Large Format Tiles a few questions before I crack on - Tile Advice

[Daz_C]

Hi people,
I'm not exactly new to this forum as i have been floating around for a while picking up tips and learning from the Pro's I
And with that info and advice I did my first bit of tiling a few months ago, my bathroom. If I can i will post some pics up soon for you all to see but I must say I'm Well Chuffed with it !

Anyway to the project at hand - My bird has employed (the odd coffee now and again) me to tile the kitchen floor :whatchutalkingabout Were having a new kitchen so its all stripped out, I have overboarded the original timber floor and its now as solid as it will ever be but there is a very little bit of movement, no more than you'd expect from a timber floor I guess.
The tiles we have are Porcelain 600x600 polished white (not from B&Q)
I'm going to primer the timber just now, and use a flexible adhesive to lay the tiles on.
I'm using 1mm spacers between the tiles but when looking for a suitable grout they all say for grout thicknesses of 2mm and upwards. Will this be suitable for my needs or is there a specific grout for such a small joint ? I'm after a White Flexible Water Resistant Grout. Any ideas ?
Also after finishing is there anything I can do to prolong the cleanliness of the grout ? being white and in the kitchen.

Cheers Darren

 

[TilingLogistics]

My advice is be very very careful with a 1mm grout joint on such a large tile. 600 x 600 porcelain are extremely difficult to lay for a someone new and a lot different from smaller format tiles. One tiny error will trhrow the whole floor out and you have nowhere to go or correct it with 1mm.

British Standards say minimal 3mm grout gap for floors and in this case I think i would adhere to the standard . Especially given that the substrate is wood

Kev

 

[penno]

Putting a 1mm joint in those really isn't ideal mate, put in something like a 3mm or you may be asking for trouble. Use a decent quality grout, obviously will look dirty at times but it is a case of just looking after it and cleaning it when needed. Give it a good scrub when needed, if there are any tough grime marks etc you can buy grout cleaning products from most tile shops that will bring it up nicely.

 

[GazTech]

Hi Darren, open your joints up a bit 2mm minimun. A 1mm joint will cause you problems laying the tiles and has no integrity when grouted. What is the timber floor under your plywood and how thick is the ply. Usually no need for priming before tiling. White adhesive is needed if grouting in white and fila make a grout protector which will help stop white grout staining.....Gaz
BAL PTB (Pourable Thick Bed) Flexible White

A highly polymer modified, flexible, rapid-setting, water-resistant, frost-resistant floor tile adhesive, especially suitable for fixing tiles, including fully vitrified and porcelain tiles to low porosity backgrounds and bases. Sulphate-resistant, cement-based, pourable, thick-bed solid-bed floor tile adhesive suitable for fixing ceramic tiles, quarries, natural stone and terrazzo in interior and exterior situations. Its consistency makes it particularly suitable for fixing large tiles and those with profiled backs. Back-buttering is not necessary. Suitable for use on concrete, cement:sand screeds, ceramic/quarry tile/terrazzo/hard natural stone, plywood overlay, vinyl tiles/sheet, mastic asphalt. BS EN 12004 C2F Adhesive
BAL Superflex Wide Joint Grout white

A highly flexible, water and frost-resistant cement-based powder grout with built-in admixture specially designed for use in areas where increased flexibility and enhanced durability are required. Suitable for grouting tiles with joint widths up to 20mm. Suitable for interior and exterior locations on both wall and floor tiling. Ideal for grouting limited movement areas such as timber floors or heated screeds. Suitable for grouting in swimming pools. Conforms to BS EN 13888, Type C, Class G2.

 

[Daz_C]

Wow Speedy responses :yes:
Advice has been taken on board and 3mm it is then

Gaztech - The original (1970's) floor is Tongue and Groove timber around 1/2 inch thick. All in good condition. I've renailed it all using a paslode gun then put ontop 8'x4' sheets of 9mm WBP Plywood screwed at 200mm centres. Can't go any thicker as I've 2 doors off the kitchen which are dictating the height I can go.

Thanks Very much for all your quick responses Much appreciated. I'll be sure to drop some pics on here for you all to browse at.

 

[GazTech]

Wow Speedy responses :yes:
Advice has been taken on board and 3mm it is then

Gaztech - The original (1970's) floor is Tongue and Groove timber around 1/2 inch thick. All in good condition. I've renailed it all using a paslode gun then put ontop 8'x4' sheets of 9mm WBP Plywood screwed at 200mm centres. Can't go any thicker as I've 2 doors off the kitchen which are dictating the height I can go.

Thanks Very much for all your quick responses Much appreciated. I'll be sure to drop some pics on here for you all to browse at.

Daz...9mm falls below the requirements for standard flexible adhesives. Two part flexi is required if you wish to have manufacturers guarantee, 15mm minimum ply overlay is the British standard. If not using 2 part flexi, then overboard again with 6mm WBP ply ring nailed, and reduce your doors with a plane....Gaz

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Don't forget your pair of suction cup lifters these will suck to the face of the tile and help you with placement and save your back and fingers trying to get these large tiles flat with no lipping.

 

[andy-p]

i would use a 16/20mm u notched trowel on those suckers, screwfix sell em for a tenner !!

 

[Daz_C]

Daz...9mm falls below the requirements for standard flexible adhesives. Two part flexi is required if you wish to have manufacturers guarantee, 15mm minimum ply overlay is the British standard. If not using 2 part flexi, then overboard again with 6mm WBP ply ring nailed, and reduce your doors with a plane....Gaz

Thanks for the heads up Gaz with that.
Unfortunatly I've paid mees moneys and I'm takings mees chances now.
As with the manufacturers gaurantee I'd imagine that they try and find excuse after excuse so as not to admit there product is at fault if anything occured and it would possibly be more stressful than just biting the bullet and ripping it up and doing it again at my own cost ? (or is that just insurance companies ?:mad2
I did use 3/4 in the bathroom though !!!
Planeing the doors isn't a problem, its the Thresholds. I used 9mm so as it bought the tiles level with the threshold once bedded on, putting another 6mm on would then give me a step (all be it about 6mm) but I couldn't live with that.
I've laid most of it now and put abit of admixture in with the adhesive.
Just got the cuts to do now
And grout up.
Rains stopped play at the moment so looks like I might have the day off to get it finishes
Pics will be up for you to mooch at soon if your interested ?

Don't forget your pair of suction cup lifters these will suck to the face of the tile and help you with placement and save your back and fingers trying to get these large tiles flat with no lipping.

Wish you replied before I started !!! Ewwhh Me Back :lol:

Thanks Very Much For All Of Your Replies
Daz

 

[brian c]

Good advice given Gaz m8.

 

[DHTiling]

i would use a 16/20mm u notched trowel on those suckers, screwfix sell em for a tenner !!

You can of course just ask Dave @ tradetiler to get you one....i,m sure he should be able to lay his hands on a better quality one than what they sell...

 

[smurf21]

make sure you check the odd tile for adhesive coverage as 600 x 600 have slight concave to them sometimes just lift one now and again and look at the cover.

 

[GazTech]

make sure you check the odd tile for adhesive coverage as 600 x 600 have slight concave to them sometimes just lift one now and again and look at the cover.

With BAL PTB no need, full coverage is with every tile....Gaz