Electric UFH Loose wire ufh?

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Mathew2019

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Hi guys just a quick question. I have a suspended timber floor, and i am in the process of laying down 18mm floorboards in the kitchen with 6mm hardie backer overlay. I have 60x60 porcelain tiles. I have radiators set up already but as the tiles tend to get very cold I'm thinking of putting in loose wire electric ufh just to warm the tiles . My understanding is that it simply goes between the cement board and the tile adhesive. Am i missing something? Also in terms of tile warmth is there any feedback on the loose wire systems as they're pretty cost effective so just wanted some feedback

Thank you all
 
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The UFH will sit secured onto the cement board and then either tiled carefully directly over the top or the prefered method of using a 6-8mm Flexible SLC over the cables. If you're looking to only take the chill off the tiles then 100w/m2 would be suitable for you. 160w/m2 would provide you a primary heating source if you prefer. Cost is a hard one but a rough idea is a 5m2 area for 8 hours would cost 40p.
 
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The UFH will sit secured onto the cement board and then either tiled carefully directly over the top or the prefered method of using a 6-8mm Flexible SLC over the cables. If you're looking to only take the chill off the tiles then 100w/m2 would be suitable for you. 160w/m2 would provide you a primary heating source if you prefer. Cost is a hard one but a rough idea is a 5m2 area for 8 hours would cost 40p.
Thanks for your reply. Just a few more questions if you don't mind, is there any issue of the heat output causing movement in the timber floor and therefore causing tiles to crack?

Also, when i said cost effective i meant the actual kits are pretty cheap, I'm looking at around 15 sqm and some of the cheaper kits are costing around 350-500. Is there anything to look for?

Also do you know the general longevity of these type of systems?
 
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Thanks for your reply. Just a few more questions if you don't mind, is there any issue of the heat output causing movement in the timber floor and therefore causing tiles to crack?

Also, when i said cost effective i meant the actual kits are pretty cheap, I'm looking at around 15 sqm and some of the cheaper kits are costing around 350-500. Is there anything to look for?

Also do you know the general longevity of these type of systems?
If an insulation board is used then it will reflect the heat upwards therefore removing any problems that could occur.

Price is the same with every product, you pay for the quality of the product. Our product is made in Poland and we've supplied it for 16 years and we've never had a problem with a heating element.

We offer a life time warranty on our products.
 
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If an insulation board is used then it will reflect the heat upwards therefore removing any problems that could occur.

Price is the same with every product, you pay for the quality of the product. Our product is made in Poland and we've supplied it for 16 years and we've never had a problem with a heating element.

We offer a life time warranty on our products.
Is the insulation board a replacement for the cement board?
 
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Are you laying floorboards over joists, or plywood over floorboards that are already in position?
Depending on the answer a good solution would be to lay 10, 12 or 20mm Orbry backer boards over the floor and tape the joints. This will provide insulation which will reduce the cold coming up from the cavity and make the underfloor and radiator heating more efficient. The electric underfloor heating would then be placed on top.


 
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Are you laying floorboards over joists, or plywood over floorboards that are already in position?
Depending on the answer a good solution would be to lay 10, 12 or 20mm Orbry backer boards over the floor and tape the joints. This will provide insulation which will reduce the cold coming up from the cavity and make the underfloor and radiator heating more efficient. The electric underfloor heating would then be placed on top.


The 18mm floorboards are being screwed direct into the joists as we speak, and i intended on having the either 6mm ply / backerboards or membrane on top of this. The kitchen is attached to an extension so i have to keep height very minimal. In hindsight the builders could have done better levelling all round but this is what i have to work with now. I think 20mm would cause a huge step
 
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Is the insulation board a replacement for the cement board?
On top of your floor boards you can use a Tile Backerboard, 6 or 10mm which will act the same as a hardie backerboard and also strengthen your floor.
 
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On top of your floor boards you can use a Tile Backerboard, 6 or 10mm which will act the same as a hardie backerboard and also strengthen your floor.
So it would be fine to have floorboards screwed down to joists, 6mm backer boards, followed by the loose wire ufh, and tile directly over this
 
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So it would be fine to have floorboards screwed down to joists, 6mm backer boards, followed by the loose wire ufh, and tile directly over this
Yes, a 22mm Floorboard followed by ideally a 10mm backerboard with UFH on top and then tiles.
 

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