Discuss Finishing stages of self build.... Question on anti crack options and Adhesive in the Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com

craig782

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5
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Dorset
Mapei Tile Adhesive
Hi Guys, first of all thanks for the wealth of info on here.

I have tried searching to find answers of which I found some but not conclusive

As the Tile suggests , just in final stages of completing my self build forever home and have a few questions on the tiling of the downstairs

Currently have 150m2 of underfloor heated cement based screed throughout the ground floor

As I sprayed the walls and ceiling and other dust etc going to clean screed as best can and prime the floor with an acrylic primer.

Tiles chosen are Porcelain wood effect planks 150mm x 600 x 10mm

So questions if you would be so kind .....

Pretty set on using a Anti crack / Decoupling membrane which most likley to be Durabase but have had the much more cost effective Idrobuild thrown in the mix but can not seem to find much information or comparisons on them. Any preference here?


Secondly the minefield of adhesives ...
I am looking at Mapei Keraquick with the Latex Plus. This is the recommended adhesive by the UFH manufacturer but thats as far as it goes... Is there anything that would be recommended / suggest other than this ?


Thirdly... Adhesive thicknesses between layers
Using a durabase it is recommended using a 4x4 notched so assuming this will give roughly a 2mm layer of adhesive
Thickness of layer for tile above Durabase? I was planning on using a 12mm notched and skimming the back of tile but is this correct with this format of tile and ontop the Durabase?

I need to check my calculations as I have it using much more adhesive than one supplier is quoting ... so would really appreciate any advise on the above so can check.

Also sorry .. would you recommend a 3mm grout gap for the above ?


Many thanks, realise thats alot there but once sat down and got carried away ...
 

Localtiler

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Craig,
A couple of things for starters
How long has the screed been down and is it a pumped screed ? The underfloor heating must be commissioned before you can do any tiling.

With regards to crack mat, I haven’t heard of that brand, but I would suggest you look at Tilemaster antifracture Mat. Very thin less than 1mm vs about 6mm for dural Mat, and will use much less adhesive.
I would look at using slow set adhesive on that area and save your self any additional stresses!
 
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craig782

New to TilersForums.com
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5
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Dorset
Thanks local,

Had a very quick look as the Tilemaster it looks a similar product to the Idrobuild one. Are these thin anti fractures as good as the Durabase for function and longevity ?

Screed is LoPro from NuHeat (Mapei rebranded) cement based UFH screed poured myself. Been down since February and has been run and commissioned last few weeks.

Yeah I think thats good advise on slower set. To be honest was just following recommended UFH guidelines but obviously many adhesives will do the same.. Any recommendations of adhesive and thickness for these tiles would be welcomed

Thanks again
 

antonio

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Trusted Advisor
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italy
Didnt @antonio say that this mat wasnt available in italy as it didnt pass euro test standards . Please correct me if I am wrong
yes, but it's ok for standard bs.
I only reported what they told me the kerakoll local agent.
in the UNI standards nothing is written for antifratture mats.
it is written only; we recommend using them for large formats.
 
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craig782

New to TilersForums.com
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5
Location
Dorset
Thanks guys..

Ok so in your honest opinion is the Idrobuild etc as good as the Durabase / Ditra type mats ?

Were planning on living here for good so although budget is key I dont mind if its worth the extra

Also if using anti Fracture what thickness should I be allowing for in adhesive above the mat for 150x600x10mm porcelain?

Is it worth going to a S2? or would the Tilemaster Setaflex S1 be a good route to go down ?

Thanks again
 

Localtiler

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you Don’t need s2 for this job and I fact you shouldn’t use s2 with ditra or dural. Those two cavity mats will allow for more movement than a thin crack mat. A 12mm trowel will give you around 3 mm bed thickness with that tile size.
 
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craig782

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5
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Dorset
Tilemaster setaflex it is , thanks :thumbsup:

Ok so levelling ??? Any advice here? Reckon im looking at circa 6000 clips, any recommended type or cost friendly place to purchase

Thanks in advance
 

RayTheTiler

Tilers' Arms Member
Messages
1,102
Location
home
if you use leveling clips make the addy a bit more runny and 12 mm notch will do but for a solid bed so heat passes better a screeding pin bar set at 10 mm and scratch a 3 mm trowell over back of the tile
 

david mccullough

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northern ireland
don't tile the floors for about a year. let any cracks appear then use the decoupling matting over the cracks, i left my floors 2 years and two years after tiling no cracks have appeared{40mm poured screed and ufh} i would recommend using slow set adhesive as well as it gives you time plus it sticks better than fast set. and as above tls and 10-12mm trowel and back butter the tiles as well.
 
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craig782

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Messages
5
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Dorset
Was hoping to tile under the kitchen units which I hope to install End Sept/Oct but actually I could leave rest of it a little longer for the ground floor, so thats not a bad idea thanks :thumbsup:.

As long as get one bedroom/ensuite and kitchen sorted before this winter will keep her happy , what else do you need anyways :confused:??
 

jcrtiling

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Salisbury
Was hoping to tile under the kitchen units which I hope to install End Sept/Oct but actually I could leave rest of it a little longer for the ground floor, so thats not a bad idea thanks :thumbsup:.

As long as get one bedroom/ensuite and kitchen sorted before this winter will keep her happy , what else do you need anyways :confused:??
If its dry and if the ufh has been commissioned its ready
 

david mccullough

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57
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northern ireland
cracks didn't appear in my floor until after the first winter with the underfloor heating working. the floor was one of the first things i did, it's a primary school conversion, so the floor was installed 18 months before moving in, it usually takes a winter of living in to dry the house out,
 
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  • :gun:
  • :hammer:
  • :hearnoevil:
  • :heartssuit:
  • :hourglass:
  • :hourglasssand:
  • :inbox:
  • :incomingenvelope:
  • :iphone:
  • :isakayalantern:
  • :jackolantern:
  • :japanesedolls:
  • :japanesegoblin:
  • :japaneseogre:
  • :jokercard:
  • :key:
  • :kiss:
  • :knife:
  • :ledger:
  • :leftmagnify:
  • :lightbulb:
  • :link:
  • :lock:
  • :lockink:
  • :loudspeaker:
  • :loveletter:
  • :mailclosedflaglower:
  • :mailclosedflagup
  • :mailopenflaglower:
  • :mailopenflagup:
  • :megaphone:
  • :memo:
  • :microphone:
  • :microscope:
  • :minidisc:
  • :mobilecalling:
  • :moneybag:
  • :moneywings:
  • :moviecamera:
  • :moyai:
  • :musickeyboard:
  • :mute:
  • :newspaper:
  • :notebook:
  • :notebookdecorative:
  • :nutbolt:
  • :openbook:
  • :openfile:
  • :openlock:
  • :orangebook:
  • :outbox:
  • :package:
  • :pagefaceup:
  • :pagecurl:
  • :pager:
  • :paperclip:
  • :partypooper:
  • :pencil:
  • :performingarts:
  • :personalcomputer:
  • :pill:
  • :pinedecoration:
  • :pileofpoop:
  • :postalhorn:
  • :postbox:
  • :pushpin:
  • :radio:
  • :rightmagnify:
  • :roladex:
  • :rotatinglight:
  • :roundpushpin:
  • :rugby:
  • :satellite:
  • :sax:
  • :scissors:
  • :scroll:
  • :seat:
  • :seenoevil:
  • :shower:
  • :skis:
  • :skull:
  • :slotmachine:
  • :smoking:
  • :soccerball:
  • :spaceinvader:
  • :spades:
  • :speaknoevil:
  • :speaker:
  • :speakerone:
  • :speakerthree:
  • :speechballoon:
  • :straightruler:
  • :sweatdrops:
  • :syringe:
  • :telephonereceiver:
  • :telescope:
  • :television:
  • :tennisball:
  • :thoughtballoon:
  • :ticket:
  • :toilet:
  • :triangularruler:
  • :triangularflag:
  • :trophy:
  • :trumpet:
  • :vhs:
  • :videocamera:
  • :videogame:
  • :violin:
  • :windchime:
  • :wrench:
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