Discuss Everbuild Aquaseal or hydro ban or other? in the Tanking and Wetrooms Forum area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)
The ever build one is awful, doesn't cover properly and takes an age to dry. Hydro ban, although I haven't used it myself, is meant to be very good. It doesn't need tapes and is crack bridging. The big price difference is the same as ever, you get what you pay for.
As harry says you get what you pay for . You should look at this at a percentage of your overall job price and what it will cost if it has to be redone .
How about Ardex WPC? It's about £60 and it looks like you mix some powder with some liquid and paint it on. My walls are very rough render so it will be hard to brush it into all the surface pits.
If there is even a pinprick then moisture can build up behind the tanking so I am thinking it may do more harm than good if not done right.
I'm still not sure it is really necessary. In this case it will only be for an electric shower over a bath. The walls are brick covered with cement render. It was done ages ago but I vaguely remember the builders doing several coats and mixing SBR into the render. They may also have applied a slurry to the wall before rendering but I am unsure.
Is the main purpose of tanking to stop the substrate disintegrating from damp? I dont think bricks will disintegrate nor the render.
The only other reason I can think of is that the grout will take longer to dry between showers and may grow mould more easily. Am I on the right lines here?
Best practice is to tank .
Sbr is not an effective waterproofer .
If they put a slurry on the walls that would of been to keep moisture out of your house ( you did mention damproofers ) .
Check with ardex weight capacity . Yes it's a good product and it's up to you to make sure there are no pinpricks . Dont see why there should be if applied correctly.
But it seems apparent you want us to tell you its ok to prime with sbr and it's cement so you won't have any problems .
It's your house
It's your choice
I want to get the job done right but not cause more problems over doing it. The weight factor was one thing I'm concerned of as my tiles are 10mm thick porcelain. They will stick solid straight to the render but a layer of rubbery stuff might be a weak point.
I don't mind the cost or extra hassle. It's more about leaving well enough alone vs trying to make it perfect at risk of screwing it up.
What is the worst that will happen underneath the tiles if I go straight onto the render and some moisture gets in? Bearing in mind it is only an electric shower and the bulk of the water will run into the bath. Once I understand that I can weigh up one risk over another.
Pros who do it day in day out have the experience to know things I have no clue about!
Ardex wpc’s weight limit is the same as the background you apply it to so in theory it doesn’t have one.
S&c render isn’t moisture sensitive so moisture won’t affect it. More importantly how do you intend to deal with the joint between the bath and the wall as this is where your weakness will be.
The tiles will come down the wall onto the rim of the bath with a (2mm gap). Then seal it with good quality silicone. Making sure the silicone is pressed deep into the joint.
I know S&C render will not be damaged by a little moisture, nor will the bricks so I am still not sure what potential problem I am trying to prevent by tanking. I can only think the grout might not dry out so fast.
Moldy grout is the only thing I can think of but there will be very good ventilation.
Has anyone seen any problems down the line with tiling straight onto render in a wet situation. E.g. when ripping out an old bathroom done this way, what did you see behind the tiles?
I once lived in a place with a shower bath where the tiles only came up 18inches above the bath and the rest of the wall was protected only by silk emulsion. That took years before it started peeling and there was no massive damage to the plasterboard.
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