be applied to all vertical joints as well as joints between wall and floor tiles etc.

Do you also know what size these corner joints should be as some areas are as small as 1 - 2mm?
 

hmtiling

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Post automatically merged:

Thought so View attachment 108050

Regarding the vertical corner joints, they say.

Wickes Way of Working stipulates that grout is to be applied to all vertical joints as well as joints between wall and floor tiles etc.

Do you also know what size these corner joints should be as some areas are as small as 1 - 2mm?
They're wrong(lying) again. All transitions between walls and floors should be siliconed as per adhesive manufacturer instructions. Find out what adhesive and grout they used and you could get that in writing from them
 

RayTheTiler

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you have a ceiling thats on the wonk re board ceiling and skim the tiling looks fine except the slither cut.
alternatively knock the whole house down and get them to get the joists level.:)
ps on my 6th can of Guinness may not be thinking straight but i feel great.
but im leveller than that ceiling lol
 

Balloo

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I tiled 6 full bathrooms 195mt in a house for a famous mr nesbit . For the golf open .
Total nightmare of a job herringbone on two of them o_O
 

Myrdaal

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No update as to what happened. so i'll throw in...Its almost definitely not British Standard. I work at the building site end of things, and Site managers love to show off their 'knowledge' of BS/NHBC standards. Cutting into the bath has NEVER been an issue. Having said that, they look like the 'metro' type tiles there, and cutting in wouldn't have looked good. That rip looks to be about 10mm at the widest, as Andystiletiling said, your tiler should have changed spacers to absorb it, it would be unnoticeable. Bit late now, but its my opinion dark grouts and white glazed tiles is never a good idea, it just highlights any imperfections, (and those small tiles are always a bit 'sizey') the bevel in the tiles would make it look just as good with white grout. :)
 

Chelly

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Thanks all for your help and the information you have provided me. Received the 1st positive email yesterday from them saying “you have clearly done your research”, offering a refund for the tiling or for the work to be redone.

I notice that most of you hate installing metro tiles, why are they so bad? They responded.....”The specific tiles you have chosen are notoriously problematic and whilst we are happy to reinstall replacements if this is what you decide, we would suggest an alternative tile is chosen to ensure the finish is completed in line with the standards you have quoted and to enable us to complete your bathroom to meet both yours and our expectations”
But I like metro tiles?! Would you advise against also? Not sure I trust them to redo the work, so thinking of getting a quote from a TTA approved tiler (Swansea area), if you know anyone willing to take on my work?
 

jcrtiling

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I don't like metros but that is a personal thing many tilers and I mean proper tilers , check their references are capable of producing quality work with metros,.
If you want a tta tiler log on to the tta website I'm sure you will find someone in your area .
************
 
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Andy Allen

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Any tiler worth there salt should be able to use metros and produce a high standard.
The reason tilers don't like them is because there time consuming, being a small tile, going around and inside windows take forever, and there difficult to grout because of the bevelle.
Personally, I don't mind them, as I tile alot of kitchens, and can't remember the last time I did one that wasn't metros...
 

jcrtiling

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Just be aware that nobody comes around from the tta to check the quality of Your work before accepting your membership , also things like checkatrade rely on reviews from customers who maybe can't tell the difference between a good and bad job .
Do your own research ,
 
O

On one

Nothing too problematic at all with Metro tiles......just certain setting out criteria to be aware of, which a capable tiler would be aware of.
I would be asking close personal friends for recommendations, not necessarily just via asking on social media sites.
 
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Another reason why metros or any smaller tile is a bad choice within a shower..... the grout joints! Far more grout to discolour. An Epoxy grout is one solution, also a grout sealer but they still do discolour. This is why large format tiles have become popular, also XL format has started to come through.
 

Tony_C

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Go for larger style brick tile and it will help avoid that slither at the top and probably having to start of a half tile, if it has to be wickes replacement tiles they have 300x200 & 400x150 available
 
Dan

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I think if they're brick fashion you have the old middle of the tile being thicker than the end so against a tile trim it looks terrible unless youve set it out to finish all external corners on 1/4 and 3/4 of the tile. So very limited setting out options width wise.

Thats a pain.
 

widler

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Metros look smart, but they are usually cheap , bent and sizey , I’ve just done 60m2 of them, bit bigger, 30x10cm, Johnson’s very own wicks shi it , bent , curled in at corners and sizey , they can run off a mountain side for all I care :)
 

Andy Allen

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Metros look smart, but they are usually cheap , bent and sizey , I’ve just done 60m2 of them, bit bigger, 30x10cm, Johnson’s very own wicks shi it , bent , curled in at corners and sizey , they can run off a mountain side for all I care :)
What grout did you use ??....:)
 

qualitywork

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Setting out is all to cock. Most good tilers would plan it so no small slithers are evident. Occasionally this cannot be avoided if you have large areas with lots of undulating levels to take into account. However, i haven't had a job in the last 2 decades where i had small slithers like this. Personally i would have gone 30% cuts on the bath and this would have resulted in an acceptable, but not perfect solution. I get many baths that are not straight anyway, and have to cut the row above bath to suit.
BTW, i used to tile for fitters from wickes and always the standard is awful. Also no decent tiler would work for the rates that wickes allow for. When i was doing kitchens, they allowed £25-£30 per metre on 4 metre splashes!
How can we as tilers do a quality job on those rates? Unless of course i am ridiculously slow.....

(A big hi to all the tilers on this forum!)
Best wishes
James
 

macten

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Glad you got a good result.
I did this one the other day. Set out with 2mm spacers (my 1st choice for metros) but would have ended up with raking slithers disappearing to nothing at the ceiling - exactly like what you've been left with.
Lost 16mm at the top by swapping to a 3mm spacer.
It's not rocket science. Nice to see a customer taking no crap!

IMG_0398.JPG
 

Chelly

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Glad you got a good result.
I did this one the other day. Set out with 2mm spacers (my 1st choice for metros) but would have ended up with raking slithers disappearing to nothing at the ceiling - exactly like what you've been left with.
Lost 16mm at the top by swapping to a 3mm spacer.
It's not rocket science. Nice to see a customer taking no crap!

View attachment 109078
Looks great! Unfortunately they are now playing silly buggers for the amount they will refund. Just out of interest, how much would you charge for removal of 6sqm of tiles and installing new ones?
 
W

WetSaw

Don't forget that removing the tiles may ( probably will..) damage the substrate so that will need putting right before tiling.
 

Chelly

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Prices are not discussed in open forum, but if you Pm a member from your local area they may be able to help.
Sorry about discussing prices on open forum. Doesn’t seem to be any members in my local area and how do you pm a member? Do you click on their profile and click “start a conversation”? There is a conversation on the open forum about prices, would it be ok to do it there or is it a no no :)
 

aytiling

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I think you're being over critical, you chose the worst grout possible for those tiles, and it's shown up in the ceiling. I've seen worse.

Are there other walls done, around a window maybe, to see what cut would have bee left on the head/sill?

That sliver (I wouldn't even call it that, I've done smaller cuts) wouldn't have looked so bad if the ceiling was level.

Simple solution, take light fitting down, over board, skim, paint, refit light. Kill 2 birds with one stone, small cut disappears and you won't notice the cocked up ceiling.
 
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i dont think its a must to start with full tile if you have done your calculation as an installer they should have raised the first tile to a certain height so that they will cut small out of the last tile on top the cutting one will not be visible then the off cut will finally transfer to the base to avoid this kind of situation.
Post automatically merged:

if your wall is not plum you can centralize your work by mark out the center of your wall make it your start point so that you can transfer your off cut to the corner of the wall,
if you wall is not flat why not ask the client to pay for re-plastering or re- rendering of the wall.
 
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Any good tiler would check the bath for level before even fixing a full tile off it in the first place! Make a gauge rod with tiles and joint (cant go wrong) mark a datum then using gauge rod to see if acceptable cut to ceiling at all points if not centre the wall vertically or centre centre tile to give best cuts. obviously too late now as tiler has tiled the room. Best easiest option is to maybe add another skin or 2 of plaster board to ceiling to eliminate the small cuts, or coving as someone suggested although not a conventional finish in a bathroom.
 

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