Shower tray former: tiles and waste height - Tile Advice

[Tony_C]

That same manufacturer does a tray with a drain that drops to 5mm for tile height, its unfortunately just the tray and drain you have ended up purchasing.

I don't think you will find any thin backer boards to over board that tray with (xps style) that will take the mosaics. Usually the shower trays themselves are stronger than building boards you can buy

 

[DazJWood]

That same manufacturer does a tray with a drain that drops to 5mm for tile height, its unfortunately just the tray and drain you have ended up purchasing.

I don't think you will find any thin backer boards to over board that tray with (xps style) that will take the mosaics. Usually the shower trays themselves are stronger than building boards you can buy

Ah OK. Yes must admit the tray to top of drain height was not something I looked at when purchasing the tray. Just didn't even consider it to be honest.

Surely though I could use 6mm Hardie backer board if I decided to go down the route of over boarding the tray. Why would it need to be XPS backer board?

 

[Tony_C]

It wouldn't have to be xps. I was just letting you know that the thinner 4mm boards probably wouldn't be an option. If you do opt for hardie just make sure you fully tank those boards also 👍.

I just perhaps see each extra layer added as another step for potential failure of not done 100%. Skip the headache and get bigger tiles

 

[DazJWood]

It wouldn't have to be xps. I was just letting you know that the thinner 4mm boards probably wouldn't be an option. If you do opt for hardie just make sure you fully tank those boards also 👍.

I just perhaps see each extra layer added as another step for potential failure of not done 100%. Skip the headache and get bigger tiles

Why would I need to tank the Hardie backer, if I chose to use it? The shower former has an XPS waterproof core. Raising the height of the former wouldn't then require the need to tank the top layer again, unless I'm missing something. What's the logic behind tanking it again?

 

[Tony_C]

Hardie isn't waterproof, just has a resistance to water. Yes your xps tray is waterproof but you don't want to be letting hardie sitting submerged in water it's the layer between the tiles and tray so it would be. You would want to help the water pass off it and not through it.

If your unsure read the hardie instructions or call them, Its stated in their manual to tank it also in a wetroom situation.

 

[J Sid]

Just buy some new tiles

 

[DazJWood]

Hardie isn't waterproof, just has a resistance to water. Yes your xps tray is waterproof but you don't want to be letting hardie sitting submerged in water it's the layer between the tiles and tray so it would be. You would want to help the water pass off it and not through it.

If your unsure read the hardie instructions or call them, Its stated in their manual to tank it also in a wetroom situation.

Yes I know that Hardie is water resistant only and not waterproof. It wouldn't be submerged in water; displacement would mean the water would sit above the top layer. Yes if left then the adhesive and hardie board would absorb some of the water; if the drain was blocked then yes it could soak through and down to the foam core below it.

It's the same as saying the tile adhesive under the tiles is submerged in water all the time.

Unless I'm missing something I can't see the need to tank again if I used Hardie to increase the height. Anyone else any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Daz

 

[hmtiling]

There's not many foam core formers that'll accept mosaic that small. Also, over boarding with xps you'll have the same issue.
I'd change the tiles but if I had to go the hardie route I'd tank it as otherwise you'll have a 7/8mm layer of absorbant material under the drain height as that former has no sub tile drainage. There's a possibility of efflorescence issues then as the water has nowhere else to go

 

[Tony_C]

You need the tanking to displace the water that reaches the hardie, not bare hardie which would soak it up rather than displace it. Water will pass through the grout and reach it unless you go down the epoxy route.

It's the same as saying the tile adhesive under the tiles is submerged in water all the time.

It's not. Whatever water would reach through to the tray/adhsesive would then run down the falls to the drain as the top layer of the tray is waterproof along with the core, the hardie isn't.

In these types of job you are trying to limit failure, for the sake of what it would cost to tank less than a square meter i don't know why you are dead set against the advice?

Anyhoo i've already advised all i can on it. I'm sure others will come along with similar advice

 

[DazJWood]

You need the tanking to displace the water that reaches the hardie, not bare hardie which would soak it up rather than displace it. Water will pass through the grout and reach it unless you go down the epoxy route.

In these types of job you are trying to limit failure, for the sake of what it would cost to tank less than a square meter i don't know why you are dead set against the advice?

Anyhoo i've already advised all i can on it. I'm sure others will come along with similar advice

Thanks for the advice. Lol I'm not dead set against tanking the area; I was merely questioning the need to do it.

 

[J Sid]

Slc is the route I'd take if I had to fix those tiles

 

[DazJWood]

Slc is the route I'd take if I had to fix those tiles

How would you maintain the fall to the drain with SLC? Thanks

 

[J Sid]

You need to work it as it sets. Not easy if not done before.
If you must do something you will find it easier to use tile adhesive.
With a notched trowel trowel floor with trowel size you need, 6mm, 8mm. When ribs are set enough infill teeth gaps to make a solid smooth finish.
Job done 😁

 

[DazJWood]

Been out looking at tiles again today to replace the original mosiacs.

Have found a square porcelain tile that's 160mm by 160mm. See below:

Would I need to envelope cut this rule to follow the fall of the tray or as it is 160mm would it be small enough to still follow the fall?

If I need to envelope cut them then could I rotate them and fit them as a diamond pattern where then it would follow the fall to two corners and be close to the other two corners of the shower (tray is 1200 by 900). I've probably not explained that very well but see below :

If you imagine I have cut the tile where the drain would be then maybe this would be an option to avoid envelope cuts.

Thanks in advance,

Daz

 

[DazJWood]

Can any one offer any guidance/ advice?