Discuss Best blade for porcelain cutting in the Tile Cutters and Tiling Tools area at TilersForums.com

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Any recommendations for a blade for cutting a lot of 16mm porcelain tiles, in a bridge cutter?

I read that Marcrist CK850 is a good blade? A 200mm one is nearly £80.
 
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A montolit DNA is a very good blade

Our sponsor @Tile Fix Direct has some cheaper 200mm wet blades, or at the other end you have the DNA

42B16BB0-A3DA-46BC-AA95-05D9C6CC23A5.jpeg63DD6242-1909-470E-91EB-D723CD0DEDB9.jpeg
 
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So a quick google found a tile tool supplier, (can I name them? T.T.) with blades by Rubi at £44, Marcrist at £71 and Montolit at £125, so nearly double each time.

Is the montolit going to run for more than 3 times longer than a Rubi?

The montolit has a segmented edge, is that an advantage?
 

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Its not just about how long something lasts , it's about quality of cut and how much faster one blade will cut compared to another after all time is money . There are tilers on this page that will of tried blades and thrown them away because they are not happy with the cut .
 

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Its not just about how long something lasts , it's about quality of cut and how much faster one blade will cut compared to another after all time is money . There are tilers on this page that will of tried blades and thrown them away because they are not happy with the cut .
I usually give gifts, I don't throw them away ;)
 
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Well today we got through 2 blades, ATS Turbo. Cheap at £30 but only getting 21 x 600mm cuts per blade, with the last cut taking 3 times longer than the first cut.

Montolit blade on order, hope to get a Marcrist turbo viper tomorrow so we can keep on going...
 
C

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We've had one other customer with the same symptom Richard. He'd already been through the expensive branded blades and was trying ours as he'd run out of options, but still ours didn't last.

After a number of conversations with him we figured out the product he was cutting, although described as porcelain, behaved more like a fully vitrified glass as it was so heavily compressed.

He solved the problem by dressing the blades he'd already bought.

The anatomy of a blade is diamond pressed into a metal matrix around the perimeter of a steel disc. The metal matrix is as important as the diamond in that it's matched to the product which is being cut. As the blade cuts, the metal slowly wears against the product and releases new diamond to do the cutting.

If there's not enough abrasion from the product the blade appears to dull and slow down, it's not exposing new diamond. This is why in your case the final cut took 3 times the first cut. The metal part of the matrix is not wearing, it's overheating and glazing over, in doing so it "locks" in the new diamond content and stops working.

Dressing the blade wears aware some of the metal matrix and exposes new diamond, this can generally be done with something abrasive like sandstone, concrete or a dressing block specifically designed for the job. You might find with your particular porcelain you're having to do this every 10 or 12 cuts to keep the blade running at optimum performance (whatever brand it may be).

It's worth trying before you throw more money at branded blades and risk the same problem.

Your batch of porcelain is an unusual thickness at 16mm. What brand is it and where did you buy it? It's good for us to know if we have a customer come across the same product/problem.

Example of blade dressing here:- What is a Dressing Stick and How Do You Use it on Diamond Tools - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-jFJd07yTA
 
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We've had one other customer with the same symptom Richard. He'd already been through the expensive branded blades and was trying ours as he'd run out of options, but still ours didn't last.

After a number of conversations with him we figured out the product he was cutting, although described as porcelain, behaved more like a fully vitrified glass as it was so heavily compressed.

He solved the problem by dressing the blades he'd already bought.

The anatomy of a blade is diamond pressed into a metal matrix around the perimeter of a steel disc. The metal matrix is as important as the diamond in that it's matched to the product which is being cut. As the blade cuts, the metal slowly wears against the product and releases new diamond to do the cutting.

If there's not enough abrasion from the product the blade appears to dull and slow down, it's not exposing new diamond. This is why in your case the final cut took 3 times the first cut. The metal part of the matrix is not wearing, it's overheating and glazing over, in doing so it "locks" in the new diamond content and stops working.

Dressing the blade wears aware some of the metal matrix and exposes new diamond, this can generally be done with something abrasive like sandstone, concrete or a dressing block specifically designed for the job. You might find with your particular porcelain you're having to do this every 10 or 12 cuts to keep the blade running at optimum performance (whatever brand it may be).

It's worth trying before you throw more money at branded blades and risk the same problem.

Your batch of porcelain is an unusual thickness at 16mm. What brand is it and where did you buy it? It's good for us to know if we have a customer come across the same product/problem.

Example of blade dressing here:- What is a Dressing Stick and How Do You Use it on Diamond Tools - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-jFJd07yTA
Hi ATS, Thanks for that info! Very interesting. I have actually emailed some close up photos to alan at ATS.

I will try dressing the blade to see what happens.

The diameter has definately not worn down at all.

You can feel the cutting edge getting worse after about 3 600mm cuts. The first goes through like there's nothing there. After the third cut, you start to notice that there is a slight resistance. After 20 cuts, the cut takes forever.

Thanks for the info. I will post an update tomorrow if the dressing is successful. I have three ATS blades to recover!
 
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Forgot to say, the tiles are Brava Greco. (Greco being the colour). Supplied by Stone Zone in Dorset.
 
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So I assume a Rubi Cleaning Block N is a dressing stick?

Can I use a bit of brick/block/breeze block to get me out of trouble, while I track down a dressing stick?
 
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I'm using an old metal grinding disk to de-glaze the blades. Seems to work ok.
 
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open the diamond layer on the disk. conveniently angle grinder with abrasive disc for metal. turn on perpendicular. without water !.
 
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Better late than never, I believe this thema never gets old.

I have a Montolit SCX200 DNA series cutting disc running on the 2011 Montolit Brooklyn.
Never let me down even while cutting a really tough porcelain. Cuts like a dream from the beginning to it's (metal) end. Almost impossible to get it burned, it just wears down faster if you push it too fast. Not the cheapest option to go, however still cheaper than screw up a couple of expensive tiles in my opinion. I think it should cut trough roughly 1km of tiles with no problems.

I've tried a couple of other options, one of them was Rubi Viper series cutting disc.
First problem occurs when trying to fit it on a Montolit Brooklyn cutting machine, it is thicker at the middle and hard to center it.
Secondly it was cutting excellent from the beginning, at one point it started to rip off the top layer from tiles, even tho I was careful not to burn it.

Since I am always open to try new products, I am searching for opinions around here, I think I will give a Marcrist a go in the future.
 

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