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OP
C

Concrete guy

yes, I confirm marc, mine when it was new was fine, a few chips, but now many more
But in Italy it costs € 59 and my work still after 3 or 4 years.
So the solution I tried to have no chips is this.
example of a 30mm hole.
mark the 30mm circle with a pencil, drill with 25mm bits,
use the tapered countersink up to the mark of the pencil.
clean the hole with 20mm of £ 100 without getting to the glaze.
I know it's a long job but it's the only solution I've found.
I guarantee that the conics do not make chips.
hqdefault.jpg

I've not seen these before.

This is an interesting conversation. As I explained before, many of these items are designed for stone and repurposed for use in tile (specifically for porcelain) so it creates some anomalies.

Most VB stone tooling is designed for use on variable speed machines. The speed range give control that isn't available on a regular grinder. So if you have tools that are chipping, try running them slower, you'll find a sweet spot at which the particular grit works better.

Also most of this stuff is designed to be used in stages, but it's something we've never fully embraced in the UK. Why would I buy three + bits if I can make to with one?

I'll use finger bits as an example - with examples of use in granite, which fundamentally is what these things are designed for.

We sell these in three grit levels:-

#30/40 is coarse, it's designed to enlarge a hole or open up an internal radius quickly with little thought for finish or chipping. So you'd use this to remove 3mm to 5mm of material but you'd stop 2mm to 3mm short of your finished line.

#70/80 is medium, you've use this to remove 1mm-2mm of material of after the #30/40. This takes you to within 0.5mm to 1mm of your finished line.

#140/180 - this comes in to play if you're going to see the edge that's been cut, or you're cutting a surface that's going to be polished.

So pay a bit more attention to grit numbers when looking at tools like this. It's quite important.

In reality, #30/40 grit is too coarse for porcelain, it'll be quick but aggressive. It's also the most common used grit on VB holesaws so that's why you get the breakout.

There's nothing to stop you slowing down VB holesaws or using them wet, but a drill driver tends to be a bit slow. A #30/40 VB holesaw will likely produce a cleaner hole cut at 6,000 rpm than it will at 10,000 to 12,000 rpm (standard grinder speed).

#70/80 and #140/180 are probably more useful with porcelain type products
 
OP
O

Old Mod

So pay a bit more attention to grit numbers when looking at tools like this. It's quite important.

Personally I do, but you’d still expect an item from montolit costing just shy of £100 to work.
The diamond coating is very fine and evenly spread too.
Very disappointing I must say.
 
OP
C

Concrete guy

Personally I do, but you’d still expect an item from montolit costing just shy of £100 to work.
The diamond coating is very fine and evenly spread too.
Very disappointing I must say.

What are running it in? A grinder?
 
OP
F

Flintstone

What about a vacuum brased hole cutter that’s a finer grit than the usual chippy type, do they exist ?
 
OP
C

Concrete guy

What about a vacuum brased hole cutter that’s a finer grit than the usual chippy type, do they exist ?

They exist, but the issue is they take longer to cut. The longer the cut, the more abrasion/heat and the shorter the lifespan.

I have a feeling the sigma or Montolit bits might be #40/50. It's worth having a look on the packing to check.
 
OP
W

Waluigi

Has anyone tried the Montolit Killer Gres?

They look like a Diamond sintered hole saw which is segmented.

Most of the VB holesaws I have seen and used tend to be fairly rough. Funnily enough the finger bits I just tested are very fine compared to the same brand of hole saw and cut much cleaner.
 
OP
O

Old Mod

What about a vacuum brased hole cutter that’s a finer grit than the usual chippy type, do they exist ?
Yeah they do, I have a worn out one. Trouble is don’t know who makes it and tool store I bought it from has gone now. It’s very kool cos you can replace the barrel as opposed to the whole thing.
If only I knew who made it!!!! :mad::D
 
OP
W

Waluigi

Another problem with the VB hole saws and chipping is that they are designed to be drilled and the grinder/drill whatever is moved in a circular motion whilst drilling to stop overheating and to clear dust.

I suppose if I want a perfect cut, I’ll use my Marcrist wet bits. Very rarely need a perfect cut.
 
OP
C

Concrete guy


Has anyone tried the Montolit Killer Gres?

They look like a Diamond sintered hole saw which is segmented.

Most of the VB holesaws I have seen and used tend to be fairly rough. Funnily enough the finger bits I just tested are very fine compared to the same brand of hole saw and cut much cleaner.

If it helps, from the image I'd say they were around the #70/80 grit mark, which is why you'll find them a lot cleaner/smoother. They should really be telling you what grit these are so have a look through the small print to see if it's in their specs.


I've just had a look at the specs on the Motolit Killer Gres. These seem to have been developed to solve the problem of 20mm thick Porcelain that's become quite fashionable for patios.

This stuff can be like kryptonite depending on the manufacture/density. It's now often referred to as UDM or UHM (Ultra Dense/Hard Material). Whilst being named porcelain, it's not the same as the 8mm/10mm stuff normally used.

That would probably be good for grade 5 stuff, but I imagine it could be quite aggressive. The step segment does two things, it aids waste material removal and helps cooling/expansion.
 
OP
I

Italy

Has anyone tried the Montolit Killer Gres?

They look like a Diamond sintered hole saw which is segmented.

Most of the VB holesaws I have seen and used tend to be fairly rough. Funnily enough the finger bits I just tested are very fine compared to the same brand of hole saw and cut much cleaner.
i
 

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