Discuss Is this a silly question? in the Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com

Jon329

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I'm probably asking a really silly question but here's my problem.

I've tiled a few rooms before and the way I start is to screw a piece of wood into the wall low down where the second row of tiles will start I make sure this is level with a spirit level so I have a straight and level foundation to start on and then when I've tiled the entire room I take the wood away and cut the lower tiles to fit. I don't like the idea of starting at the bottom as it will be difficult to ensure its level.

Now my method doesnt lend itself to a wetroom where I've tanked the wall as I don't want to compromise the seal by drilling holes for rawl plugs!. Where would you professionals begin?

Walls covered in ardex WPC, tiles are 300x600 porcelain. I have a laser level to assist

Thanks!

20190412_112751.jpg 15556006902793738253534196839085.jpg
 

widler

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With that I’d cut the bottom row in and just tile from floor .
But if you do put battens on, when you take off fill the hole with silicone , or just patch it up with tape and paste, it’s exactly the same as covering screwheads or around pipes
 

Mark W Smith

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As wilder says, nothing wrong with doing it either way as long as your tiles are level...I do use laths...not on commercial work as I mark a datum line after using a laser level.....but in bathrooms or wet rooms most of the time I do as I find it works fine in smaller areas.....then drop the bottom course in last ......just double check your first course you fix on top of your wooden lath as you may need to just tweet with some wedges as a wooden lath is never perfect.....if your walls are perfect and your adhesive is has an extremely good non slip properties the use a datum line & work down but I can’t remember the last time I tiled a straight wall or floor for that matter....good luck
 

Localtiler

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Personally I always cut the bottom row in and work off it, not used battons for a long time, but whatever works for you is ok, fill the holes if you make any.
 

Andy Rhodes

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You could always gauge down from your datum line and set up your laser level at that mark ,thus cutting your bottom row first then work up & if you want to you could always check with a level just to air on the side of caution
 
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Jon329

Jon329

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Thanks for the replies, I've cut the bottom ones and they seem to be pretty level when using the laser level so sure it will be fine, I'll stick them on tomorrow and find out!

Thanks again!
 

jcrtiling

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Got to admit I seldom use mine these days due to the tiles I am fixing . Generally tiling up from the floor .
 

pdc

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I usually set a datum line with the laser and tile from the floor. By the time I've got to the "staring at the wall from sitting on the bog" height I've generally managed to get it reasonably straight.
 
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Jon329

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Well I've finally made a start, and very happy with how level it is. Only question I now have is should I have left an expansion gap between the floor and wall tiles? Looking online people seem to say you only need an expansion gap for commercial large scale jobs or natural stone, this is just porcelain. Thought I'd best ask before I do the rest of the room. I used to put a tile spacer between it but decided not to after looking online this time

20190419_155429.jpg
 

pdc

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You should have a gap between wall and floor.
 
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Jon329

Jon329

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Yeah I'll be using silicone. I've only done these 4 tiles above the mosaics hopefully they'll be alright, I'll use the spacers on the rest. Theres some fluctuation in the mosaics anyway so probs got a few mm in places
 
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  • :roladex:
  • :rotatinglight:
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  • :trumpet:
  • :vhs:
  • :videocamera:
  • :videogame:
  • :violin:
  • :windchime:
  • :wrench:

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