Discuss New Concrete Slab - Dilemma in the America area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

C

cornish_crofter

Apologies for the length of this. I know it’s a bit on the long side but....

I may have backed myself into a corner with this small wetroom that I am undertaking. But I’m looking for your views on what I’ve typed below please.

The whole area is approximately 2.7m long and 1.3m wide. The former will sit at the far end meaning that the screeded area will be 1300m wide x 1800mm long. The back wall of the room isn’t square, hence the former is going to be cut to shape and will ‘fill’ the otherwise useless area at the back of the room.

Having poured the concrete yesterday (Friday) and learning today that Mapai recommend leaving 7 weeks before tiling onto concrete, I have had to consider my options.

My original plan was:
1) Pour the concrete leaving a channel for the wetroom former waste to travel until it goes under the concrete. This has now been done. The slab is 5 inches thick.
2) Fit the former using a good flexible fast setting adhesive directly onto the concrete. Use the same material to back fill the channel for the waste as illustrated in the former instructions.
3) Screed the remainder of the floor and apply a tanking solution – I was thinking of the Weber kit for £40 odd at CTD
4) Tile the former then the floor.

However

1) Mapai are adamant that before tiling onto concrete I should wait 7 weeks. This apparently is due to the thermal shock that concrete undergoes during the curing process from the end of week 1 to the end of week 7. Failure to comply with this risks cracking of tiles. However I have been told by Mapai that tiling onto concrete before the first 5 days are up after laying the slab would beat the start of the thermal shock, thereby allowing the adhesive to fully cure before and (so far as I understand) hence be immune to the thermal shock. My view is that it could work for the former.

2) Mapai were also concerned that laying the screed onto concrete before the 7 weeks are up could also cause me problems with the screed decoupling with the concrete. They also quoted about 1 day per mm of screed for complete curing and drying times. For a 3 inch screed that’s 75 days!

3) BAL on the other hand were excelling the virtues of their Greenscreed. This is apparently a slow setting flexible tile adhesive. Apparently this can be used on one week old concrete, or 24 hour old screed. The only issue that the BAL guy seemed to see was the potential movement between the concrete and the screed during the first few weeks.

4) Hanson, who supplied the concrete, don’t seem at all perturbed about laying a screed on new concrete, even when I raised the issue about the curing process of concrete. The technical rep was of the view that screed on top of concrete slab was the way to go, and it is best to do this before the concrete dries out too much, which to my mind goes against waiting 7 weeks for the concrete to dry before laying a cement based adhesive onto it (since screed is also cement based). When I raised the issue of movement between the screed and concrete he was of the view that applying the screed as early as possible (but not while the concrete is green) was the best way to go, and differential shrinkage shouldn’t be an issue over such a small area of screed. He also reckoned that wetting the concrete or adding a bonding agent before the screed went down would help if it were too dry.

Hence, having taken all this on board I reckon I have a few options

1) Stop the job and wait 7 weeks to lay the former, then screed and wait longer to tile. I think the customer will think I’m taking the mick!

2) Just carry on regardless, after all it’s only a small slab and the screed is only 2 m square or so.

3) Lay the former quickly, before the first 5 days are up to get in before the thermal shock using a good flexible tile adhesive, then concentrate on laying up the screed across the rest of the room, tank then tile. Again it’s a small area and I am unlikely to get any problems with the screed cracking. The use of a mesh in the screed would further reduce that likelihood.

4) Similar to above, but wait a week and use the Greenscreed for the former, backfilling the waste channel with ordinary fast setting tile adhesive to strengthen the floor under the former. Then screed the rest of the floor and use the Greenscreed to tile the whole floor a day later. As far as waterproofing the floor is concerned, I could
a. Use SBR in the screed mix, making it a waterproof screed
b. Apply the Weber tanking kit to the new screed
c. Use the Ditra matting. I can get it for £10.50 plus VAT a metre. I understand that it is a waterproof decoupling membrane

Finally, am I worrying about this too much? After all it is only a small area. It’s not like it’s a 5m x 5m room.

What do you think?
 
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C

cornish_crofter

hi is it going to put anyone out if you leave the slab to dry

For 7 weeks, yes it will - big time.

Otherwise I would be happy to do that. During our own property renovation that is something I can accomodate. Unfortunately, long story, they have been waiting a while for this to be done.
 
J

jay

shame you didnt pour it all in one go but moisture is the problem the norm here is leave slab about 30 days before rendering ajax might be the one to talk to
 

Dan

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I think the quickest safest route out of all your options is to get the greenscreed from BAL and if you have issues in the future you've got it in writing off them that they advised it, maybe?
 
C

cornish_crofter

Couldn't really pour it in one go as I am putting in a former.

The idea was to put the former in then screed up to it. Would have probably worked fine if the slab wasn't new I suppose :oops:
 
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J

jay

I think the quickest safest route out of all your options is to get the greenscreed from BAL and if you have issues in the future you've got it in writing off them that they advised it, maybe?

might be your safest option drop Ajax a pm might help
 

kilty55

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dave was talking about a vapour membrane a while ago,dont know exactly its spec but i think you can tile quicker using it on screeds,give him a nudge crofter he may have the answer
 
D

DHTiling

Hugo... Hi mate..


Wow quite an issue hey!..

Ok.. Slurry coat the new concrete base.. then screed.. leave till able to walk on and then stick down Dural CI with an S2 slow set adhesive.. leave to dry.. this will cope with any shrinkage and curling, then the Dural Ci will do the vapour equalisation and waterproofing if you tape the seams as well..

Same with the former, slurry coat the base and then set in in place and cover with Dural Ci..
 
C

cornish_crofter

Hugo... Hi mate..


Wow quite an issue hey!..

Ok.. Slurry coat the new concrete base.. then screed.. leave till able to walk on and then stick down Dural CI with an S2 slow set adhesive.. leave to dry.. this will cope with any shrinkage and curling, then the Dural Ci will do the vapour equalisation and waterproofing if you tape the seams as well..

Same with the former, slurry coat the base and then set in in place and cover with Dural Ci..

Now I'm confused!

Dave - I don't actually understand most of what you said!

Slurry coat - with what? Cement slurry, PVA slurry? I assume a cement slurry

Screed, I think I can manage that 4:1 sand/cement mix

Dural CI - is that similar to the schluter Ditra matting? I can get the Ditra for just over £10 per metre. Ditra is what BAL suggested.

S2 slow set adhesive. OK that leaves out the fast setting. Would the BAL Greenscreed fit that description and can you give other examples please.

I'm sure I'm capable of doing what you advice - I just don't understand it :)

Finally, is my approach of sticking down the former with the BAL Greenscreed sound, or should I use a different adhesive for that? I don't mind leaving it a week or so. The concrete is taking time to go off completely because of the temperature. It's above the 2 degrees here but not much, so its initial dry is slow - should be hard in a few days but can sell the customer the idea of waiting a bit.

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
 
D

DHTiling

Soz mate tiler head on..:lol:

OK..

Firstly BAL will say Ditra.. kind of recommend each other but Dural is just as good and cheaper.. but Ditra will serve the purpose.

Ok Slurry coat.. SBR mixed with portland Cement or Rapid set.. screed onto the tacky coat..

S2 slow set.. Mapei Ultra flex mono is one but yes the green screed will suffice to bond the membrane with.

Then you can tile with any flexi adhesive on top of that..also using the membrane will keep efflorescence away from the tile adhesive bed and grout joints.

If using the ditra then use the kerdi band for the seams..( joints).. owt else just ask.
 

Ajax123

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Bin drinkin the Birthday wine so won't respond tonight but will do so tomorrow. The answers are probably straight forward but typin after the wine is not.........
 
C

cornish_crofter

Thank you Dave for clearing that up ;)

I'm no stranger to SBR, wonderful stuff! I use it as a bonding agent for render etc sometimes.

Going back to the former, am I OK to go with the proposed method of bedding it down with Greenscreed after the concrete's been down for a week?

Also, I was going to backfill the channel with normal fast setting adhesive. It's wider than it should be, really because I didn't have the fomer or the tray when the concrete went down. It's a good job to as the drain out of the trap is offset, not central to the trap. Had I gone narrow I would have had it in the wrong place :lol:

Furthermore, Am I right that the Dural Ci also tanks the floor? I am told that the Ditra does. This would then eliminate my having to buy a tanking kit for the floor.

Finally, although I've been steered towards the Greenscreed, one assumes the Mapai Ultra is cheaper? I've been quoted about £23 for the Greenscreed 15kg

Thanks for your help so far guys - really appreciated ;)
 

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