Discuss Expansion gaps and transitions!! in the Canada area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

adosphere

DIY Tiler
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HI all, hoping for some help in terms of expansion and transition.

I am tiling around 70sqm of floor in 600x600 porcelain. Tiling throughout, various spaces (utility, Kitchen, Hall, through room). I have some questions around some transitions and edges that I am hoping for some advice on. Thanks in advance.

1. Have new sliding doors with an aluminium bottom slider. Edge of the cill is currently 20mm above floor (perfect!) and therefore I want to tile to the top of the cill. IS there any issue with tiling almost onto the cill (leaving a 2mm gap for grout) Elsewhere around the edges I am leaving a 8-10mm gap to be covered by skirting.

2. One particularly problematic transition I have is between the screed floor and existing wood hall floor. Hall floor is around 4mm higher WITHOUT any prep. I have resigned myself that I will need a transition and expansion gap. What prep would be best to reduce height jump, and has anyone got any suggestions about how to create a really professional height adjustment and expansion combined! I was going to try below, but it is a step, not expansion.!

https://www.tilersforums.com/attachments/upload_2018-4-4_20-8-9-png.97980/

Some info which might be useful in terms of what I am doing.

10mm Porcelain, on newly laid Screed floor (flat as can be!). Laitance removed, moisture down to below 1% and well below in parts and two weeks to go. Will be putting a Mapei Mapetex anti-fracture membrane down with Keraquick/PVC. Using Keraflex adhesive (the slower stuff) largely because I am not a pro and want a little more time so I don't make ****-ups. Should be fine as no-one will walk on it for at least 24 hours in the areas I tile.
 
J

J Sid

Has the ufh been commissioned, needs to be.
You say two weeks to go? Till what? And how have you tested it, you say 1% moisture.

If you not a professional I'd recommend getting a rep from a adhesive supplier to test floor for you and use there adhesive. I know bal do this service and tile master, probably others.
 

adosphere

DIY Tiler
Reaction score
2
Has the ufh been commissioned, needs to be.
You say two weeks to go? Till what? And how have you tested it, you say 1% moisture.

If you not a professional I'd recommend getting a rep from a adhesive supplier to test floor for you and use there adhesive. I know bal do this service and tile master, probably others.

Thanks Julian. Yes - UFH commissioned and on. Have gradually raised UFH temp to 45deg and held it there for now around 2 weeks. Tested with meter, although not Tradex CME which I was considering doing and not 100% convinced of the meters calibration.

2 weeks until I need to tile the floor given kitchen installation date.
 
J

J Sid

Ok
Leave a larger expansion joint against sliding doors, 6mm with a colour matched silicon won't be noticed.
It'll be fine using the profile you posted as long as it isn't butted up to your wooden floor. Sit over the edge or if butted up leave 6mm gap between tile edge and metal profile and use a colour matched silicon rather the grouting this joint.
Put a movement joint between each room
 

adosphere

DIY Tiler
Reaction score
2
Ok
Leave a larger expansion joint against sliding doors, 6mm with a colour matched silicon won't be noticed.
It'll be fine using the profile you posted as long as it isn't butted up to your wooden floor. Sit over the edge or if butted up leave 6mm gap between tile edge and metal profile and use a colour matched silicon rather the grouting this joint.
Put a movement joint between each room


Thanks Julian - very helpful. I think Mapei do the colour matched silicon as well, so will investigate this.
 
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Silicone movement joints are ok short term but look grubby after six months ...I would use Schluter’s perimeter and intermediate profiles. ..many colours and does not deteriorate like silicone making you install look better for longer.
 

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