Not a good job at all, with a gap like that under the units the tile should finish up to the underside of the cabinet, poor and lazy setting out I'm afraid. Hopefully they didn't charge you much for it.
Please contribute to this thread if you have any new information or can even just reiterate what has been said already. :)
Cement boards, you want to ensure you have a solid base, fix any bounce or movement on your chipboard if you have any before you lay down your cement boards.
Looks like you've taken your eye off the ball mate, always check and make sure you're keeping all tiles square to your setting out line when tightening clips up, flat is what you want but also for all grout lines to line up đź‘Ť
Hi, forget what your thinking with silicone, regrout the area of concern. Get yourself to a local tile shop and ask for a grout sealer, you spray it on after you grout and it protects it from staining etc, you'll need to apply it every so often especially as it's a shower area. Follow the...
I wasn't even aware you can get 22mm nomore ply mate.
When it's a timber subfloor like plywood or chipboard I always use a cement board of some sort on top of it, gives me better peace of mind, I'd rather put in the little bit extra labour.
Poor decision by the tiler to carry on the install, it usually warns you on the box not to lay them brick bond or what you can do is use a levelling system which will prevent lippage. Certain lighting can make these situations look a lot worse also but blame is on the tiler here and you are...
If you are a newbie to tiling then I would use clips, plank tiles can be bowed so you're probably best.
Read the instructions on the box as it might state not to lay them in a half bond. Use slow set flexible adhesive and minimum 10mm trowel
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