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acaciaguy

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I have a job coming up to tile on caberboard. 10mm porc. Floor is rock solid. Rather than overboard. I’m thinking decoupling mat. Any thoughts ?
 

Tile Fix Direct

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While Caberboard is moisture resistant fixing a de-coupling layer with https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ would lock moisture under sheet and may encourage board to take in some moisture and swell? Using an Ardex or similar high spec fast set https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ that locks moisture into the https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/ might be better, or even BAL Flexbone2easy that does not require https://www.tilersforums.com/forums/tile-adhesive/.
 

Boggs

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This was the last floor I took up with Ditra on Caber P5.

4AFD9E31-E0D1-48C5-9596-36903BC864E2.jpeg

I wouldn’t do it, 6mm Hardie every time.
 
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Bathroom?
I’d take it up and pop 22mm No More Ply down. Then your Ditra if you like. I’ve never been a fan of chipboard. It’s always close to changing shape when water is nearby. Or 18mm ply then thin no more ply or Hardiebacker or Aquapanel.
 
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Old Mod

Cement boards do not add to the structural integrity of a substrate, they are just an inert tileable substrate that is unaffected by moisture ingress,
and should not be used to strengthen a floor.
That’s according to manufacturers guidelines.
 
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acaciaguy

acaciaguy

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Thank you for the advice guys. It’s in a small kitchen. Not a wet area. Floor Is 18mm onto timber frame on a concrete slab. Boards are screwed to frame and floor is rock solid. No movement at all.
 
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Flintstone

Cement boards do not add to the structural integrity of a substrate, they are just an inert tileable substrate that is unaffected by moisture ingress,
and should not be used to strengthen a floor.
That’s according to manufacturers guidelines.

That's true for most although Tilemaster claim otherwise with there 6mm cement board.
 
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Nathan1978

Can any one tell me best way to get up the plastic it’s comeing off in mini bits and I’m pulling my hair out trying to get it all up
 

Ajax123

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Cement boards do not add to the structural integrity of a substrate, they are just an inert tileable substrate that is unaffected by moisture ingress,
and should not be used to strengthen a floor.
That’s according to manufacturers guidelines.
Hardi used to do one which can be used instead of floorboards but it was fearfully expensive and still needed mechanically fixing
 

Kevbos

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Please contribute to this thread if you have any new information or can even just reiterate what has been said already. :)
I have a job coming up to tile on caberboard. 10mm porc. Floor is rock solid. Rather than overboard. I’m thinking decoupling mat. Any thoughts ?
You need to add 18 to 22mm ply over the caberboard as it is not strong enough to tile over !usually that caberboard has joists further apart also !! I would never stick to that stuff anything !!
 

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